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just did a quick 4wp 3 inch lift, their in house brand, until my real lift shows up.Which lift did you go with?
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just did a quick 4wp 3 inch lift, their in house brand, until my real lift shows up.Which lift did you go with?
Right?? Not my style, but I read the whole thread for the comments. I'm new to the forum, and I thought 'so far, hate and roasts. Ok then..'Firstly, the bronc looks good. You do you
Secondly, I'm mainly here for the comments. People have no chill. LOL
Check out the Bill Stroppe thread, 53 straight positive comments, when I read it, up over 70 now. Sometimes you swing and miss, sometimes you hit a Home run.Right?? Not my style, but I read the whole thread for the comments. I'm new to the forum, and I thought 'so far, hate and roasts. Ok then..'
I'll check it out, thanks!Check out the Bill Stroppe thread, 53 straight positive comments, when I read it, up over 70 now. Sometimes you swing and miss, sometimes you hit a Home run.
I didn’t mean as big of rims / tires as OP. And probably some poke is required. Just saying flareless and min poke / pizza cutters is more original to the bronco.
LOL!! Bro you are on a different level!!! We are talking about mostly daily drivers that may want to squeeze a 37” tire to have a hell of a good time on the weekend going through most any obstacle imaginable………..You come in here referencing a quarter million dollar desert runner truck!!!! LOL. There is nothing wrong with a lift for what most of the guys here use their trucks for.I’m glad you like your Bronco OP! Enjoy the hell out of it while Ford makes the rest of us first 24 hr reservations wait!
Real lift? Instead build a suspension and don’t go by lift.
Smoother and or softer does not equal better.
Roll Center - Both front and rear suspensions have a Roll Center. This is an imaginary point around which the body of the car will rotate in a turn. The attachment points of the suspension components determine the Roll Center.
Roll Axis - A line between the front & rear Roll Centers.
CG (Center of Gravity) - The center point of the vehicle's mass.
Understeer - When the front tires lose traction first.
Oversteer - When the rear tires lose traction first.
Neutral Steer - The ideal balance when the front & rear tires gradually give up traction at an equal rate.
Spring Rate - Expressed in pounds per inch, it is the force necessary to compress the spring, i.e. a 200 lb spring requires 200 lbs to compress it 1 inch, 400 lbs to compress it 2 inches, etc.
Motion Ratio - Specifically we usually refer to the relationship between the motion of the wheel and the motion of the spring; i.e. If the spring is half the distance from the control arm pivot as the wheel is, the motion ratio relative to the wheel is .5 to 1.
Wheel Rate - The combined effect of spring rate, motion ratio, friction and/or binding of other suspension components measured at the wheel
Roll Bind - Any binding of suspension components that occurs as the body of the car leans over in a turn
Roll Steer - Generally refers to a steering effect on the rear axle as the car leans over in a corner. Caused by the rear control arms pivoting around their forward mounting point, drawing the axle forward as the arm moves up or down.
Bumpsteer - Toe change as the suspension moves up & down
Ackerman - Or in other words Toe out in turns. When turning the inside tire must turn more than the outer tire because it is turning on a smaller radius
Camber - Expressed in degrees, it is how much the tire leans in or out
Caster - The forward inclination of the spindle or strut - like the forks on a bicycle
Toe - The difference in the distance between the leading and trailing edge
Every time you change one measurement you change most if not all measurement. All go into the handling of the vehicle which creates the ride quality.
Exactly
I care nada about lift, I want suspension travel. You can tell the difference between a vehicle that is simply lifted and one built for more travel.
This last one, the press release did not mention lift. It mentioned what’s below:
Compared to the four-door Badlands series Bronco, the system adds 55.1% more front suspension travel (15.8 inches total) and 58.6% more at the rear (17.4 inches).
Question because I don’t have my B yet. How do the mudflats mount? If I go flareless, can the mudflats be mounted still? I’d think so. Not sure it would look good though.Gotta agree. I put mud flaps on my build for a reason -- not to be a nuisance to people around me. Don't act surprised when you put yourself out there for possible criticism and then receive it.
Never said anything was wrong with it. Just stated the basic lift will not give the ride the oem suspension does. There’s a reason why manufacturers spend millions in R&D and engineering and years testing different suspension configurations.LOL!! Bro you are on a different level!!! We are talking about mostly daily drivers that may want to squeeze a 37” tire to have a hell of a good time on the weekend going through most any obstacle imaginable………..You come in here referencing a quarter million dollar desert runner truck!!!! LOL. There is nothing wrong with a lift for what most of the guys here use their trucks for.
Am I the only one that thinks flareless looks awful? And flaps on a flareless Bronco/Jeep look akin to the early 70’s vehicle with oversized flaps and curb feelers.Question because I don’t have my B yet. How do the mudflats mount? If I go flareless, can the mudflats be mounted still? I’d think so. Not sure it would look good though.
To each their own. I personally think it looks pretty cool. Definitely like seeing different ideas, rather than the same look. The body itself has a curved body contour around wheel wells. I would be concerned about flipping up rocks and chipping the sides. Hopefully that doesn’t happen. I had to add mud flaps on my 2020 Jeep Gladiator because the tires Nitto Graplers definitely are rock grabbers!!!Never said anything was wrong with it. Just stated the basic lift will not give the ride the oem suspension does. There’s a reason why manufacturers spend millions in R&D and engineering and years testing different suspension configurations.
I’m also stating that suspension that increases travel even if it does not increase lift by the same amount(4 inches more suspension travel but only 2.5 inches of actual lift) is far better than the aftermarket lift kits.
Am I the only one that thinks flareless looks awful? And flaps on a flareless Bronco/Jeep look akin to the early 70’s vehicle with oversized flaps and curb feelers.
Never said anything was wrong with it. Just stated the basic lift will not give the ride the oem suspension does. There’s a reason why manufacturers spend millions in R&D and engineering and years testing different suspension configurations.
I’m also stating that suspension that increases travel even if it does not increase lift by the same amount(4 inches more suspension travel but only 2.5 inches of actual lift) is far better than the aftermarket lift kits.
Am I the only one that thinks flareless looks awful? And flaps on a flareless Bronco/Jeep look akin to the early 70’s vehicle with oversized flaps and curb feelers.
Screaming in pain, trust me.OP how is your CV angle with this lift? Would you mind sharing some pics of it?
Actually they do. However softness of the ride is not their main concern. Braking accelerating handling rotation rebound on road off road climb descent durability safety litigation warranty are just a few of the things they need to design a suspension for and against.One would really like to think the manufacturers of mass produced vehicles spend huge sums of time and money on R&D to give us the best possible ride from the get go, but it ain't so. They produce a very nice product to fit the greatest number of people at a favorable price point.
If you are happy with the OEM suspension, keep it and enjoy it. It's great. Just don't tell yourself it's better than what the aftermarket can provide.
Actually they do. However softness of the ride is not their main concern. Braking accelerating handling rotation rebound on road off road climb descent durability safety litigation warranty are just a few of the things they need to design a suspension for and against.
After market generally fixes one And to hell with everything while not backing up there work.
Ford signature engine sign off test is running it full throttle for 300+ hours straight. All the manufacturers do similar things, the aftermarket does nothing like this.
Sure a $50k suspension will feel great off road at 100mph but it will be crap/too soft every day on the street.
I may join you on 20’s just for spite!Love it. But I'll bet you $18 I evoke more yuck emojis than you...38x13.5 Ridge Grapplers on 20x12 -51 Arkon Roosevelts. The 20's alone will maroon me to the deepest desolated pits of this forum.