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Hossfire

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Clubs
 
As you are all aware, the standard audio system is lacking, especially if you spend any time with the top and doors off and actually enjoy music. It is subpar for a 2021 vehicle in any price range. Here is what I did to improve. First I tried to take the inexpensive way out and installed the Infinity 4" REF-4032CFX speakers front and rear. This did yield an improvement in sound quality and a minor volume improvement. Back in the 90's I was really into car audio and did some decent installs, so I decided to go all in and give our ride the sounds it deserves for true top off enjoyment. Here is what I have now:

Infinity Reference REF-4030CFX (4 of them)
Rockford Fosgate P1675-S 6 3/4 components
Wave Tech link 4 line out converter
Rockford Fosgate T1000X5ad 5 channel amp
JL Audio CS112LG-TW3 12" Sub in sealed box
T-Spec 4 ga. wiring and RCAs

Rather than purchase adapters for the 6.75 I made my own from 1/2 thick plastic. The stock kick panel speaker is a 6.5", but there is plenty of depth and space for the 6.75 to fit. As these were the only ones my local shop had in stock, I went with them. I did trim the back of the kick panel trim grill area (see photo) to ensure that the speaker would not touch as it travels. I mounted the tweeters to the dash top grills.
The amp is running like this:
2 channels - 4" Infinitys in the dash
2 channels - 6.75 components
1 channel - JL 12" at 2 ohms

I left the rear speakers running off the stock head unit and they only provide some minor rear fill. I tapped the kick panel speaker wiring (under the head unit) to feed the Wave Tech line out converter, mounted under the steering column. From there two sets of RCAs feed the amp mounted in the rear fender area.
The link 4 has a remote level knob that controls the sub volume and it is mounted under the dash (see photo).
I mounted the fuse to the lid of the fuse box under the hood and ran the 4 ga. wire down the drivers side and then across the back behind the seat, following the factory wiring harness. The RCAs, speaker, and remote wires are routed down the passenger side.
Originally I tired using the factory ground location towards the top rear of the fender area. This provided a lot of ground loop feedback so I ended up moving it to the location shown in the photo closer to the seat belt.
I cut the carpet off the sub box and coated it with two coats of Herculiner truck bed coating. I machined two custom t-slot nuts that fit into the oval cut outs in the tailgate. I used these two t-slot nuts and three rivet nuts across the top in existing factory holes to attach the box to the tailgate using five 1/4-20 bolts. Since the tailgate is not flat I placed some 3/16 thick rubber between the box and tailgate. I ran the wires to the sub inside of the factory wire loom and then close to the box brought them out into their own loom for a factory look.
The amp is mounted to a board attached to the fender using three existing studs in the fender. Everything is in loom or protective sleeve where it could be exposed to movement or wear. I removed practically every interior panel to complete this job and only managed to break one clip, and that was on the dash speaker grill after the third time taking it out.
Thank you to all of you who have posted photos and information on here to help me educate myself before I started the project. This system is overkill and is clear and loud enough that cruising with the top off is going to be awesome!
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Hey,
What is the diameter of the kick panel speaker grill? I'm toying around with some upgrade options. Thanks!
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EquusBronsis

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The purpose of the LOC is to improve the voltage of the signal, giving you a more powerful and clear signal to the amp.
Sorry this is not correct. The purpose of a LOC is to reduce voltage to the amplifier from speaker level to line level input, hence the name "Line Output Converter". If fact clarity could be compromised with addition of "more electronics" in series before amplification. It doesn't give you more power, but helps prevent over driving the amplifier. One could DIY with simple voltage divider circuit, two resistors per channel.
 
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Rem234

Rem234

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Sorry this is not correct. The purpose of a LOC is to reduce voltage to the amplifier from speaker level to line level input, hence the name "Line Output Converter". If fact clarity could be compromised with addition of "more electronics" in series before amplification. It doesn't give you more power, but helps prevent over driving the amplifier. One could DIY with simple voltage divider circuit, two resistors per channel.
My bad, yes you are correct. They do reduce voltage to 13V or less to provide a lower distortion level. Along with channel summing and bass roll of adjustments, and other features depending on which one you purchase.
 
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Rem234

Rem234

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Hey,
What is the diameter of the kick panel speaker grill? I'm toying around with some upgrade options. Thanks!
The grill snaps off of the trim panel separately. It has two hook clips on one end and snaps on the other. I would recommend removing it and looking at the placement for yourself. I don't feel like it is centered over the speaker hole in the sheet metal?
 

Hossfire

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The grill snaps off of the trim panel separately. It has two hook clips on one end and snaps on the other. I would recommend removing it and looking at the placement for yourself. I don't feel like it is centered over the speaker hole in the sheet metal?
Hah! I will do that when my Bronco arrives (no build date yet).

Here's where I am coming from: Crutchfield has the Bronco in its database now. The number of speakers that fit the kick plates is really small. The big limitation seems to be the space between the grill backing and the top of the speaker, not the magnet hitting the frame on the bottom.

I can think of a couple ways to get a little more space:

1) Your solution---shaving the grill underside
2) Custom fabbing a thinner mounting adapter
3) Cutting the grill circle out entirely and installing a raised aftermarket grill on the outside---not the best option because the grill sits flush to the foot rest

Eventually I will have the vehicle and figure out the right solution for me. Right now, I'm planning (and obsessing!)
 

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Ig_bronco

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Hah! I will do that when my Bronco arrives (no build date yet).

Here's where I am coming from: Crutchfield has the Bronco in its database now. The number of speakers that fit the kick plates is really small. The big limitation seems to be the space between the grill backing and the top of the speaker, not the magnet hitting the frame on the bottom.

I can think of a couple ways to get a little more space:

1) Your solution---shaving the grill underside
2) Custom fabbing a thinner mounting adapter
3) Cutting the grill circle out entirely and installing a raised aftermarket grill on the outside---not the best option because the grill sits flush to the foot rest

Eventually I will have the vehicle and figure out the right solution for me. Right now, I'm planning (and obsessing!)
No offense. By the time you get ur bronco there will be a lot more options which will take away majority of ur guessing. But if that what you wanna do when u get it you can guess if something else fits that they don't have listed. But I hope you get it sooner than later.
 
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Rem234

Rem234

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Hah! I will do that when my Bronco arrives (no build date yet).

Here's where I am coming from: Crutchfield has the Bronco in its database now. The number of speakers that fit the kick plates is really small. The big limitation seems to be the space between the grill backing and the top of the speaker, not the magnet hitting the frame on the bottom.

I can think of a couple ways to get a little more space:

1) Your solution---shaving the grill underside
2) Custom fabbing a thinner mounting adapter
3) Cutting the grill circle out entirely and installing a raised aftermarket grill on the outside---not the best option because the grill sits flush to the foot rest

Eventually I will have the vehicle and figure out the right solution for me. Right now, I'm planning (and obsessing!)
I actually did two of the three. My adapter I made was only 1/2 thick vs. the 3/4+ of the OEM speaker and Metra adapter. Then I also cut the ribs on the underside of the grill as a safety precaution because I was worried the woofer might hit them during excursion. The third option is not feasible as the kick panels are not secured to the steel very well and therefore would not do well with the weight or vibration.
The hole in the sheet metal is about 7"s in diameter and there is 2.5" of depth inside the metal box created for the speaker, without any speaker adaptor or spacer.

Hope you get a build date soon!
 

Hossfire

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I actually did two of the three. My adapter I made was only 1/2 thick vs. the 3/4+ of the OEM speaker and Metra adapter. Then I also cut the ribs on the underside of the grill as a safety precaution because I was worried the woofer might hit them during excursion. The third option is not feasible as the kick panels are not secured to the steel very well and therefore would not do well with the weight or vibration.
The hole in the sheet metal is about 7"s in diameter and there is 2.5" of depth inside the metal box created for the speaker, without any speaker adaptor or spacer.

Hope you get a build date soon!
Thanks!
 

Dane

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How difficult was it to run the tweeter from the kick panel to the dash? I bought components as well but I’m nervous about that part of it.
 
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Rem234

Rem234

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How difficult was it to run the tweeter from the kick panel to the dash? I bought components as well but I’m nervous about that part of it.
Super easy. I just used a piece of solid strand wire first then pulled the tweeter wire down through with it.
 

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Dane

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Super easy. I just used a piece of solid strand wire first then pulled the tweeter wire down through with it.
ok so you didn’t have remove all of the panels to do it? Thank you
 
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Rem234

Rem234

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ok so you didn’t have remove all of the panels to do it? Thank you
Just the speaker grill. And the kick panels were already out anyway. I also already had the lower dash panel down on the driver's side, which really let's you see up in there.
 

Inigo Montoya

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Do you have any waffling or flap from the kick panel speakers? I swapped my OEMs for Infinity Reference 6.5s, put dynamat all around the mounting surface and even behind in the cavity and it was terrible. I dont have any bass blockers or amps connected, but I was to the point I had to switch it back to the OEMs.
Speaker baffles and foam tape around the enclosures did the trick for me
 

Inigo Montoya

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Hah! I will do that when my Bronco arrives (no build date yet).

Here's where I am coming from: Crutchfield has the Bronco in its database now. The number of speakers that fit the kick plates is really small. The big limitation seems to be the space between the grill backing and the top of the speaker, not the magnet hitting the frame on the bottom.

I can think of a couple ways to get a little more space:

1) Your solution---shaving the grill underside
2) Custom fabbing a thinner mounting adapter
3) Cutting the grill circle out entirely and installing a raised aftermarket grill on the outside---not the best option because the grill sits flush to the foot rest

Eventually I will have the vehicle and figure out the right solution for me. Right now, I'm planning (and obsessing!)
Solution #1 worked for me - though a cleaner way would have been a shorter (or nearly flush) Metra mounting bracket to sink the speaker a little further into the fender. Surely one will become available.
 

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