JL Audio website lists the weight of the CS112LG-TW3 as 30.5 lbs. Since it is on the inside and closer to the hinges I really didn't notice any difference in closing or opening. Maybe once I get the 35"s on there it will be a different story?
My friend at the 4WD/Audio shop said this is how they do all the Jeeps. I know they have a different spare tire set up and probably different hinges though.
As you are all aware, the standard audio system is lacking, especially if you spend any time with the top and doors off and actually enjoy music. It is subpar for a 2021 vehicle in any price range. Here is what I did to improve. First I tried to take the inexpensive way out and installed the Infinity 4" REF-4032CFX speakers front and rear. This did yield an improvement in sound quality and a minor volume improvement. Back in the 90's I was really into car audio and did some decent installs, so I decided to go all in and give our ride the sounds it deserves for true top off enjoyment. Here is what I have now:
Infinity Reference REF-4030CFX (4 of them)
Rockford Fosgate P1675-S 6 3/4 components
Wave Tech link 4 line out converter
Rockford Fosgate T1000X5ad 5 channel amp
JL Audio CS112LG-TW3 12" Sub in sealed box
T-Spec 4 ga. wiring and RCAs
Rather than purchase adapters for the 6.75 I made my own from 1/2 thick plastic. The stock kick panel speaker is a 6.5", but there is plenty of depth and space for the 6.75 to fit. As these were the only ones my local shop had in stock, I went with them. I did trim the back of the kick panel trim grill area (see photo) to ensure that the speaker would not touch as it travels. I mounted the tweeters to the dash top grills.
The amp is running like this:
2 channels - 4" Infinitys in the dash
2 channels - 6.75 components
1 channel - JL 12" at 2 ohms
I left the rear speakers running off the stock head unit and they only provide some minor rear fill. I tapped the kick panel speaker wiring (under the head unit) to feed the Wave Tech line out converter, mounted under the steering column. From there two sets of RCAs feed the amp mounted in the rear fender area.
The link 4 has a remote level knob that controls the sub volume and it is mounted under the dash (see photo).
I mounted the fuse to the lid of the fuse box under the hood and ran the 4 ga. wire down the drivers side and then across the back behind the seat, following the factory wiring harness. The RCAs, speaker, and remote wires are routed down the passenger side.
Originally I tired using the factory ground location towards the top rear of the fender area. This provided a lot of ground loop feedback so I ended up moving it to the location shown in the photo closer to the seat belt.
I cut the carpet off the sub box and coated it with two coats of Herculiner truck bed coating. I machined two custom t-slot nuts that fit into the oval cut outs in the tailgate. I used these two t-slot nuts and three rivet nuts across the top in existing factory holes to attach the box to the tailgate using five 1/4-20 bolts. Since the tailgate is not flat I placed some 3/16 thick rubber between the box and tailgate. I ran the wires to the sub inside of the factory wire loom and then close to the box brought them out into their own loom for a factory look.
The amp is mounted to a board attached to the fender using three existing studs in the fender. Everything is in loom or protective sleeve where it could be exposed to movement or wear. I removed practically every interior panel to complete this job and only managed to break one clip, and that was on the dash speaker grill after the third time taking it out.
Thank you to all of you who have posted photos and information on here to help me educate myself before I started the project. This system is overkill and is clear and loud enough that cruising with the top off is going to be awesome!
Yes, I used the two 6.5 feeds into the LInk4 and then two sets of RCA's out. One RCA for the full range feed to the amp and one set for the Sub feed. Even though the amp is five channel it can use 2, 4, or 6 RCA inputs. Doing it this way allows me to use the LInk 4 remote knob to control the output level for the sub to turn it up or down independently.
Awesome! Even a 5.25 would be an improvement back there.Been working on these, testing them at this point. Basically took the rear pods and trimmed them out, made some 6.5” speaker rings, mounted them to the pods at a slight angle. Taped off the rear of the pod with painters tape to avoid getting fiberglass resin on the rear of the pods. Mounted the speaker rings and stretched and stapled cloth around the speaker opening and the edge of the pod. Painted the cloth with fiberglass resin and hardener and allowed them to cure. Followed that with a tedious amount of putting body filler with hardener then sanding and repeating. Still have to do that a couple more times before covering them. Still adding two amps and a jl audio 12tw3, but that is a bit later. Gotta find time between work and a new born baby haha.
I plan to make a custom adapter with my router and my Jasper circle jig. Once I do it (depending on when I get a build date!) I will document the dimensions and post.
Nice. I have been watching some videos on doing custom enclosures using the same methods.Been working on these, testing them at this point. Basically took the rear pods and trimmed them out, made some 6.5” speaker rings, mounted them to the pods at a slight angle. Taped off the rear of the pod with painters tape to avoid getting fiberglass resin on the rear of the pods. Mounted the speaker rings and stretched and stapled cloth around the speaker opening and the edge of the pod. Painted the cloth with fiberglass resin and hardener and allowed them to cure. Followed that with a tedious amount of putting body filler with hardener then sanding and repeating. Still have to do that a couple more times before covering them. Still adding two amps and a jl audio 12tw3, but that is a bit later. Gotta find time between work and a new born baby haha.
The spacer I made was .500 thick and nylon. I would think it would need to be .250 to sit low enough to clear the trim without trimming the ribs. Although some speakers may not be as tall or have as much excursion either?
I responded to your other one too lol. 2” deep will fit but there’s a clip underneath you gotta move. It’s simple though.
Thanks. I was looking on Crutchfield and several 4" options say they won't fit at 2" depth (Focals and MB Quart Reference). Of course if I go with an amp, some of those may be the better choice.
Crutchfield is pretty conservative with their measurements. I got the kicker ks series. They are about 2” and they fit fine.
Mtiaqustics.net makes a nice sub box that fits on the tailgate but it runs $400 for just the enclosureI may steal your idea to mount the sub on the tailgate
