WuNgUn

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The base took about 8 hours, and the phone mounts took a little less than that I think. Time is very dependent on how you "slice" it. Slicing is the part of the process where you generate G-code, dictating things like number of walls, infill density, layer height etc. I've done multiple prints that took a whole week! so anything less than a day to me seems fairly convenient.
OH shit.... You did the phone mounts too??
You rock, guy! 👍🏻
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Petey

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Test run so far with some cool galaxy black PLA I have. The speckles in it really hides the layer lines. Need to reorient the print as the supports didn’t come off the top very easily. Another 8 hour print here we go!

I may do a modification of the design to make it easier to print quickly.....
95B12C52-376B-46CA-931C-74EFAB9DAFDE.jpeg

F26698E5-D27D-4B26-8AA6-B9591A1528E6.jpeg
 
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TeocaliMG

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I printed it with support underneath. It is not super easy to remove either way, but it leaves the top side with a much nicer finish which is what you see anyway. I recommend running a lower support density (like 20% or less) but making the support interface density higher for supporting detail (like 50%+)
 

Petey

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I printed it with support underneath. It is not super easy to remove either way, but it leaves the top side with a much nicer finish which is what you see anyway. I recommend running a lower support density (like 20% or less) but making the support interface density higher for supporting detail (like 50%+)
Any issue with making the top completely flat (no bump-ins or bump-outs for the rail) so the print was completely flat and could be printed upside down with literally no supports?
 
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TeocaliMG

TeocaliMG

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Any issue with making the top completely flat (no bump-ins or bump-outs for the rail) so the print was completely flat and could be printed upside down with literally no supports?
Depends on the rail you use, and how you want to attach it. I have the cylindrical pads sticking up (they could actually go a mil higher probably) to get as much thread engagement with the screws as I can. Then there needs to be at least some clearance around the holes because the rail I am using is an m-lok to picatinny adapter so it has some positioning nubs. If you are just using flat rail you could get rid of all that. But you need a lot of faith in your glue then.

All that said, this is really only my first iteration. I am sure people can come up with cooler/stronger/faster/lighter designs. (Though all of those at once is a tall order)

Edit: added photo of 7 slot rail and CAD for reference.

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Petey

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Depends on the rail you use, and how you want to attach it. I have the cylindrical pads sticking up (they could actually go a mil higher probably) to get as much thread engagement with the screws as I can. Then there needs to be at least some clearance around the holes because the rail I am using is an m-lok to picatinny adapter so it has some positioning nubs. If you are just using flat rail you could get rid of all that. But you need a lot of faith in your glue then.

All that said, this is really only my first iteration. I am sure people can come up with cooler/stronger/faster/lighter designs. (Though all of those at once is a tall order)
Your design is awesome and well put together. I spent $200 on one of the aluminum ones that go all the way across the dash that was up here a couple weeks ago, so that most likely be my long term solution, but I love any 3D printed DIY solutions so I just had to give this a try.
 

VoltageDrop

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For those new to this and thinking of getting a printer, anticipate some fiddling and fussing to get a machine dialed in and producing well. There’s absolutely a learning curve - if you expect that going in, it’ll help avoid disappointment/frustration.

That said, it’s very rewarding and not terribly costly.

I do suggest at least PETG for anything that will live in a vehicle in summer. PLA can soften at pretty low temps.
I sprung for an $800 Prusa i3 and other than 9 tedious hours of assembly, it has been a breeze to use. Slicing is almost an art and does require some creativity but it's fun.

I am using fusion 360. My student license expired so I actually have to pay for it but I still find it worth it! But if you have an old school email you can try it for free, at least for a year or two.

I have also had good experiences with NX and Solidworks, not so much Catia...

Fusion 360 may not be the most powerful but it is just so simple and intuitive to build quality models very fast that I can't complain.
Fusion 360 is free for hobby use and there are endless videos on YouTube showing how to use it. I'm digging it!
 

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Thank you again here's a few pics can't wait to get some paint on these and the rail installed,
Joe

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Wait what? how is this thing working? got me confused here
 

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I feel like rip van winkle waking up after 40 years lord didn't kno wthey have stuff like this resin printer you guys got me you really got me this time had me in the internet rabbit hole good today this stuff is cool
 

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I would offer to machine them in billet aluminum but no one would want to pay for them! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

nice design OP.
 

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I would offer to machine them in billet aluminum but no one would want to pay for them! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

nice design OP.
now i have heard of the cnc mill wonder what it would cost to cnc mill one of these bad boys?
 

Joe Mulloy

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I would offer to machine them in billet aluminum but no one would want to pay for them! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

nice design OP.
you should get together with
I would offer to machine them in billet aluminum but no one would want to pay for them! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

nice design OP.
[/QUOTE
which resin are you using? they said abs was stronger to heat but hard to print with
The resin is Emodel light it’s a dental industry specific resin From envisiontech. The resin used is specific for making crown and bridge models. I have a few other options but this is one of our most cost-effective resins to start with.
 

Petey

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Thank you again here's a few pics can't wait to get some paint on these and the rail installed,
Joe

IMG-1263.jpg


IMG-1262.jpg


IMG-1261.jpg


IMG-1259.jpg


IMG-1258.jpg


IMG-1256.jpg


IMG-1255.jpg
I've run several regular 3D printers for years and have been researching resin....you may have pushed me to pull the trigger on one of these!
 
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