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New Oil Specification for GDI (Ecoboost) engines

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Received this article in the latest Rock Auto newsletter this morning. Thought it might be of interest to others. Applies to all GDI engines and specifically mentions Ecoboost...which would include both our 2.3L and 2.7L. Discusses an issue with GDIs I was not familiar with...soot and timing chains. Attention seems to be mostly on intake valve carbon build up so this was new to me.

"This year brought us a new specification for motor oil; ILSAC GF-6 / API SP. One of the primary goals of the new oil spec is to reduce incidence of two problems gasoline direct injection (GDI) engines have been experiencing.
GDI blasts the fuel directly into the combustion chamber at high pressure. This leaves less time for the air and fuel to mix together. The resulting air/fuel mixture may burn unevenly which may generate a lot of soot. As the pistons move up and down, the soot gets mixed into the motor oil. The soot travels with the motor oil through the engine and causes wear.
The most noticeable wear often occurs between the pins and bushings that hold timing chains together. As the bushing holes wear and enlarge, the timing chains stretch. Eventually the timing chains may stretch to the point that they slip across gear teeth or otherwise are unable to correctly connect the crankshaft to the camshafts. The computer generates a trouble code, the engine goes into limp-in mode and/or the engine stops running. GF-6 / SP oil resists collecting and circulating the harmful soot.

10-1-20TomStory.png

GF-6, API SP and API SN PLUS on label​

The second problem, low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), is also related to the uneven burning of air/fuel in GDI engines; specifically, turbocharged GDI engines. When running at relatively low RPM and under heavy load, like when moving away from a dead stop, severe knocking may occur inside the cylinders. Scientists figured out that traces of engine oil mixing and burning with the air/fuel mixture contributes to the damaging engine knock. GF-5 / SN-Plus spec oil was released a couple of years ago to combat this problem (watch for the “Plus” after SN). The new GF-6 / SP oil helps with both the soot and knock problems.
Ford has produced the most turbocharged GDI engines. Small 1L, three-cylinder Ford EcoBoost engines power Ford Fiestas, and big 3.5L, six-cylinder EcoBoost motors are in work trucks that rack up a lot of severe-duty (towing, dust, etc.) miles. The soot and knock problems have been studied most thoroughly on EcoBoost engines. The new specification actually requires that new GF-6 / SP oils pass tests running in Ford EcoBoost motors!
These new oils, higher fuel injection pressures, intake manifold port injection coupled with GDI, etc. help solve these problems on older engines and prevent them on newer engines. GDI engine owners may be able to help the most by simply changing their vehicles' motor oil frequently and always using the correct oil. Instead of waiting for the longest, light-duty, oil change interval (often 7,000+ miles/11,000+ km), change the oil closer to the severe-duty interval (often 3,000 miles/5,000 km).
You can check to see if your specific vehicle's engine uses GDI by looking at the “Info” pages and part descriptions for the engine's Fuel Injectors found under “Fuel & Air” in the RockAuto.com catalog. Find the correct engine Oil for your vehicle under “Engine.” Oil is also listed by viscosity/weight under the “Tools & Universal Parts” tab.
Note: The “A” in GF-6A means the oil is a viscosity/weight compatible with existing engines. The “B” in GF-B means the oil is only to be used in recent engine designs that require completely new viscosity/weight oils such as 0W-16.

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com
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Received this article in the latest Rock Auto newsletter this morning. Thought it might be of interest to others. Applies to all GDI engines and specifically mentions Ecoboost...which would include both our 2.3L and 2.7L. Discusses an issue with GDIs I was not familiar with...soot and timing chains. Attention seems to be mostly on intake valve carbon build up so this was new to me.

"This year brought us a new specification for motor oil; ILSAC GF-6 / API SP. One of the primary goals of the new oil spec is to reduce incidence of two problems gasoline direct injection (GDI) engines have been experiencing.
GDI blasts the fuel directly into the combustion chamber at high pressure. This leaves less time for the air and fuel to mix together. The resulting air/fuel mixture may burn unevenly which may generate a lot of soot. As the pistons move up and down, the soot gets mixed into the motor oil. The soot travels with the motor oil through the engine and causes wear.
The most noticeable wear often occurs between the pins and bushings that hold timing chains together. As the bushing holes wear and enlarge, the timing chains stretch. Eventually the timing chains may stretch to the point that they slip across gear teeth or otherwise are unable to correctly connect the crankshaft to the camshafts. The computer generates a trouble code, the engine goes into limp-in mode and/or the engine stops running. GF-6 / SP oil resists collecting and circulating the harmful soot.

Ford Bronco New Oil Specification for GDI (Ecoboost) engines 10-1-20TomStory

GF-6, API SP and API SN PLUS on label​

The second problem, low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), is also related to the uneven burning of air/fuel in GDI engines; specifically, turbocharged GDI engines. When running at relatively low RPM and under heavy load, like when moving away from a dead stop, severe knocking may occur inside the cylinders. Scientists figured out that traces of engine oil mixing and burning with the air/fuel mixture contributes to the damaging engine knock. GF-5 / SN-Plus spec oil was released a couple of years ago to combat this problem (watch for the “Plus” after SN). The new GF-6 / SP oil helps with both the soot and knock problems.
Ford has produced the most turbocharged GDI engines. Small 1L, three-cylinder Ford EcoBoost engines power Ford Fiestas, and big 3.5L, six-cylinder EcoBoost motors are in work trucks that rack up a lot of severe-duty (towing, dust, etc.) miles. The soot and knock problems have been studied most thoroughly on EcoBoost engines. The new specification actually requires that new GF-6 / SP oils pass tests running in Ford EcoBoost motors!
These new oils, higher fuel injection pressures, intake manifold port injection coupled with GDI, etc. help solve these problems on older engines and prevent them on newer engines. GDI engine owners may be able to help the most by simply changing their vehicles' motor oil frequently and always using the correct oil. Instead of waiting for the longest, light-duty, oil change interval (often 7,000+ miles/11,000+ km), change the oil closer to the severe-duty interval (often 3,000 miles/5,000 km).
You can check to see if your specific vehicle's engine uses GDI by looking at the “Info” pages and part descriptions for the engine's Fuel Injectors found under “Fuel & Air” in the RockAuto.com catalog. Find the correct engine Oil for your vehicle under “Engine.” Oil is also listed by viscosity/weight under the “Tools & Universal Parts” tab.
Note: The “A” in GF-6A means the oil is a viscosity/weight compatible with existing engines. The “B” in GF-B means the oil is only to be used in recent engine designs that require completely new viscosity/weight oils such as 0W-16.

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com
Cool info, thanks! I do not believe it applies to the directly to the 2.7 as it uses both DI and Port injection. Not to start an oil thread, but I do use Mobil 1 now in all my engines and change them at the factory indicated intervals (computer oil life indicator). If I for 2.3, I will likely decrease intervals and add the catch can. I will look to make sure Mobil 1 meets the referenced spec too. thanks again!
 

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Good find thanks!
 

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Finally a new topic with some good info other than "what Option I want and why Ford doesn't do it"

What I find odd is how the factory goes through All this research and sometimes has custom oil developed, and then when you go to the dealer for an oil change it's like .. "oh whatever we have in that 50 gallon drum"

I've found the only way you can make sure your engine is getting the right oil is to do it yourself. I Just hope it's not Like VW and I can only get it at the dealer (or pay an arm and a leg on Amazon).
 

Big L 65

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Good info I think we can prevent these problems by using top tier fuels . Don’t run the oil to 0% and always use Full synthetic motor oil
 

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I hope Costco's oil gets updated for these certifications
 

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I hope Costco's oil gets updated for these certifications
Walmart my man... I'll be pissed if I can't get my $25 5qt jug at Walmart for the bronco :)
 

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Walmart my man... I'll be pissed if I can't get my $25 5qt jug at Walmart for the bronco :)
So you're saying you *don't* have a Costco membership? ~$30 for 10qts full synthetic. Only crappy part is they only have 0W20 and 5W30.

My Flex takes 5W30 so I'm fine. My wife's Milan calls for 5W20, so she gets 0W20.
 

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Side note... if you are reading this thread you probably are already aware of Blackstone labs but just in case... totally worth the $30.

I've been running Mobil 1 extended at 10k intervals and Blackstone says my oil has plenty of life left in it.

Plan on doing the same with the Bronco Depending on the lab results of course
 

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So you're saying you *don't* have a Costco membership? ~$30 for 10qts full synthetic. Only crappy part is they only have 0W20 and 5W30.

My Flex takes 5W30 so I'm fine. My wife's Milan calls for 5W20, so she gets 0W20.
I do...but odd because every time I've priced it out its been more. My local Costco's only have that 6 qt individual box for more and yeah... never the weight I need.... but I'll put Costco back on my watch list... thanks
 

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Side note... if you are reading this thread you probably are already aware of Blackstone labs but just in case... totally worth the $30.

I've been running Mobil 1 extended at 10k intervals and Blackstone says my oil has plenty of life left in it.
Blackstone is the reason I settled on a 10k mile interval as well.

So many opinions on motor oil type/intervals are based on BroScience or how people 'feel'. If you want actual data points regarding changes in viscosity, breakdown of anti-friction additives, metals, etc, then it's money well spent.

Using all OEM Subaru filters and their rebranded Idemitsu full synthetic, my oil changes are $70 even doing it myself, so working out a longer interval with oil analysis pays for itself within one oil change.
 

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GF-6, API SP
I looked and my latest Mobil 1 does not contain the designation. I will need to find a new oil if I go 2.3 or maybe Mobil 1 will gain the certification by then?
 
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Mattwings

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Good info I think we can prevent these problems by using top tier fuels . Don’t run the oil to 0% and always use Full synthetic motor oil
From my understanding, fuel has nothing to do with the issue. It is that fuel does not pass through the valves, being directly injected into the combustion chamber. This causes the unburned oil, returned through the emissions system, to coat the valves. I am optimistic that the new oil spec will be helpful and a catch can is already a proven process to reduce the problem.
 

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From my understanding, fuel has nothing to do with the issue. It is that fuel does not pass through the valves, being directly injected into the combustion chamber. This causes the unburned oil, returned through the emissions system, to coat the valves. I am optimistic that the new oil spec will be helpful and a catch can is already a proven process to reduce the problem.
This is correct. Fuels and fuel additives/cleaners won't address the valve buildup issue in GDI-only engines.

One thing that's commonly cited as potentially mitigating buildup, is use of a motor oil with low Noack volatility (as well as catch cans). I'm not well-read on the subject enough to know if there's any truth to that, but I don't see how either of those would hurt.

The fact that catch can users will report having oil collecting in the can between oil changes suggests they're at least doing something, though.
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