Hey man, curious what convinced you to run through firewall instead to the feeds behind the glovebox? I haven't received the lights yet, but my intention is to have it wired traditionally so it works with the doors as well as to the AUX switches for that versatility. Having said that, I have never wired anything yet to the AUX switches so I'll have to watch them videos to understand the process myself. I haven't read up enough yet on wiring things to AUX to know the overall pros and cons. All that I'm privy to is the different aux switches are rated for different amperages and are ran to different locations of the vehicle, but that's as far as I got on research thus far.Mine arrive tomorrow.
I'm only wiring them to the #6 upfitter switch, which I have been convinced to route through the grommet on the firewall, rather than routing across the dash to behind the glovebox.
Is the factory IAG harness long enough to reach the ground screw and upfitter lead in the engine bay near the master cylinder, or will I have to extend the harness?
you will need a couple feet of wire to connect to the aux wiring.Mine arrive tomorrow.
I'm only wiring them to the #6 upfitter switch, which I have been convinced to route through the grommet on the firewall, rather than routing across the dash to behind the glovebox.
Is the factory IAG harness long enough to reach the ground screw and upfitter lead in the engine bay near the master cylinder, or will I have to extend the harness?
The ground point is attached to the upper roll bar on the driver's side. You will need about 3 feet of 18 gauge wire to get out under the hood to the upfitter switch wiring.Mine arrive tomorrow.
I'm only wiring them to the #6 upfitter switch, which I have been convinced to route through the grommet on the firewall, rather than routing across the dash to behind the glovebox.
Is the factory IAG harness long enough to reach the ground screw and upfitter lead in the engine bay near the master cylinder, or will I have to extend the harness?
Someone who I believe is on here and the FB group mentioned how easy it was to go through the blank grommet on the firewall near the brake booster (can't remember their name off hand, there's a post few pages back, oh yeah - and thanks for the suggestion!).Hey man, curious what convinced you to run through firewall instead to the feeds behind the glovebox? I haven't received the lights yet, but my intention is to have it wired traditionally so it works with the doors as well as to the AUX switches for that versatility. Having said that, I have never wired anything yet to the AUX switches so I'll have to watch them videos to understand the process myself. I haven't read up enough yet on wiring things to AUX to know the overall pros and cons. All that I'm privy to is the different aux switches are rated for different amperages and are ran to different locations of the vehicle, but that's as far as I got on research thus far.
Thanks!The ground point is attached to the upper roll bar on the driver's side. You will need about 3 feet of 18 gauge wire to get out under the hood to the upfitter switch wiring.
There’s a military discount?!I wish I knew about the first responder, military discount, I ordered and paid full price! Oh well!
There’s a military discount?!
I wish I knew about the first responder military discount, I ordered and paid full price! Oh well!
Thanks that was it. However, had to loosen bolt to keep it better grounded? Seems like might move over time but will keep you updated.Check your ground connection point first. Make sure it is nice and secure.
Any idea when the next release will be?Next release is Friday at 9am. Act quickly because they have been selling out in a few minutes.
Any idea when the next release will be?
Yes, they mentioned the draw of these lights are extremely low. 10 amp is more than enough.Sorry if I missed this - but, for those that are connecting to AUX as well - are you using AUX 3-6/10 amp? I assume that’s plenty, but couldn’t find anything on @IAG Performance site or install video.