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KABQ

Base
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Clubs
 
Easy wiring?
I just cut the connector off the old bumper. Super easy, and the wiring they provide is well controlled and looks very clean.
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malt_liqueur

Outer Banks
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I had been looking at the Broaddict/Mabett one that folds out a bit differently, but the more I look at it the more I think it just looks like rattles waiting to happen.

1704564014038.png
I've got the Broaddict table and have zero rattles unless I hit a big bump. Normal driving is fine.
 

dcg2

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Full PPF. Pain to take care of.

No pinstripes though.
Honestly I got the full XPEL Stealth PPF when I bought my Bronco over 2 years ago and couldn't be happier that I did. Looks great still and no pinstripes despite plenty of PA trail time.

10/10 would do again.
 

Keerplunk

Big Bend
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The three different light bar/Mount combos I tried for my windshield. First claimed it was for a 40" (it was not) Second also claimed it was 40" it was actually 44" (spacers worked but looked dumb)
The third one was the best from Quake LED and allowed a 40" plus two 3" pods on the sides Worked the best and looked good) Real problem other than fit though was the wind noise with the soft top. strike that the real problem is I ended up losing my dam color matched caps!
 

Tex

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There are several options, but this is one of the base mounts.
On one of these, I have this phone mount attached to it.
I also have a few AR | BALLS that I used to mount a RAM arm joint to mount my tablet to for off grid navi.

I also have quick release picatinny mounts that I use for my GoPro from this store on Etsy. However, I don't see them on his page anymore so you may want to reach out to him.
They come off with a quick flip and you can move and mount them anywhere on the rail.
The GoPros are mounted to these adaptors.

I also have a 3D printed walkie mount that I got from this store on Etsy but also no longer there.

That should cover most of it.

The hardest part of finding mounts for the picatinny rail is that the rail is designed to be used on the barrel end of a rifle, so most of the mounts are designed to point straight along the barrel, not sideways. But the threaded mounts work well, sometimes may need to add a washer in between to adjust.

Happy hunting.
You can buy a blank throw lever mount and tap it for a 1/4x20 screw. Thread in a countersink screw from the bottom up, rocksett or loctite the threads and stake it to keep it in place, add a thumbwheel lock to clock it in the right orientation.

https://www.aimshot.com/product-page/mt61173-1
https://www.amazon.com/Frgyee-Nut-Adapter-Anti-Slip-Washers/dp/B0B82DDGWS

It's originally meant for adhesive camera mounts, and you can certainly still use it in that manner, but leave it on the dash in the summer and the camera will slowly slide off, leaving a gooey mess behind. Plenty of other ways to adapt it to accessories beyond a standard camera thread too. Tap the base for 1/4x20 and you can install a RAM ball or AR ball to it. Pretty much everything is compatible with ball mounts these days...cameras, phones, radios, tablets, flashlights, cupholders, whatever it might be, some amazon seller with an unpronounceable name is going to have a listing for it. But at that point, a more usable rail would be a blank rail with a whole lot of 1/4x20 holes in it. That would make more sense than a pic rail at any rate, because as you said, everything is biased in a different direction. The original Ford prototype wasn't an actual pic rail and the accessories were able to conveniently slide across the rail when loosened because the mounts were simplified and didn't focus on rock solid mounting. Actual pic rail mounts are designed to avoid sliding and movement at all costs, which means you're limited to mount accessories at certain positions over available slots, no better than a bunch of tapped holes in a line.

Sad to say but I've got a bit of a love/hate thing going on with my IAG dome light kit. Sure, I got the install done okay which was a super pain with my big ol hands....no blame there. But it seems like half the time they're not bright enough for whatever I need? I've seen complaints the other way (too bright - maybe that was the other kit?) - I WISH that was my issue. Can't see a dang thing on the floor, even with nothing in the way, and at night. It's considerably better than stock, but I feel like I could have had better results wiring in some Amazon LED strip along the halo like I did in the cargo area.

For what it's worth, I'm not digging on anything but the brightness of the kit. The rest is fine, and I would/probably will buy from IAG again in the future.
Yeah something's not right, maybe you got the wrong kit or did something different with the wiring? My kit is extremely bright, so much so that my wife doesn't like it. I was thinking of making little glare shields that direct light downward instead of in every direction to help with that and keep the light where it's needed. The only spot that doesn't get tons of light is the cargo area.
 

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mikeeshim

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Clubs
 
You can buy a blank throw lever mount and tap it for a 1/4x20 screw. Thread in a countersink screw from the bottom up, rocksett or loctite the threads and stake it to keep it in place, add a thumbwheel lock to clock it in the right orientation.

https://www.aimshot.com/product-page/mt61173-1
https://www.amazon.com/Frgyee-Nut-Adapter-Anti-Slip-Washers/dp/B0B82DDGWS

It's originally meant for adhesive camera mounts, and you can certainly still use it in that manner, but leave it on the dash in the summer and the camera will slowly slide off, leaving a gooey mess behind. Plenty of other ways to adapt it to accessories beyond a standard camera thread too. Tap the base for 1/4x20 and you can install a RAM ball or AR ball to it. Pretty much everything is compatible with ball mounts these days...cameras, phones, radios, tablets, flashlights, cupholders, whatever it might be, some amazon seller with an unpronounceable name is going to have a listing for it. But at that point, a more usable rail would be a blank rail with a whole lot of 1/4x20 holes in it. That would make more sense than a pic rail at any rate, because as you said, everything is biased in a different direction. The original Ford prototype wasn't an actual pic rail and the accessories were able to conveniently slide across the rail when loosened because the mounts were simplified and didn't focus on rock solid mounting. Actual pic rail mounts are designed to avoid sliding and movement at all costs, which means you're limited to mount accessories at certain positions over available slots, no better than a bunch of tapped holes in a line.
Appreciate the ideas here. I've gotten all of my mounts figured out but I'll forward to those that got the sliding rails. I'm happy with my setup that's now been true off road tested and not a thing budges or falls off. Only PIA is when I get car washed, I have to remove everything to clean the dash because I left almost no space.
 

tourproto

Badlands
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I am taking this thread a little more liberally in it's intent... I wish I hadn't leased. Not for any other reason other than it's conclusion. With how stupid and terrible loan rates are now I am genuinely pissed I have to get one at the end of the year for something I already have.
Why not buy it out at the end of the lease?
 

tourproto

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Full PPF. Pain to take care of.

No pinstripes though.
Really? I got the front section only PPF and love it. I ceramic coated the Bronco and it has been trouble-free and I am sure it has prevented a ton of hood dings.

What do you have to take care of with a full body PPF? Only reason I didn't do it was because of the cost. The quotes at the time were stupid expensive $3K and up.
 

tourproto

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Because unlike everyone else here I don't have $30k just sitting around.
You can still finance it, and even though rates aren't great, financing a Bronco at the residual value will be less painful than at brand new MSRP.
 

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wylieone46

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Clubs
 
I seem to be in the minority on most things here. I think the OBX stock rims look great and I love the netting door pockets!

These are the mods I've done and really like each one:
  • Trail Armor Rocker Panels - looks great to cover the pinch welds but made out of plastic with drainage to not trap moisture against the frame.
  • Beegrow Center Console Organizer - I didn't opt for Lux on my 2023, so the included wireless charger works great and I always know where my phone is at.
  • Beegrow Rear Ceiling Lights - adds a ton of light and a little cheaper than Mabett for the exact same thing.
  • SQQP Mesh Grill Inserts - This is how the OBX grill should have looked from the beginning. Those huge holes where you can see all the random internal components looks terrible to me. The piano black finish makes it look OEM.
  • Replaced the dash and pod 4" speakers and gave the rears full range with FORSCAN. Along with my 7 speaker stock system that actually came with function OEM amp and sub, made a huge positive difference.
  • Bronco Script Emblems from Stickerfab - bigger and metal. Super high quality.
  • Weathertech Floor Liners - spend the extra few bucks for the HP version.
  • Weathertech Child Car Seat Protectors - Finally something I can use that will keep my kid's car seats from putting permanent indents in the seat. Since Weathertech also claims they have been crash tested, my wife was actually onboard.
  • Upgraded OEM Tires to General Grabbers in 275/70/18 and standard load.
  • Broflaps mudflaps for the front - works with the factory steps, easy to install, and a minimalist in their looks.

EDIT: Added some I missed.

I really like my Broflaps too. I wish more people knew about them. They do work great and are super easy to install. They can be found on Etsy if anyone wants to give them a try.

I also did the General Grabbers on my Big Bend.
 

slycat67

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Black Diamond
Clubs
 
Honestly I got the full XPEL Stealth PPF when I bought my Bronco over 2 years ago and couldn't be happier that I did. Looks great still and no pinstripes despite plenty of PA trail time.

10/10 would do again.
I’ve heard the PPF last about 3-5 years max. True or urban myth? It’s been holding me back…

thx
 
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PrepVet

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You can still finance it, and even though rates aren't great, financing a Bronco at the residual value will be less painful than at brand new MSRP.
Which is exactly what I said. Financing sucks. Even the residual value is going to have a stupid rate.
 

slycat67

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Clubs
 
Why not buy it out at the end of the lease?
Can’t yiu compare the buyout vs the resale and decide at that point? If you can move some change around maybe get a shorter term loan and pay it off quicker? Or do it like a house, split your payment into two monthly payments and cut some of that rate. Not sure if that translates to auto payments as well based on duration or if it’s overkill. Not all brainstorm ideas are good ones… 😂
 

tourproto

Badlands
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Which is exactly what I said. Financing sucks. Even the residual value is going to have a stupid rate.
sorry, I misunderstood your original post. Thought you were going to turn in your current Bronco and buy a new one.
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