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How flexible is the oem mud flap? Rubber flexible or plastic flexible?
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Waiting for the next best thing. The fronts were cheap and are serving the purpose. My Rock rails are off for now, awaiting Rock Slide Eng to be built and ship. Once those are installed I may have to redo the fronts too.Well shoot. Yeah, that's what i had heard. It's your plan to just use the ford ones up front and then another brand on the rear?
Link to where you purchased these pleaseUpdated with template from @flip
OK, here's the secret template. The way he's doing these is simple and accounts for mounting variation between vehicles.The template is pushed over the end of the board, mud flap installed on vehicle then the template is taped to the flap, flap removed and can then be cut. It's slightly undersize to the finished hole but has worked well for the two we've done.
Original post:
This may have already been covered elsewhere, but I cut holes in the OEM splash guards, and that allowed them to be installed, even with rock rails in place. I’ll probably order a second set and do it again, this time with a little more finesse on the cutting.
They are plastic and about what you would expect. They're not as flexible as rubber but they're not real stiff either.How flexible is the oem mud flap? Rubber flexible or plastic flexible?
But you get the word bronco for that $500. So there is that.The cut looks messy to me. It’s absurd that our only option is $500 right now or $50 and all it needs is a cut.
Any idea if either front or rear would fit around the Sasquatch fender flair’s?Bought the standard Ford Bronco mud flaps from Lasco Ford. Cheaper than most. Back mud flaps installed perfect. Front mud flaps are a bit more of a challenge, just cutting out the running board protrusion that ran into the front wheel well by about an 1.25”. Used a couple of additional metal clips, Ford plastic push mount fittings and a bit of flexseal tape. Real solid mount!
Then I put a piece of molding(1” cable channel, painted black) above the running boards to cover those ugly holes below the doors. Not sure why Ford did not finish this area with a piece of molding.
Real easy install drilling a couple of holes in the 1” cable channel that matched up to the holes in the vehicle and used 6 Ford plastic push mount fittings to mount. Snapped the cover back on to the mounted channel base I installed on the vehicle with the 6 push mount fittings.
Looks a lot better that the holes.
I am 100% with you on this one for the factory running board scenario. 6 bolts to remove, 2 screws for the end cap, and lop off about an inch. Replace everything and it should work. Maybe I am crazy, but the steps look like they are made out of plastic! That end cap is the real blessing since it will pretty much hide anything that you ugly up.Honestly I think the best approach would be to actually trim back the rock rail itself.
The odds of you needing extra coverage of the rock rail in that area with mud flaps in place is zero, it will look better, and you then have mud flaps without a hole in them
Maybe a little more work upfront but probably worth it.
How much of the rail sticks through the mud flap? Did you consider just cutting the rail off to match the edge of the mad flap?Just installed ours today. It was a little bit of work cutting the holes in the right place but got'er done. It's a shame that Ford doesn't offer a set of these that are compatible with the rock rails.
Flip thanks very much!! I have seen it mentioned a couple other times but is there any way a printable template can be linked here for us technically challenged individuals ? Thanks!!!Updated with template from @flip
OK, here's the secret template. The way he's doing these is simple and accounts for mounting variation between vehicles.The template is pushed over the end of the board, mud flap installed on vehicle then the template is taped to the flap, flap removed and can then be cut. It's slightly undersize to the finished hole but has worked well for the two we've done.
Original post:
This may have already been covered elsewhere, but I cut holes in the OEM splash guards, and that allowed them to be installed, even with rock rails in place. I’ll probably order a second set and do it again, this time with a little more finesse on the cutting.
Well nothing is as easy as it looks. I pulled the front end caps and found they have a slotted arrangement to help secure them...I am 100% with you on this one for the factory running board scenario. 6 bolts to remove, 2 screws for the end cap, and lop off about an inch. Replace everything and it should work. Maybe I am crazy, but the steps look like they are made out of plastic! That end cap is the real blessing since it will pretty much hide anything that you ugly up.