Oil Change 2.3L: Drain Plug and Oil Filter Torque Spec?

[SPITmadFIRE]

As the title says — looking for the torque spec on the 2.3L oil drain plug and oil filter. On previous 2.3L ecoboosts I’ve used 19 ft/lbs as stated in workshop manuals, but unsure if that’s correct given Panda Motorworks stating it’s 21 ft/lbs in their video. We don’t have a workshop manual yet, and I don’t think the owners manual specifies anything other than the oil and filter specs themselves. Any ideas here?

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[BamaBronc]

All I know is I did my first one today, and getting to the damn oil filter without the oil running down that channel and down your arm is a magic trick. I finally had to jack up the thing, take loose the driver inner fender liner and unscrew it with a oil filter cup. Major pain. Next time I’m taking to the dealer. Videos showing it being done on a lift is deceiving. I’m too old to be wallowing around on the ground.

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

All I know is I did my first one today, and getting to the damn oil filter without the oil running down that channel and down your arm is a magic trick. I finally had to jack up the thing, take loose the driver inner fender liner and unscrew it with a oil filter cup. Major pain. Next time I’m taking to the dealer. Videos showing it being done on a lift is deceiving. I’m too old to be wallowing around on the ground.

from what I’ve seen through the wheel well, using a u-joint and an oil filter socket should do the trick, no? The first oil filter is always the toughest 🥲 after that they only go on hand tight anyway

 

[ProdigyJKU]

As far as I'm aware, only cartridge filters use torque specs. Spin on filters typically say something like contact, plus a 3/4 turn.

 

[ProdigyJKU]

I just slid under, popped 2 bolts out and slid the skidplate off. Plenty of room, to get to filter and plug, the factory filter came loose by hand. No mess at all.

 

[BamaBronc]

from what I’ve seen through the wheel well, using a u-joint and an oil filter socket should do the trick, no? The first oil filter is always the toughest 🥲 after that they only go on hand tight anyway

I didn’t use a u-joint. Took loose an electrical connector and took out one plastic rivet for the liner and used the socket with @9” worth of extensions. After doing it this time, taking the skid plate off would be the hardest part if I do it again.

 

[BamaBronc]

I just slid under, popped 2 bolts out and slid the skidplate off. Plenty of room, to get to filter and plug, the factory filter came loose by hand. No mess at all.

My filter was put on by King Kong I guess. My skid plate has 6 bolts. Only two of which that would let it “slide”

 

[nomnom]

I did my first oil change yesterday! Skid plate was easy to remove, and for torque on the filter and bolt, I just went by feel.

oil drain was about as tight as it could get while laying down, and the filter came off easy by hand so I just hand turned the new one on.

Ill let you all know if it comes off and all my oil seeps out

 

[ProdigyJKU]

My filter was put on by King Kong I guess. My skid plate has 6 bolts. Only two of which that would let it “slide”

Forgot I leave the rear one off for convience and weight savings. I throw it back on if I take it wheeling. One less thing for the road salt to rust during the winter.

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

Forgot I leave the rear one off for convience and weight savings. I throw it back on if I take it wheeling. One less thing for the road salt to rust during the winter.

we’re talking about the steel bash plates, right? Not sure if trims without the bash plates just get one of those Ford Felt™️ liners or not, but my steel bash plate looks like it has 4 bolts holding it in. There’s another two bolts towards the rear that look like they’re connected to the bash plate at first glance, but they’re not.

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

Update: oil change was easy enough to do without lifting the car or even turning the front wheels. The above advice about removing the one electrical connector and getting the fender liner out of the way helped for sure.

As for drain plug torque, I went to 20 ft/lbs which felt snug enough given the rubber/nylon gasket on the drain plug, and snug + a full rotation on the filter itself.

Can confirm; to flat foot crank a 2.3L 7MT you hold down clutch and gas all the way and just tap the start button. It’ll crank for like 5-10 seconds then stop, so keep both pedals held down the whole time.

 

[Saltlife4shore]

Little more then hand tight.

 

[Schwaggle]

Inquiring minds want to know for sure:

Torque Specifications

Engine oil pan drain plug - 27 Nm (20 lb-ft) 15mm socket

Engine oil filter - 8 Nm (71 lb-in) - plus an additional 180 degrees

Front & Rear undershields; 124lbs/in 15mm socket

Edit:
Also, O'Reilly's sells a WIX oil sample kit, P/N 24077 which I use for all of our family vehicles. Firstly, the Tremor and Bronco are under warranty (anyone else here with 6.4L or 6.7Ls had fuel dilution issues not addressed while under warranty?), and my 7.3L Excursion has over 330k so I want to know where the engine's at so I can order and replace parts before failure; similarly for my old cars; they're just not over 330k lol

 

[rtazz17]

As the title says — looking for the torque spec on the 2.3L oil drain plug and oil filter. On previous 2.3L ecoboosts I’ve used 19 ft/lbs as stated in workshop manuals, but unsure if that’s correct given Panda Motorworks stating it’s 21 ft/lbs in their video. We don’t have a workshop manual yet, and I don’t think the owners manual specifies anything other than the oil and filter specs themselves. Any ideas here?

I dont think in fact I-know I have never spec torqued an oil filter or plug in 40 years. I like to live life on the edge

 

[choppersean]

Funny you ask this. My son (a diesel mechanic) and I spent a couple of hours yesterday working on my daughter's car.........new coolant thermostat and also a transmission service (drain, new filter, and refill). We noted the torque spec requirements for several things and I asked him where the torque wrench was. He said he uses the German torque wrench......."Gutentight." I think unless it is a head stud, leaf spring bolts, crank shaft race bearings, etc. that a "snug" works just fine......especially on an oil pan drain plug. I cannot imagine how many oil changes I have done over my life and have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug. Relax......you'll be just fine.

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