Sponsored

Oil Change 2.3L lessons learned

etmccaus86

Base
Well-Known Member
First Name
Evan
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Threads
8
Messages
901
Reaction score
1,649
Location
Motor City
Vehicle(s)
'22 BaseSquatch
Your Bronco Model
Base
Clubs
 
(disposal alone is a PITA).
It's stupid easy here in MI - most auto parts stores take it free of charge.
Fortunate that it's all of a 10-min round trip for me.
Sponsored

 

Frank N

Well-Known Member
First Name
Frank
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Threads
2
Messages
744
Reaction score
1,863
Location
NJ and Outerbanks
Vehicle(s)
2018 Ford Raptor
Your Bronco Model
Undecided
Clubs
 
I've been doing my own oil changes for 37 years....never been easier. Order oil and filters on line, I love that. Find a spare 30 minutes, pull plug, remove filter, check fluids, belt, peak at brakes, replace filter, put the drain plug back in, fill oil, check level, start engine, clean up, turn off engine, check oil level, done. The job was done right, the oil and filters used were correct spec, tightened correctly and saved enough to buy a 12 pack.

Used oil goes to recycling when I have to go down that way.

My time is worth money....no one leaves home for the dealer, gets their oil changed and is back home in 30 minutes.
 

WRF3MD

Black Diamond
Well-Known Member
First Name
Will
Joined
Jul 8, 2020
Threads
0
Messages
417
Reaction score
1,170
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
Ford F150/Ranger
Your Bronco Model
Black Diamond
Clubs
 
I have always done oil changes myself unless it's close to the freezing mark. Hard to explain, but my oil change set up is half in/ half out of the shop for ground clearance. And I don't particularly like laying on 35 degree concrete. Disposal is the easy part, got a dirt/gravel driveway? Just dump it out there, makes a nice smooth, hard packed road. I'm kidding about dumping it the driveway, please don't do that.
 

Frank N

Well-Known Member
First Name
Frank
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Threads
2
Messages
744
Reaction score
1,863
Location
NJ and Outerbanks
Vehicle(s)
2018 Ford Raptor
Your Bronco Model
Undecided
Clubs
 
I have always done oil changes myself unless it's close to the freezing mark. Hard to explain, but my oil change set up is half in/ half out of the shop for ground clearance. And I don't particularly like laying on 35 degree concrete. Disposal is the easy part, got a dirt/gravel driveway? Just dump it out there, makes a nice smooth, hard packed road. I'm kidding about dumping it the driveway, please don't do that.
Cold temps? Cardboard on the ground and sunshine on the driveway is your friend....but I hear you. If I know an OC is coming up, I start watching the weather for the right day, usually around noon I grab that 30 minutes. LOL
 

Lxatoledo

Wildtrak
Well-Known Member
First Name
E
Joined
May 3, 2021
Threads
8
Messages
377
Reaction score
834
Location
Albuquerque
Vehicle(s)
75 EB Ranger
Your Bronco Model
Wildtrak
Thatā€™s funny! Iā€˜be always changed my own oil mainly because my time is so valuable. In the time it would take me to drive to the dealer once to drop it off and once to pick it up (time for two people actually unless you get a loaner), I could change the oil on my cars. Plus, Iā€™d much rather do it myself because then I know it has been done right. I have a big storage container that holds about 4 gallons of oil. I take it to the recycling center about once a year.

But I understand your sentiment and especially on the drain plug. Youā€™ll never extract all the oil with an extractor.

Also, $75!? All my cars are European so it would cost me $200-$300 to pay a dealer to change my oil. I canā€™t imagine a Ford dealer only charging $75, but even at $75, Iā€™d do it myself.
Yea, I used to do the math on time vs price--- right up until:
1. One place took my tires off to check my brakes and then I lost my lug nut cover because it wasn't replaced correctly. 135.00 replacement
2. Had multiple oil filters put on in GORILLA style -requiring jigs, muscle, leverage and related to get them off.
3. Wife was crying because they said her air filter was dirty and she should drive away safely until replacing it.
4. Engine Shield clips/tabs and related end up missing and shield often not replaced correctly.
5. Every freaking time, "Sir, your car.........." I stop them in mid sentence, "Yea, yea, yea I know requires a "special" filter and "special" oil............just put in what I tell you to put in. I don't want to hear about it."
6. As mentioned above (European) My Porsche was super expensive and super super super duper "special". I went home and it turned out to be the easiest oil change I ever did.
7. In short, they are morons. I can mess stuff up just fine myself for cheaper.

** FYI Life Hack: I get a strong magnet and place on oil pan to pull metals. Some plugs are magnetized which helps.
 

Sponsored

rk105rider

Base
Well-Known Member
First Name
Ed
Joined
Nov 29, 2021
Threads
7
Messages
97
Reaction score
161
Location
Andersonville, TN
Vehicle(s)
Harleys, Subaru Forester, Dodge Ram Van
Your Bronco Model
Base
One thing that has been noted about getting all the Oil out, during an Oil Change, on the Bronco Engines, you need to remove the Oil Filter first, then remove the Sump Drain; that will release that last Quart of Oilā€¦
 

Dickzip

Everglades
Well-Known Member
First Name
Todd
Joined
Nov 6, 2022
Threads
6
Messages
124
Reaction score
172
Location
S/w florida
Vehicle(s)
Bronco
Your Bronco Model
Everglades
Clubs
 
One thing that has been noted about getting all the Oil out, during an Oil Change, on the Bronco Engines, you need to remove the Oil Filter first, then remove the Sump Drain; that will release that last Quart of Oilā€¦
Is this on a ford document somewhere? Can you post where you read this? 2.3 or 2.7? I have questions...lol
 

tdh1971

Badlands
Member
First Name
Todd
Joined
Apr 28, 2021
Threads
2
Messages
19
Reaction score
34
Location
Tell City, IN
Vehicle(s)
Ford F150
Your Bronco Model
Badlands
I have a sticker on the inside of my windshield that says first oil change is 3k. I have around 2400 on it right now. Will change it myself.
 

ChrisB351

Black Diamond
Well-Known Member
First Name
Chris
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Threads
16
Messages
1,191
Reaction score
1,900
Location
Shreveport, LA
Vehicle(s)
2022 2dr Bronco, 2005 ZX6r, 1993 Mustang GT
Your Bronco Model
Black Diamond
Clubs
 
Also, $75!? All my cars are European so it would cost me $200-$300 to pay a dealer to change my oil. I canā€™t imagine a Ford dealer only charging $75, but even at $75, Iā€™d do it myself.
My dealer quoted me $79.99 for oil change and rotate. I work in a Euro repair shop and our avg prices are 200-220. Differences in pricing have several variables. Euros typically use Mobil 1 or some full synthetic equivalent, Ford uses motorcraft synthetic blend. The filters are also a big difference in cost. Also the Ford dealer typically has dedicated hourly "luber goobers" to change the oil whereas a euro shop has to pay a mainline tech so therefore labor is higher too.
 

thesocalexplorer

Big Bend
Well-Known Member
First Name
Joe
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Threads
14
Messages
403
Reaction score
622
Location
Southern California
Vehicle(s)
Bronco
Your Bronco Model
Big Bend
Clubs
 
I drained my sump first. Put the drain plug back on, then moved back to the filter (all while dipstick was out & filler cap was removed). Afterwards replaced with the spec 6.2qts -- was reading full on the dipstick. No delta from original factory fill.
 

Sponsored

Desert_Brush

Base
Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2022
Threads
3
Messages
109
Reaction score
180
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
2015 Mini Cooper
Your Bronco Model
Base
Is this on a ford document somewhere? Can you post where you read this? 2.3 or 2.7? I have questions...lol
I just changed my oil this past Saturday (2.3L automatic). Drove it to and from the auto parts store to pick up oil and filter to get the engine to running temperature. Took out the drain plug, let oil drain for 15 minutes, slows to a drip THEN remove the oil filter and both oil filter location and oil drain plug begin to drain more oil out. I let it drain for another 15 minutes in both places then replaced the oil drain plug and oil filter. Filled up with 6 quarts of oil and did the flat foot crank to circulate the new oil in the engine without turning it over. More oil does drain out of the drain plug once you remove the oil filter.
 

l88m22vette

Badlands
Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2022
Threads
19
Messages
361
Reaction score
477
Location
IL
Vehicle(s)
Please sir may I have locking diffs?
Your Bronco Model
Badlands
I got my first change at 160 miles, and am just over 1600 miles. I plan to do another very soon, but am torn on what to do. I'm thinking use the stock filter and oil for the 1600 mile change, and switch to a magnetic plug. Then, change again at about 3500 miles with the blend and larger FL400S filter, and switch to full syn and the larger filter at 6000 miles. I'd do the next full syn change at 10,000 miles, and move to a 5k change interval.

Mileage between changes, first three would be stock oil and filter:
160 miles -> 1500 miles -> 2000 miles -> 2500 miles w/more filter -> 4000 miles with w/full syn and filter

I'm thinking this prevents the blended "break-in" oil from getting too old, and going to full syn at 6000 miles allows for the engine to finish wear-in on what it'll have the rest of its life. I've had good luck with Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, and Rotella T6, but I'm not sure what to use with the 2.3. I do like that all three are easily available at stores, instead of having to order an oil change kit online.

Thoughts?

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/motorcraft-fl-910s-vs-fl-400s.264537/
 

cyberfalco

Badlands
Well-Known Member
First Name
Tony
Joined
Apr 8, 2022
Threads
2
Messages
446
Reaction score
806
Location
Conway, AR
Vehicle(s)
2011 JK, 2000 Ram 2500, 1993 FZJ80, 1994 FZJ80
Your Bronco Model
Badlands
Clubs
 
Yes, good point. There are a couple of Ranger videos and it looks like access through the LF wheel well works (with or without tire removal). If going that way, the filter "cap wrench" that fits on the end of the filter appears to be the way to go from the angle of the access.
I reached through the left front wheel to remove the filter. It worked well and I had the grip strength to remove it without a wrench.
 

Bruno

Base
Well-Known Member
First Name
Bruno
Joined
Apr 24, 2021
Threads
49
Messages
839
Reaction score
896
Location
Montclair
Vehicle(s)
F150
Your Bronco Model
Base
Clubs
 

Sparkherd

Badlands
Well-Known Member
First Name
Sparky
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Threads
11
Messages
584
Reaction score
799
Location
South Central Texas
Website
www.sparkherd.com
Vehicle(s)
Lifelong Ford guy.
Your Bronco Model
Badlands
Clubs
 
I got my first change at 160 miles, and am just over 1600 miles. I plan to do another very soon, but am torn on what to do. I'm thinking use the stock filter and oil for the 1600 mile change, and switch to a magnetic plug. Then, change again at about 3500 miles with the blend and larger FL400S filter, and switch to full syn and the larger filter at 6000 miles. I'd do the next full syn change at 10,000 miles, and move to a 5k change interval.

Mileage between changes, first three would be stock oil and filter:
160 miles -> 1500 miles -> 2000 miles -> 2500 miles w/more filter -> 4000 miles with w/full syn and filter

I'm thinking this prevents the blended "break-in" oil from getting too old, and going to full syn at 6000 miles allows for the engine to finish wear-in on what it'll have the rest of its life. I've had good luck with Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, and Rotella T6, but I'm not sure what to use with the 2.3. I do like that all three are easily available at stores, instead of having to order an oil change kit online.

Thoughts?

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/motorcraft-fl-910s-vs-fl-400s.264537/
I found in the manual where it says oil consumption should stabilize on a new engine at 3K miles.
That's when Ford considers the rings to be seated, which is the main break-in factor on newer engines with roller cams, so I'm changing to full synthetic then.
Yee Fn Haw.
Sponsored

 
 


Top