Oil change via extraction method vs. drain plug

[BulldogBear]

I'm due for my first oil change and will probably use the extraction method, and then pull the drain plug to see if anything else comes out.

I have zero knowledge about the 2.7l in my Bronco (never been a Ford guy), but since I noticed the oil filter is topside, and since I've changed the oil in my 2000 Mercedes G500 via the vacuum/extraction method for over 15 years, I thought I'd throw the question out there...

Just curious if anyone else has used this method, and, more curiously, after watching several "FIRST BRONCO OIL CHANGE!" videos on the youtubez, no one seems to get anywhere near 7 quarts out, or can fit 7 quarts back in...

Curious to hear any thoughts...

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[da_jokker]

I believe it has been said the dipstick doesn't have a clear opening into the pan. This is the reason why the 15+ minute wait to check the level after you refill the oil.

I mean I guess you could try it, but sounds like you're not going to be able to get the tube far enough down into the pan.

 

[daddycreswell]

I'm due for my first oil change and will probably use the extraction method, and then pull the drain plug to see if anything else comes out.

I have zero knowledge about the 2.7l in my Bronco (never been a Ford guy), but since I noticed the oil filter is topside, and since I've changed the oil in my 2000 Mercedes G500 via the vacuum/extraction method for over 15 years, I thought I'd throw the question out there...

Just curious if anyone else has used this method, and, more curiously, after watching several "FIRST BRONCO OIL CHANGE!" videos on the youtubez, no one seems to get anywhere near 7 quarts out, or can fit 7 quarts back in...

Curious to hear any thoughts...

What's the advantages of changing the oil this way?

 

[VelocityBronco]

Let us know how this works out. I was curious how extraction would go on this motor. Would be nice not to have to drop the skid plate every time.
If the models of the pan/dipstick area I have seen are right, I don't think extraction is going to work well. It may get some oil out, but dipstick tube doesn't seem to go direct to the pan, more to the side, if that makes sense.
I have been 50/50 for Ecoboost engines with using extraction method...works great on my '19 Explorer 3.5, but only got half the oil out of my '12 F-150 3.5.

 

[VelocityBronco]

What's the advantages of changing the oil this way?

Don't have to get under the vehicle at all to drain the oil. Filter is on top, so all the work is done from above, and its clean, no mess.

 

[Portapot]

There is a thread in here, i will post the link if I can find it, where I asked the same question. Apparently the 2.7 is engineered in such a way that the dipstick does not directly enter the oil pan. It sits in a tube with a hole in it to the lower portion of the pan, and then drops another inch or two and the extractor cannot get to that chamber. Therefore it looks like you will probably miss like 2 quarts of oil, just guessing. I have an extractor also and thought it would be ideal to never have to get under the 2.7 to do the oil change as the filter is on top. Looks like that approach may not work very well.

 

[Portapot]

There is a thread in here, i will post the link if I can find it, where I asked the same question. Apparently the 2.7 is engineered in such a way that the dipstick does not directly enter the oil pan. It sits in a tube with a hole in it to the lower portion of the pan, and then drops another inch or two and the extractor cannot get to that chamber. Therefore it looks like you will probably miss like 2 quarts of oil, just guessing. I have an extractor also and thought it would be ideal to never have to get under the 2.7 to do the oil change as the filter is on top. Looks like that approach may not work very well.

Here is that image:

 

[BulldogBear]

Portapot - Thank you for the information - so looks like extraction is a no-go.

I may still do extraction to get out ~4-5 qts so I won't have the volcano-blast like eruption when the drain plug is removed.

I'll try to document my experiment and report back.

Daddycreswell - regarding the advantages of the extraction method, as VelocityBronco mentioned, here are a few:

• With the oil filter on top, without having to remove the drain plug on the bottom, you have virtually no mess or drips anywhere. I could basically wear a tuxedo and change the oil in my Mercedes.
• In my experience, it's quicker using the extraction method.
• You don't have to remove/replace the skid plate.
• In my previous BMW and current Mercedes, I get more oil out using the extraction method than via the drain plug. Same for the diff-housing on my Mercedes. You can find several YouTube videos showing why, for some makes/models, the extraction method consistently removes more oil than draining.

 

[4wJive]

I'm due for my first oil change and will probably use the extraction method, and then pull the drain plug to see if anything else comes out.

I have zero knowledge about the 2.7l in my Bronco (never been a Ford guy), but since I noticed the oil filter is topside, and since I've changed the oil in my 2000 Mercedes G500 via the vacuum/extraction method for over 15 years, I thought I'd throw the question out there...

Just curious if anyone else has used this method, and, more curiously, after watching several "FIRST BRONCO OIL CHANGE!" videos on the youtubez, no one seems to get anywhere near 7 quarts out, or can fit 7 quarts back in...

Curious to hear any thoughts...

 

[4wJive]

I would suggest always pulling the drain plug to remove the oil instead of sucking it out. That way you are more likely to remove dirt, shavings etc since it is all flowing out the lowest part of the pan. Also, with a turbo engine, change the oil more frequently and not pushing the oil life. Another tip is do not ignore a turbo cool down period of at least a minute before shutting down the engine after driving it. I usually do this by driving slow down my block before pulling into the driveway…..just my 2 cents

 

[BulldogBear]

I would suggest always pulling the drain plug to remove the oil instead of sucking it out. That way you are more likely to remove dirt, shavings etc since it is all flowing out the lowest part of the pan. Also, with a turbo engine, change the oil more frequently and not pushing the oil life.

I didn't really looked at the oil pan before my post, but this seems to be the case.

Another tip is do not ignore a turbo cool down period of at least a minute before shutting down the engine after driving it. I usually do this by driving slow down my block before pulling into the driveway…..just my 2 cents

I had no idea turbo cooling was a thing - thanks for the tip! So far I've been babying the engine, even after my break-in period, and my MPG is 18.1 - way better than my G-Wagen's mpg - it almost feels like an economy car!

Semi-related, I've seen posts regarding the similar ecoboost in the F150 and people adding oil catch cans. I've been wondering if it would be a good idea for the Bronco...

 

[VelocityBronco]

I didn't really looked at the oil pan before my post, but this seems to be the case.


I had no idea turbo cooling was a thing - thanks for the tip! So far I've been babying the engine, even after my break-in period, and my MPG is 18.1 - way better than my G-Wagen's mpg - it almost feels like an economy car!

Semi-related, I've seen posts regarding the similar ecoboost in the F150 and people adding oil catch cans. I've been wondering if it would be a good idea for the Bronco...

Turbo cool down isn't really a thing with the Ecoboost. The turbos are water cooled and they still flow coolant over them after shutdown. Ford did this to prevent the oil cook-off issues of older turbo engines that were oil cooled only.
It's not a great idea to redline and than park it, but also don't need to do anything special when turning it off.
Catch cans- the 2.7 is Direct Injection and Port Injection or DI/PI. Important part of that is that fresh fuel is washing over the valves to help keep them clean and reduce build up. A Can will almost eliminate any recirculating of oil into the intake, so it's a good thing, but not really necessary on the 2.7. IMO.

 

[Carbon Bronco]

What about installing a Fumoto valve if you're worried about the oil volcano? Also, most aren't likely to get full capacity amount the from the first oil change with a new engine let alone an eco boost if they haven't been topping off during break in. Wife's eco boost escape burned through a qt and my escape with a 2.5L did the same before the first 3000k miles.

 

[4wJive]

I didn't really looked at the oil pan before my post, but this seems to be the case.


I had no idea turbo cooling was a thing - thanks for the tip! So far I've been babying the engine, even after my break-in period, and my MPG is 18.1 - way better than my G-Wagen's mpg - it almost feels like an economy car!

Semi-related, I've seen posts regarding the similar ecoboost in the F150 and people adding oil catch cans. I've been wondering if it would be a good idea for the Bronco...

Turbo cooling-Its to cool the bearings so oil does not bake onto the bearing surfaces to get max life out of the turbos, turbos can get really hot. Turbo charged airplanes require this before shutdown and other turbine planes idle for a period before shutdown too for the same reason.
As far as oil catch cans, I would highly recommend it for the 2.3 since it is a direct injected engine. However, Im going to be putting one on my 2.7 since catch cans are only about $20-$30 and is an extra way to keep the oil clean for those turbos.

 

[Lurker B6G]

Here is that image:

Interesting that they call that a check valve. My guess is that it is just a flow restrictor. If it were in fact a check valve, oil would flow into the dipstick tube, and never go down. You could be driving around with no oil in the pan and it would still read full...

Having said that, a plumbed extraction port would sure be nice on a vehicle with skid plates.

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