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Since we are not getting a white top this year, Any thoughts on just painting the MIC top and fender flares white? Trying to recreate the look of my 68
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Very nice 68. Love the color. Also nice to see a fellow Tarheel in the group.Since we are not getting a white top this year, Any thoughts on just painting the MIC top and fender flares white? Trying to recreate the look of my 68
By the way, Plasti-Dip makes what they claim is a Wimbledon White, the main Bronco white color from the 60s and 70s.This stuff sticks, and if you dont like it or mess up; peel it off.
Personally, after a lot of research, I wouldn't do the Line-X or the Raptor liner paint. They are hard to clean, and white would just be a bad idea for it altogether, which is the color I want.Would any of you do the premium Line-X on them? I feel like that would hold up...
Post a pic of the grille when you do! I would love to see how it turns outPersonally, after a lot of research, I wouldn't do the Line-X or the Raptor liner paint. They are hard to clean, and white would just be a bad idea for it altogether, which is the color I want.
I think I would sand down a lot of the texture with a dual action orbital sander, then rub in some sanding paste with a sanding pad, clean it all up with prep degreaser, spray on about three coats of plastic adhesion promoter, prime it several times (with a flexible surfacer/filler like SEM, PlastiKote, or U-Pol), sand it smooth, maybe hit it with an automotive primer sealer, paint on the basecoat with Wimbledon White, clear coat it, and buff it. It will cost quite a bit in paint, but should be cheaper than having it painted and with more care taken. I just wish I had an experienced friend who had a shop and all the tools to make it go faster.
I may do the grill white first to practice, since that is smaller, smoother, and more cheaply replaced.
You may also need to run a heat gun or torch over the bare plastic. The chemicals they use to seperate the plastic from the molds can impregnate the plastic and bleed out over time if not basically boiled out, bubbling the paint. Sometimes it's not an issue. We'll find out if that will be a problem after the first few people do this.Personally, after a lot of research, I wouldn't do the Line-X or the Raptor liner paint. They are hard to clean, and white would just be a bad idea for it altogether, which is the color I want.
I think I would sand down a lot of the texture with a dual action orbital sander, then rub in some sanding paste with a sanding pad, clean it all up with prep degreaser, spray on about three coats of plastic adhesion promoter, prime it several times (with a flexible surfacer/filler like SEM, PlastiKote, or U-Pol), sand it smooth, maybe hit it with an automotive primer sealer, paint on the basecoat with Wimbledon White, clear coat it, and buff it. It will cost quite a bit in paint, but should be cheaper than having it painted and with more care taken. I just wish I had an experienced friend who had a shop and all the tools to make it go faster.
I may do the grill white first to practice, since that is smaller, smoother, and more cheaply replaced.
Would you personally use a heat gun to do this? How long does it take, and how will you know if it's working? What do you need to do after it's heated? Is there some special cleaning involved after the heating process?You may also need to run a heat gun or torch over the bare plastic. The chemicals they use to seperate the plastic from the molds can impregnate the plastic and bleed out over time if not basically boiled out, bubbling the paint. Sometimes it's not an issue. We'll find out if that will be a problem after the first few people do this.
I used to work at a custom paint shop and I'm going to be doing this. It's not difficult work, but it is a lot of work.
Personally, I would use a torch because it's faster. But if you do it yourself I would recommend a heat gun if you have no experience with this type of surface prep. Slowly move the heat gun around, hitting an area for around 10-15 seconds before moving on. The plastic needs to be hot, but obviously not hot enough to deform it. It may begin to look wet, or it may not, if it looks wet then that spot is done, get away from it and wipe it down pretty quickly. All you're doing is speeding up a process that will happen naturally so if you're nervous about it just take it slow. I use PPG DX330 as a cleaning solution, I wipe everything down just before painting. Use it before you spray each step and just let it dry naturally. It's like a super alcohol so be well ventilated... I've gotten pretty dizzy using it lolWould you personally use a heat gun to do this? How long does it take, and how will you know if it's working? What do you need to do after it's heated? Is there some special cleaning involved after the heating process?