Park Aid Sensor Relocation on Factory/Warn Winch

[sklnbnzaz]

Going to be doing this on my badlands soon. Was there any extensions needed for the factory parking sensors to relocate? Or is there enough slack to bring it to the new location from factory?

I ordered extensions from Rough Country… they make them for one of their bumpers and I called in and they sold me just the extension.

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[Broncory]

Glad I found this thread. I’m about to grab this winch kit on sale from ford for 900.00

 

[kevin.gt]

Glad I found this thread. I’m about to grab this winch kit on sale from ford for 900.00

That’s a crazy good price

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

Any engineers out there? Is the front of the winch plate like the top flange of an L-Beam? (And therefore something you would not want to drill between the two mounting points?) And the plate top itself like the web? (Which can be drilled up to 24% of the span of in the middle?)

 

[Broncory]

Any engineers out there? Is the front of the winch plate like the top flange of an L-Beam? (And therefore something you would not want to drill between the two mounting points?) And the plate top itself like the web? (Which can be drilled up to 24% of the span of in the middle?)

Not an engineer, officially. But I have “posed” as one for 25 years in the construction industry. This item is not structural, to any extent of consideration, for a 70lb static load. It’s 3/16 steel plating and you’re drilling 2, 1” holes.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

Not an engineer, officially. But I have “posed” as one for 25 years in the construction industry. This item is not structural, to any extent of consideration, for a 70lb static load. It’s 3/16 steel plating and you’re drilling 2, 1” holes.

Isn’t it between the vehicle weight and the 10000lbs winch pull force. i.e., the winch is apply a forward force to the plate, which it turn applies the force to the connections into the frame horn.

Looking at where JCR has drilled the hole in their plate, it would seem to be OK. Just thinking this through. (And RC doesn’t seem to have much flange at all.) Maybe the plate itself is the primary structure.

(I’m asking these questions with concern before drilling holes in something that was engineered / not trying to be critical.)

 

[Broncory]

Interesting thought. I’m curious if there are any real structural engineers in here, that can weigh in. Mine is sitting in the garage, waiting for me to get off my butt and do this exact thing. Cobalt step bit and carbide hole saw are both sitting on top of the box.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

@Jeff587 -

1) Did you reuse the factory plastic outer rim bezel thingy?

2) How tight was getting that bull bar bolt and nut back on so close to the sensor?

I like how your way allows wire tuck, but if you did it over again would you recommend your location or the green circle location?

 

[TCC]

@Jeff587 -

1) Did you reuse the factory plastic outer rim bezel thingy?

2) How tight was getting that bull bar bolt and nut back on so close to the sensor?

I like how your way allows wire tuck, but if you did it over again would you recommend your location or the green circle location?

I was looking at this also. I purchased the RC sensor relocation extensions and mounts. The mounts are much bigger that what is pictured here And requires a 1.250 hole which concerns me how close to the edge the hole would be. Curious what the pictured sensor mounts are.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

I was looking at this also. I purchased the RC sensor relocation extensions and mounts. The mounts are much bigger that what is pictured here And requires a 1.250 hole which concerns me how close to the edge the hole would be. Curious what the pictured sensor mounts are.

OK - here’s what I did:
1) I decided the holes should go inside the extra welded bar underneath the winch plate / away from the mounting bolts.
2) I removed and reused the factory plastic mounting rings - they were easy to remove, but I had to trim off three little plastic ridges that key the orientation (you can see the cutouts for the in the pic).
3) I drilled with a 1-1/8” hole saw. It’s slightly big. Hard to measure now, but I am guessing the original is 28 mm.
4) I used the @Turn Offroad relocation bracket. Pushing all the way down on the mounting slots it still hits the bull bar and requires a little bolting down to bend into place. (Based on my image distortion and more downward angle, looks like @Mountains2Metal or @DV8offroad have a better fit for the bull bar.) [edit] @DV8offroad bracket installed and there is no interference with the bull bar.
5) Try not to pop the camera out of its plastic housing, mine is not staying popped back in / had to wrap it in electrical tape to jamb it to stay.

[edit] - there is also this on Etsy which I probably would have done.

 

[TCC]

Good info, thanks. I took advantage of the Ford install price so had a dealer do the winch install, glad I did. I provided them the RC sensor extensions So they pulled the sensors through the old holes (leaving the retainers) and zip-tied them to the bull bar. Got it home and relocated the camera no problem with the MtM kit but went to drill for the sensors and noticed the RC retainers are WAY too big. Another member pointed me to the retainers Metal Cloak offers. Shipped today so hopefully they same as the OEM retainers. They only require a ~1” hole. We’ll see.

 

[Broncory]

Good info, thanks. I took advantage of the Ford install price so had a dealer do the winch install, glad I did. I provided them the RC sensor extensions So they pulled the sensors through the old holes (leaving the retainers) and zip-tied them to the bull bar. Got it home and relocated the camera no problem with the MtM kit but went to drill for the sensors and noticed the RC retainers are WAY too big. Another member pointed me to the retainers Metal Cloak offers. Shipped today so hopefully they same as the OEM retainers. They only require a ~1” hole. We’ll see.

I would have taken advantage of the install price as well. I have the capable bumper, so they won’t touch it. So I’m going to get the cutting wheel and go to town to make it work with that

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