- First Name
- Eric
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2022
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 95
- Reaction score
- 259
- Location
- SE Michigan
- Vehicle(s)
- 17 Focus RS NB
- Your Bronco Model
- Big Bend
- Thread starter
- #1
Good evening,
This is less of a write-up on the install and more of a review. I'm on my third iteration of trying to improve the audio system on my '22 Big Bend 4 door, and @plugnplaykits came in clutch with a recommendation for a setup.
My first attempt was using Joe at Plugnplaykits' pre-terminated wiring harness to add a Kicker 46CXA6605T 5 channel to my stock setup. That amp was rated at 65w x 4, 150w x1 (4 ohm RMS). It improved the volume, but really sounded like garbage beyond 3/4 volume. I added the Kicker CS 4" speakers to the dash and rear pods, with Kicker CS 6.5" to the kick panels. For the sub, I went with a Kicker Comp 8" in a stock sub "box" that I found on ebay. It was better than stock, but still not what I was expecting.
In an attempt to give more "tune-ability", I switched the amp to the Alpine PXE-C80-88. That lowered the wattage to my regular speakers to 50, but allowed me to run all 6 speakers separately, instead of having the dash and kick speakers wired in parallel. That setup did allow me to tune a lot more in-depth and adjust to my particular taste. But in the long run, the drop in power was too much for me and I always had to run at full volume on the expressway.
That brings me to my latest iteration. I called Joe at @plugnplaykits and asked him what he would recommend. I told him that I was planning on running the Kicker CS in the dash still, but I was going to switch the kick panels to a mid-bass Morel 6.5" (that was a part of a component set), and a set of 6.75" Morel 2-ways in aftermarket pods in the rear. I told him I wanted to get the Stinger tailgate box and mount the amps where the stock subwoofer box was. He suggested the following:
For the dash 4" speakers (rated for 65w RMS), the Musway P2. For the 6.5/6.75" speakers in the kick panels and pods respectively, the Musway M4+ DSP amp (to keep the ability to tune, but also double my RMS power. Lastly, to run the Stinger/ Audiocontrol sub, the Musway One.600 mono amp. I was a little hesitant, because I hadn't really had any experience with the brand before. However, a little look around their website and reading a few reviews online had me sold. Joe set me up with a package that included a loop-back harness to run the M4+ off the factory speaker outputs, then feed the amplified signal back to the speakers using the stock wiring.
The P2 is driven by the DSP in the M4+, since there are 2 sets of DSP outputs for expansion. The other set of RCA outputs is going to the One.600 for a subwoofer channel. For power, I ran 1/0 cable from under the hood, down the driver's side and under the door trim. It's a huge wire, but it fits under the trim without issue. I ran it to the flip-cover behind the rear seats, across to the passenger side, and terminated it in the rear quarter trim. The ground side is handled by the factory ground location. The 1/0 wire is connected to a 3 way distribution block that feeds 8ga to both the M4+ and the One.600, and 12ga to the P2. This is mirrored on the ground side with the same sized wiring in black.
Joe's t-harness was connected to the ACM behind the HVAC controls and run down the passenger side door trim. I also ran the adjustable bass knob wiring and the separate speaker wire for the dash speakers down the same path.
The amps and power distribution are mounted to an MTI Accoustics amp rack that fits where the stock subwoofer would go. It's a fairly heavy and sturdy piece of plastic, so it's literally a blank slate for adding your own setup. There's plenty of room behind the trim panel for the 3 amps, and room behind the amp rack for all of the associated wiring.
So, my install isn't as physically clean as someone who spent $10k having it professionally done. But then again, I certainly didn't pay that much.
Verdict:
So was it worth the change? Was it worth the time to rip out all the other stuff and mount this?
Short answer; hell yes.
I can be as obnoxious as I want now, with a decently sized and powered subwoofer. I can also cruise between Detroit and Louisville with all the windows down and still have my music as clear as listening through headphones. The Musway DSP software was incredibly easy to use, and the hardware is top-notch quality. I'm far from disappointed, bordering on elated. I'm one of those crazy folk that listen to every genre of music, and it all sounds amazing now.
That being said, if you're ever in need of a change, whether it's a package deal for a complete overhaul or just piecing together a new sound, give Joe at @plugnplaykits a call. He'll get you set up with a beautiful sounding system, and as long as you have basic knowledge on installing it, you can run a great setup like this!
This is less of a write-up on the install and more of a review. I'm on my third iteration of trying to improve the audio system on my '22 Big Bend 4 door, and @plugnplaykits came in clutch with a recommendation for a setup.
My first attempt was using Joe at Plugnplaykits' pre-terminated wiring harness to add a Kicker 46CXA6605T 5 channel to my stock setup. That amp was rated at 65w x 4, 150w x1 (4 ohm RMS). It improved the volume, but really sounded like garbage beyond 3/4 volume. I added the Kicker CS 4" speakers to the dash and rear pods, with Kicker CS 6.5" to the kick panels. For the sub, I went with a Kicker Comp 8" in a stock sub "box" that I found on ebay. It was better than stock, but still not what I was expecting.
In an attempt to give more "tune-ability", I switched the amp to the Alpine PXE-C80-88. That lowered the wattage to my regular speakers to 50, but allowed me to run all 6 speakers separately, instead of having the dash and kick speakers wired in parallel. That setup did allow me to tune a lot more in-depth and adjust to my particular taste. But in the long run, the drop in power was too much for me and I always had to run at full volume on the expressway.
That brings me to my latest iteration. I called Joe at @plugnplaykits and asked him what he would recommend. I told him that I was planning on running the Kicker CS in the dash still, but I was going to switch the kick panels to a mid-bass Morel 6.5" (that was a part of a component set), and a set of 6.75" Morel 2-ways in aftermarket pods in the rear. I told him I wanted to get the Stinger tailgate box and mount the amps where the stock subwoofer box was. He suggested the following:
For the dash 4" speakers (rated for 65w RMS), the Musway P2. For the 6.5/6.75" speakers in the kick panels and pods respectively, the Musway M4+ DSP amp (to keep the ability to tune, but also double my RMS power. Lastly, to run the Stinger/ Audiocontrol sub, the Musway One.600 mono amp. I was a little hesitant, because I hadn't really had any experience with the brand before. However, a little look around their website and reading a few reviews online had me sold. Joe set me up with a package that included a loop-back harness to run the M4+ off the factory speaker outputs, then feed the amplified signal back to the speakers using the stock wiring.
The P2 is driven by the DSP in the M4+, since there are 2 sets of DSP outputs for expansion. The other set of RCA outputs is going to the One.600 for a subwoofer channel. For power, I ran 1/0 cable from under the hood, down the driver's side and under the door trim. It's a huge wire, but it fits under the trim without issue. I ran it to the flip-cover behind the rear seats, across to the passenger side, and terminated it in the rear quarter trim. The ground side is handled by the factory ground location. The 1/0 wire is connected to a 3 way distribution block that feeds 8ga to both the M4+ and the One.600, and 12ga to the P2. This is mirrored on the ground side with the same sized wiring in black.
Joe's t-harness was connected to the ACM behind the HVAC controls and run down the passenger side door trim. I also ran the adjustable bass knob wiring and the separate speaker wire for the dash speakers down the same path.
The amps and power distribution are mounted to an MTI Accoustics amp rack that fits where the stock subwoofer would go. It's a fairly heavy and sturdy piece of plastic, so it's literally a blank slate for adding your own setup. There's plenty of room behind the trim panel for the 3 amps, and room behind the amp rack for all of the associated wiring.
So, my install isn't as physically clean as someone who spent $10k having it professionally done. But then again, I certainly didn't pay that much.
Verdict:
So was it worth the change? Was it worth the time to rip out all the other stuff and mount this?
Short answer; hell yes.
I can be as obnoxious as I want now, with a decently sized and powered subwoofer. I can also cruise between Detroit and Louisville with all the windows down and still have my music as clear as listening through headphones. The Musway DSP software was incredibly easy to use, and the hardware is top-notch quality. I'm far from disappointed, bordering on elated. I'm one of those crazy folk that listen to every genre of music, and it all sounds amazing now.
That being said, if you're ever in need of a change, whether it's a package deal for a complete overhaul or just piecing together a new sound, give Joe at @plugnplaykits a call. He'll get you set up with a beautiful sounding system, and as long as you have basic knowledge on installing it, you can run a great setup like this!
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