Pros and cons of factory hitch vs. aftermarket?

[Mustang Mike]

The factory hitch is better at towing stuff in 2025 when you finally get your 21 Bronco!

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[dcmdon]

Not having to deal with a poorly installed wiring is the number one reason not to go with aftermarket

Its only poorly installed if you pay a hack to do it.

I've always installed my own hitches. The reason to get a factory "tow package" is usually to get a larger alternator and/or larger ATF cooler.

If its just a receiver hitch and a wiring harness, there is less reason to go factory.

One other thing. Most modern cars have a plug under the cargo area where you can plug in a factory tow harness. So even if you do it yourself, you are rarely splicing wires into lighting circuits these days. You just overpay for the $50 harness at the dealer and plug it in.

I have always purchased my hitches direct from Hidden Hitch and they always bolted up flawlessly.

 

[ArrickSports]

Is there any reason to do factory hitch vs. aftermarket? Pros/cons?

Fit and finish will always be better from factory. I worked for a company that designed hitches and towing products and typically the designer won't have native CAD to work on. They end up measuring an actual vehicle with 3D scan and then back generating the CAD to design with. They may design for say the Big Bend (because that is what they can get ahold of) and then find after the fact that there is something on the Badlands that will interfere or vice versa. Additionally the wiring harness as has been noted, typically doesn't have its own dedicated socket in the hitch so it has to wrap around something and is subject to additional wear and tear.

I have installed a few of the hitches and wiring harnesses available from my former employer and will be opting for the Towing package with my Bronco order.

 

[dcmdon]

I can’t believe it doesn’t tow more. I mean I get it, but seriously I had a keep liberty that towed more.

There are a lot of things that go into a tow rating. The fact that this is based on a truck, has a solid rear axel and plenty of power suggest to me that the truck is very very underrated.

Maybe some $100 airbags and a transmission oil cooler will be needed. But that stuff is easy.

I'm not talking about setting it up to tow 10,000 lbs. But more like making it easy to tow 4000 lbs.

My 3200 lb Subaru WRX SiT used to tow 3000 lbs effortlessly. And its wheel bearings were probably 1/2 the size of the Broncos. ha.

My Volvo sedan is rated to tow 1750 kg, or 3850 lbs for gods sake.

 

[josedirte]

I can see why that particular installation might not be capable of more weight, but I can also see easy ways to increase the strength and rigidity of where the trailer tow hitch mounts in order to increase it's capability significantly. It looks like they designed the section to that weight parameter (3500#) and otherwise kept that section as low weight as practical. It's not "weak", but it's not nearly as strong as it could be with some simple bracing. Just two cross braces to triangulate the rear frame rail with the frame sides would increase the strength enormously.

I would think the vehicle tow rating would be calculated with transmission, brake and driveline load capabilities.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

I would think the vehicle tow rating would be calculated with transmission, brake and driveline load capabilities.

Diesel gladiator had its tow rating reduced vs the 3.6 because of engine cooling. They weren't able to cool the engine enough when towing more than 6k lbs.

 

[josedirte]

Diesel gladiator had its tow rating reduced vs the 3.6 because of engine cooling. They weren't able to cool the engine enough when towing more than 6k lbs.

had a 2008

Diesel gladiator had its tow rating reduced vs the 3.6 because of engine cooling. They weren't able to cool the engine enough when towing more than 6k lbs.

Had a 2008 Porsche Cayenne pulling a 2015 North River 2700 OS, at time of purchase the dealer said tow capacity was 7700lbs. Ha Ha made to the first corner brakes were over loaded wife was impressed ,nothing like a kidney shot as you are in the shoulder trying to wow er up. Will not be pulling any kind of a load with a SUV.

 

[mpeugeot]

I would think the vehicle tow rating would be calculated with transmission, brake and driveline load capabilities.

Yes, I would normally think that too; but, the 12" rotors at all 4 corners, the 10R60, the Dana M210, and 2.7 or 2.3 engines are all capable of much more towing than 3500 lbs.

 

[The Pope]

All of these comments about the Tow Rating have already been discussed it SEVERAL THREADS.....

Please go to those threads and read through them and add you comments as to the Tow Rating there.

This thread is about getting the Factory Tow Hitch or going Aftermarket.

Sooooooo....... to HOPEFULLY get this thread Back On Track........

Is comes down to just a few things to consider...
1)Do you Ever feel that you'd ever need the 7 Pin Connector of the Factory Package?
--If yes, get the Factory Package because the Extra Wiring is already there for the Trailer Brake Controller.
--If no, then Aftermarket would be more than adequate.
2)Bike Rack or Cargo Rack only usage, Aftermarket will be more than adequate.
AND...
3)Resale, yes, it can effect resale value.

That's basically it.

 

[Jmax]

In talking with my dealer yesterday he suggested the low tow rating is likely due to the off-road suspension. He said for short distance it is likely okay to tow more (ie pulling a small boat out of the lake and up to the garage for storage), but the shocks will tell you real quick how much they can handle.

does this sound correct? If so, the suspension/springs/... must have some kind of rating.

I am not one to follow the exact Ford advice because they won’t allow a travel rack or many other accessories(originally the sound reading liner) on BL SAS because of the extra weight of the armor. Or at least that is what I am told. Sounds ridiculous to me. If I take 3 heavy friends or buy salt for a water softener that would put it way over weight as well.

 

[mpeugeot]

In talking with my dealer yesterday he suggested the low tow rating is likely due to the off-road suspension.

does this sound correct? If so, the suspension/springs/... must have some kind of rating.

Actually, ya, I can see how the softer suspension would limit overall ability to tow, especially when you consider the amount of sag from the tongue weight.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

In talking with my dealer yesterday he suggested the low tow rating is likely due to the off-road suspension. He said for short distance it is likely okay to tow more (ie pulling a small boat out of the lake and up to the garage for storage), but the shocks will tell you real quick how much they can handle.

does this sound correct? If so, the suspension/springs/... must have some kind of rating.

I am not one to follow the exact Ford advice because they won’t allow a travel rack or many other accessories(originally the sound reading liner) on BL SAS because of the extra weight of the armor. Or at least that is what I am told. Sounds ridiculous to me. If I take 3 heavy friends or buy salt for a water softener that would put it way over weight as well.

Exact reason why the Raptor tow capacity is significantly lower than a regular supercrew f150 w/ same 10speed trans and less powered 3.5EB.

 

[ilbastarge]

This topic has been discussed ad nauseam...

....all I will say is, if you are at all interested in the 7-pin connector, or adding a trailer brake controller, you should just get the factory package.

If you are NOT interested in any of that, it will most certainly be cheaper to do it aftermarket... but you have to wait for aftermarket to be available, and you have to weigh how much work you want to do yourself and whether that time is worth it to you.

There might be an unannounced "tow/haul" mode as well. Assuming that the mode exists then it would only be available when the factory kit is purchased.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

Maybe I missed it somewhere in a. thread but did anyone notice the brake controller listed under Bronco accessories? It's the redarc tow pro which is what I was planning on moving over from our grand Cherokee, which means I should only need the new ford harness.

 

[Brianstrange]

Upgrading from 4 pin to 7 pin is a very easy task. The difference is the addition of 12V+, Electric Brake and Reverse wire. Seeing that the 4 pin Ford accessory is available right now, the addition of the other three is relatively easy from there. If you're someone with good electrical wiring skills, and capable of proper dis-assembly and reassembly of interior components, I wouldn't be concerned. I would not suggest doing this if you don't understand how relays should be wired, proper routing of wires etc.... I would also not suggest sending this to a nationwide hitch installer due to my questioning their quality often. All of this is said without knowledge of Ford having backup assist etc built into their system. If they do, aftermarket will not equal the OEM setup. If there are no add ons, it will equal OEM if properly installed. I ordered both the Bronco 4 pin harness and the hitch. The harness is an in stock part, available now, and works on many models. The hard hitch assembly is not available yet.

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