Just a quick search here. Nothing elaborate.
"heater pads" would have been a better term than "panels".
They install under the factory seat fabric.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...DM1oOUCXaLhl4FN1YcuwF3THjaTxy-eBoCfJAQAvD_BwE
How about some Corbeau's...
https://www.quadratec.com/products/24222_9001.htm
then I might be back in the Base model with sasq pckg
I can see a lot of potential buyers doing similar! I'm not going Manual for a couple undeniable reasons so that is not a factor but the flooring (spray out interior) is a strong consideration factor!Yeah, I could be too. I want the BD with gears and front axle. I don't think I want to pay for the Badlands to get it. The base squatch might give me everything I want except the rubber floor, and I bet I can figure that out on my own.
I'm probably going to build 5 or 6 different Broncos. Print them out and pour over them every night until December.
edit to say, wait a minute, I can't do squatch cause I want the MT.
No word on the actual transmission gear ratios for the TRX right now, which would matter when you're talking about effective torque to the ground. I suspect they don't want to multiply that 650ft-lb of torque too many times for fear of absolutely shredding the studs off of the wheel hubs.Just browsing the build tool for that RAM trx.. so it comes with 34.6” tires and 3.55 gear ratio... so why all the talk on bronco needing 4.46-4.7? What’s really needed? Is it the 700hp that eliminates the gearing need on the ram?
I'd consider the auto 4wd a must-have for on-road driving in snowy conditions. This position tends to rile people up who don't seem to understand that a computer variably adjusting power distribution thousands of times per second can somehow be more responsive than their dumb right foot.And the transfer case is moot in that case as well. The "auto" part of the 4wd is really quite benign.
A great article clearly spelling out the differences is here: Understanding The 4WD In Your Ford
Heretic! Next you are going to tell me that ABS does a better job of modulating brakes against lockup than my good old fashioned, tried and true "pump the brakes" method. Oh, gotta run, there's kids on my lawn I need to go shake my fist at.I'd consider the auto 4wd a must-have for on-road driving in snowy conditions. This position tends to rile people up who don't seem to understand that a computer variably adjusting power distribution thousands of times per second can somehow be more responsive than their dumb right foot.
Ever since them dang ol' distributors started automatically adjusting my spark advance, nobody remembers how to drive anymore.Heretic! Next you are going to tell me that ABS does a better job of modulating brakes against lockup than my good old fashioned, tried and true "pump the brakes" method. Oh, gotta run, there's kids on my lawn I need to go shake my fist at.
In your scenario, you would be manually operating the car in 4H and have that exact ability safely. Just without it sometimes being in or out of 4wd.I'd consider the auto 4wd a must-have for on-road driving in snowy conditions. This position tends to rile people up who don't seem to understand that a computer variably adjusting power distribution thousands of times per second can somehow be more responsive than their dumb right foot.
True enough! I don't smoke yet always keep a matchbook in the glove box for adjusting points. Do people know what points are anymore?Ever since them dang ol' distributors started automatically adjusting my spark advance, nobody remembers how to drive anymore.
The Midwest spends a good portion of the year with partial snow cover on some roads, or with bridges that freeze over when the rest of the road is just fine, or the occasional rain that turns to sleet that starts to freeze. In all of those conditions I would not be in 4H, since it's NOT meant for paved roads. I wouldn't switch into 4H before every potentially slick bridge, I wouldn't switch into 4H before hitting every drift that's blown over an otherwise dry road. But in all of those conditions, I'd DEFINITELY be in 4A, as conditions can change quickly and the ability of the vehicle to send power exactly where it needs to at exactly the right time is a HUGE confidence builder for driving in adverse conditions.In your scenario, you would be manually operating the car in 4H and have that exact ability safely. Just without it sometimes being in or out of 4wd.
In that scenario the only advantage of auto-4wd would be if you lacked the situational awareness to think "It's snowing.... I should be in 4wd" or were a quadruple amputee and have to save button-clicks whenever possible.
This is completely untrue. Regardless of what sales brochures say 4A xfer cases do nothing different than the old stick that came through the floor. Take the xfer case apart and you will find a basket clutch and electromagnet getup that performs the exact same function as the 4 lock dog clutch. Its just a way to have a computer shift it...nothing more. It can't "take from Peter to pay Paul" in any kind of traction condition. It locks the front and rear driveshafts together when their relative speed is off by whatever amount the computer is programmed for.On top of that, 4A isn't just an on/off switch for 4H, it varies power transfer where it's needed. So it's still functionally superior to straight 4H, especially in conditions where traction constantly varies aka slippery paved roads.
Just browsing the build tool for that RAM trx.. so it comes with 34.6” tires and 3.55 gear ratio... so why all the talk on bronco needing 4.46-4.7? What’s really needed? Is it the 700hp that eliminates the gearing need on the ram?