Okay. Let me look into it after work. This is a 4 door correct?It's reading open (OL)
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Okay. Let me look into it after work. This is a 4 door correct?It's reading open (OL)
No, 2 door...Okay. Let me look into it after work. This is a 4 door correct?
It looks as if the reel harness just needs a 2.4 Ohm resistor jammed in the pin sockets.Awesome if it works please do a simple writeup, would love to yank those reels that are doing nothing but looking ugly
Yall are trailblazers.
Okay so I just had a chance to look at mine and do some testing. Unfortunately I couldn’t come up with a way to make it work. The buckle itself has a built in Hall effect sensor, but the problem is without seeing that sensor the RCM will continuously throw a fault and I don’t know a way to get around that. So for now it looks like the buckle will just have to stay with the vehicle.No, 2 door...
I buckled up the belt with the reel and it still reads open...
The truck must be passing a voltage thru it to read a measurement, whether buckled, unbuckled or disconnected... The only way you can do that is with varying the resistance
in what world would you be liable?Not touching this due to liability concerns.
A Ford dealer employee helping owners bypass Factory installed safety warnings.in what world would you be liable?
Depending what state you're in, repair advice given by a dealer or independent shop is considered professional advice. I tell someone how to defeat/disable a safety or emission device/system, I could be liable if someone is injured or killed. You can do anything you want to your vehicle but it's a huge no-no for a dealer to knowingly do anything to disable safety or emission systems outside of the direction of the manufacturer. A recall comes out where we temporarily disable something has been OK's by NHTSA and Ford legal. Someone is hurt, Ford is legally bound to provide a defense to the dealer. We do work outside the scope of that, we're on our own.in what world would you be liable?
Gotcha. Didn’t realize you were an employee. Guess that could open you up to lawyers hunting for a settlement. Bummer that’s the world we live in now.A Ford dealer employee helping owners bypass Factory installed safety warnings.
Some idiot reads a thread. Doesn’t follow instructions correctly. Reinstalls rear seat. Gets in a wreck. Passenger Injured because safety belt doesn’t function correctly. Lawyers.
They come out pretty easy. There is a small black trim piece that sits behind the Sport bar where it meets the sidewall. Remove those first.Thread Resurrection!!
I just removed the rear seats from my 2-door. I already understood I had to remove the buckles from the seats and tuck them into the floor. My question is in regards to removing the tensioners. How hard is it to remove those plastic panels? Are they just popped and locked into place because I see no screws?
Just to clarify, did you remove your rear seatbelts/pre-tensioners? I realize the buckles stay plugged in under the floor cover - but I'm interested in removing the rest of the rear belts and pre-tensioners that bolt to the rear cage.They come out pretty easy. There is a small black trim piece that sits behind the Sport bar where it meets the sidewall. Remove those first.
Also note, you will need a couple of resistors to stick in the reel electrical plug so you don't get a code. I believe they need to be 2.4K Ohm....? Not 100%