Replacing 4” speakers on the dash and rear pods.

[jh3113]

Lol no idea why my iPad auto corrected to username. I meant kick panel 6 1/2. What did you use there? Thx

JL Audio C1-650x , which were also a pretty tight fit but worked

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[JRW5574]

I put these in last night. I bent L brackets to make them fit until I have time to make some solid metal brackets. They make a huge difference. I am waiting for my loopback harness to come in before I install my LOC, AMP, and Sub. The Line Output Convert I bought has channel summing so I will not need to have the stereo settings changed.

Can you show me a couple pics of the brackets you bent up? Did you ever find or make solid ones? Looks great, thank you!

 

[DFNMAN]

Can you show me a couple pics of the brackets you bent up? Did you ever find or make solid ones? Looks great, thank you!

There is a picture or two in my build journal.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/thotiana-2-door-basesquatch.35013/

 

[JRW5574]

There is a picture or two in my build journal.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/thotiana-2-door-basesquatch.35013/

Thank you sir!

 

[texasmark04]

I'm thinking of swapping all the dash and rear pods out with Focal ACX 100 from Crutchfield. I have the B&O system, and very underwhelmed with current speakers. Been reading folks who have upgraded and came away impressed with upgrade, said B&O speakers are pretty poor for the LUX upgrade.

 

[vegetarianbarbarian]

I have Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 402 Mk II across the dash and Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 602 Mk II in the kick panels. It sounds great, I would totally do it again.

I did the 4" speakers first and then did the 6" speakers a week later. It was definitely an upgrade on my B&O system, both times.

so the 4inchers fit the center dash location? Crurchfield shows they don’t fit and discontinued?

thank you

 

[Taco2Bronco]

Reviving this old thread…

I just installed the Kicker KS 4” in the dash and rear pods and WOW what a difference! I brought my wife out after I did just the drivers side and did a comparison between the stock speakers. She apologized for making fun of me for spending money on new speakers. It’s night and day. No amp just a 300hz base blocker on the fronts.

I plan to have the dealership flash for the non-existing JBL sound bar in hopes of unlocking the full range of sound but for now it’s well worth the sub $200 total cost.

 

[Badsquatchman]

I have a 2023 BL, HIGH with the new factory (non B&O) sub. Installed Kickers 4” dash and rear and it sounds excellent. I did use kilmat in both areas.

 

[Njchris1968]

I have a 2023 BL, HIGH with the new factory (non B&O) sub. Installed Kickers 4” dash and rear and it sounds excellent. I did use kilmat in both areas.

Good to know I am working on the same but was going with 6.5 in the back. And u decide what to do In the kick. Just wish I could get fuller sound in the rear.

 

[Badsquatchman]

Good to know I am working on the same but was going with 6.5 in the back. And u decide what to do In the kick. Just wish I could get fuller sound in the rear.

Bet that will sound great- let me know- maybe I’ll upgrade later

 

[gaaangs]

After replacing my four 4” speakers I felt like I was missing some bass. I first tried an 8” Kicker Hideaway and it almost gave enough but not quite. The 10” hideaway probably would have worked but it wasn’t available locally. I swapped out the 8” hideaway for a downfiring Kicker RT in 8” and it is perfect. Enough bass to satisfy me without being too much.

I was planning on just putting a sub in the factory enclosure (I think its 8 inches) in the very back - the one where the 7 speaker sub would go. Do you think that would be enough?

 

[gaaangs]

The "built in crossover" separates the tweeter from the main driver (4" mid/bass) only (very small capacitor between them that limits the low frequencies to the tweeter). This has nothing to do with the use of bass blockers (large in line capacitor) which limits the frequencies to the main (4 inch) driver.

I personally like the use of an line capacitor (bass blocker), and there are good reasons to use them. However, the aftermarket speakers are considerably better at making low frequencies (most are rated at 60-75 hz), and this should be the targeted crossover (-3dB) point.

In order to achieve this goal, I plan to double the capacitance provided by Crutchfield's lowest blockers. This is done by using two sets of 150hz blockers in parallel (place two side by side and twist the ends together). This will create a 75hz, -6dB/octave crossover. This will sound almost exactly like having no bass blockers at all. I have found that this is worth the small effort, and I have a pile of non-polar capacitors so this is not a big deal to me.

To be clear, I would never place a 300hz blocker in line with the replacements. I would use 150hz ONLY IF I knew for certain that I did not want the 4 inchers to help with "fill base".

As noted by others, you do not need to use bass blockers. These smaller drivers have mechanical limitations that will help protect them from low frequency damage. Like most things, decide based on your own values.

Quick follow up question for a N00b...

I have the Kicker KS 4 inch speakers installed without bass blockers in the front and back right now. I am going to do the kick panels this weekend. So you are saying I DO NOT need bass blockers for any of the 4 inch speakers? I also have the Kicker Key that I am going to eventually install after I get all the after market speakers in.

Edit - just saw your response further along in the thread...lol

 

[Lurker B6G]

Quick follow up question for a N00b...

I have the Kicker KS 4 inch speakers installed without bass blockers in the front and back right now. I am going to do the kick panels this weekend. So you are saying I DO NOT need bass blockers for any of the 4 inch speakers? I also have the Kicker Key that I am going to eventually install after I get all the after market speakers in.

Edit - just saw your response further along in the thread...lol

I should really have updated this post after I wrote it...

When I wrote it I was not planning to replace the kick panel speakers (6.5"). Therefore I was looking to use the dash speakers to help fill the base (very low freq. bass blockers). At this point I am now where you are and will be replacing the kick panel speakers with upgrades. So I did end up using 300Hz bass blockers since the new kick panel speakers will have no problem handling all of the lower frequecies.

 

[SlpybearTX]

I was planning on just putting a sub in the factory enclosure (I think its 8 inches) in the very back - the one where the 7 speaker sub would go. Do you think that would be enough?

Did you ever drop a sub in the factory location? I have one of the '23s with the sub delete 6 speaker systems. I am planning on adding a sub here as well. Current plan is to drop a 10 kicker hideaway in, but also am considering to pull the factory sub and replace the nonfunctioning amp and speaker.

 

[gaaangs]

Did you ever drop a sub in the factory location? I have one of the '23s with the sub delete 6 speaker systems. I am planning on adding a sub here as well. Current plan is to drop a 10 kicker hideaway in, but also am considering to pull the factory sub and replace the nonfunctioning amp and speaker.

I am going to try and do it this weekend. Theres a great thread on it already. Check this out:

(147) 2023MY Standard Audio (6-speaker) Subwoofer Delete Mandatory and Functional Amps Removed | Page 17 | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community

Basically buy a stock Ford fusion amp, kicker 6.5 sub, and then enable it via forescan. Looks like a good plug n play option.

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