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Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch

KnoxGnater

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This write up will detail my installation of the Rider Graphix Hood bump and side stripe vinyl decals on my Area 51 4 door BL Sasquatch. I've never applied a bumper sticker to a vehicle, let alone a vinyl decal kit. I'm pretty handy though so I gave it a shot. I'm 100% satisfied with the look and the service from Rider Graphix.

First, huge thank you to Brian @Ridergraphix for excellent communication and next day priority shipping. His customer service is the best I've experienced in a long time. Don't even bother looking for cheap off shore kits, support a US business!!

I ordered SKU 00495 (above the body line, lower pin stripe only, key code cutout, radius corner, no custom text). I think it pairs well with the hood bump graphic SKU 00480.

Quality: These things are top notch, excellent thickness and perfect color uniformity. Straight lines, no dimples, print defects, pin holes, odd cuts, etc. I'm not a Vinyl expert, but it seems these are about as thick as you can get without having issues with odd raised edges and trouble bending corners. I have zero durability concerns.

Color: The flat black matches my Bronco badge and the Ford Trim really well. Color is consistent on all pieces.

What you'll Need: The stickers, Isopropyl Alcohol, Dawn classic dish detergent, a large spray bottle, sharpie, tape measure, a pack or two of new, clean microfiber rags. A shady place out the sun or garage.

Installation: Give yourself several hours to complete this job. Between washing the truck like you normally would to remove dirt, several passes wiping down with Isopropyl alcohol and new microfiber towels, then dry fitting it took at least 5 hours. You need to be patient, have a clean work area, be organized, and read the instructions more than once. Go to the website for more FAQ's and tips. Everything you need to know is spelled out.
Key Points:
-A big spray bottle of soapy water is your best friend. As long as its wet, you can keep tweaking the position.
-Use good scissors to trim the decals to about 1/16" outside the vinyl before you start placement (use the tips in the instructions to dry fit them before you stick 'em)
-Mark the squeegee in the kit with the distance between pinstripe and main sticker so you can keep a consistent gap as you apply (once its off the backing and adhesive, the stripe can float until you dry it out/get firm pressure on it. This is a good thing so you can really dial in the gap)
-Be precise. If you have a slight angle at the front of the driver's door, that will be an inch or two at the back of the truck. DON'T RUSH
-Don't trim anything. Center the stripe and wrap the extra inside the doors
-Don't drop it. If you get dirt on the adhesive side, you're done....time to order a new one.
-I started with the drivers door to get the key pad cutout centered. Everything else was referenced from that one. Now measure the gap between the window and the top of the stripe and mark that on your squeegee. That's your reference for the passenger side alignment.
-I measured from the back of the hood to the tip of the rounded edge on the fender decal to keep them consistent from side to side. You can play with where you want that to land, I continued the curve from the hood bump decal in an arc to figure out where I wanted to land the tip of the fender decal.
-The parts that wrap the door won't stick well until they are dry. Be patient, work the bubbles and fluid out of part stuck to the doors....keep the pinstripe level.....then worry about the wrap around the back of the doors sticking after 15-20 minutes. Once its dry, it will stick. Don't get cute and try novel ideas to make it stick....just wait.
-The gap between the front door and front fender is the hardest to get my sausage sized fingers into...I used the squeegee and a screwdriver to carefully guide the stripe around the door, then stuck it on the backside. You may take the door off for better access....I didn't really need to.
- A note about the alcohol: use sparingly and wipe while wet. If you douse it then wait for it to evaporate you haven’t actually removed any grease/wax. Google paint prep cleaning techniques if you want more detail.

That's it. Here's the pics:
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch Bronc1
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch bronc2
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch bronc3
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Deano Bronc

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Great job! Even though you said you've never done it before, still not sure I would give it a try on my own.
 

grayshadow

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Wash with isopropyl alcohol? Why?

Paint supply stores sell a wax and grease remover that is less harsh on fresh paint.

BTW, looks like you did an awesome job.
 
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KnoxGnater

KnoxGnater

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Wash with isopropyl alcohol? Why?

Paint supply stores sell a wax and grease remover that is less harsh on fresh paint.

BTW, looks like you did an awesome job.
I’ll edit for clarity, thanks for pointing that out. I washed it With normal methods, then wiped it down with alcohol and microfiber. Certainly not saturated or left on long enough to dry. The whole point is to wipe when wet to remove the contamination.
 

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This write up will detail my installation of the Rider Graphix Hood bump and side stripe vinyl decals on my Area 51 4 door BL Sasquatch. I've never applied a bumper sticker to a vehicle, let alone a vinyl decal kit. I'm pretty handy though so I gave it a shot. I'm 100% satisfied with the look and the service from Rider Graphix.

First, huge thank you to Brian @Ridergraphix for excellent communication and next day priority shipping. His customer service is the best I've experienced in a long time. Don't even bother looking for cheap off shore kits, support a US business!!

I ordered SKU 00495 (above the body line, lower pin stripe only, key code cutout, radius corner, no custom text). I think it pairs well with the hood bump graphic SKU 00480.

Quality: These things are top notch, excellent thickness and perfect color uniformity. Straight lines, no dimples, print defects, pin holes, odd cuts, etc. I'm not a Vinyl expert, but it seems these are about as thick as you can get without having issues with odd raised edges and trouble bending corners. I have zero durability concerns.

Color: The flat black matches my Bronco badge and the Ford Trim really well. Color is consistent on all pieces.

What you'll Need: The stickers, Isopropyl Alcohol, Dawn classic dish detergent, a large spray bottle, sharpie, tape measure, a pack or two of new, clean microfiber rags. A shady place out the sun or garage.

Installation: Give yourself several hours to complete this job. Between washing the truck, several passes with Isopropyl alcohol and clean rags, and dry fitting it took at least 5 hours. You need to be patient, have a clean work area, be organized, and read the instructions more than once. Go to the website for more FAQ's and tips. Everything you need to know is spelled out.
Key Points:
-A big spray bottle of soapy water is your best friend. As long as its wet, you can keep tweaking the position.
-Use good scissors to trim the decals to about 1/16" outside the vinyl before you start placement (use the tips in the instructions to dry fit them before you stick 'em)
-Mark the squeegee in the kit with the distance between pinstripe and main sticker so you can keep a consistent gap as you apply (once its off the backing and adhesive, the stripe can float until you dry it out/get firm pressure on it. This is a good thing so you can really dial in the gap)
-Be precise. If you have a slight angle at the front of the driver's door, that will be an inch or two at the back of the truck. DON'T RUSH
-Don't trim anything. Center the stripe and wrap the extra inside the doors
-Don't drop it. If you get dirt on the adhesive side, you're done....time to order a new one.
-I started with the drivers door to get the key pad cutout centered. Everything else was referenced from that one. Now measure the gap between the window and the top of the stripe and mark that on your squeegee. That's your reference for the passenger side alignment.
-I measured from the back of the hood to the tip of the rounded edge on the fender decal to keep them consistent from side to side. You can play with where you want that to land, I continued the curve from the hood bump decal in an arc to figure out where I wanted to land the tip of the fender decal.
-The parts that wrap the door won't stick well until they are dry. Be patient, work the bubbles and fluid out of part stuck to the doors....keep the pinstripe level.....then worry about the wrap around the back of the doors sticking after 15-20 minutes. Once its dry, it will stick. Don't get cute and try novel ideas to make it stick....just wait.
-The gap between the front door and front fender is the hardest to get my sausage sized fingers into...I used the squeegee and a screwdriver to carefully guide the stripe around the door, then stuck it on the backside. You may take the door off for better access....I didn't really need to.

That's it. Here's the pics:
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch bronc3
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch bronc3
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch bronc3
Rider did such a great job color matching his graphics with the black parts of the Bronco
 

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This write up will detail my installation of the Rider Graphix Hood bump and side stripe vinyl decals on my Area 51 4 door BL Sasquatch. I've never applied a bumper sticker to a vehicle, let alone a vinyl decal kit. I'm pretty handy though so I gave it a shot. I'm 100% satisfied with the look and the service from Rider Graphix.

First, huge thank you to Brian @Ridergraphix for excellent communication and next day priority shipping. His customer service is the best I've experienced in a long time. Don't even bother looking for cheap off shore kits, support a US business!!

I ordered SKU 00495 (above the body line, lower pin stripe only, key code cutout, radius corner, no custom text). I think it pairs well with the hood bump graphic SKU 00480.

Quality: These things are top notch, excellent thickness and perfect color uniformity. Straight lines, no dimples, print defects, pin holes, odd cuts, etc. I'm not a Vinyl expert, but it seems these are about as thick as you can get without having issues with odd raised edges and trouble bending corners. I have zero durability concerns.

Color: The flat black matches my Bronco badge and the Ford Trim really well. Color is consistent on all pieces.

What you'll Need: The stickers, Isopropyl Alcohol, Dawn classic dish detergent, a large spray bottle, sharpie, tape measure, a pack or two of new, clean microfiber rags. A shady place out the sun or garage.

Installation: Give yourself several hours to complete this job. Between washing the truck like you normally would to remove dirt, several passes wiping down with Isopropyl alcohol and new microfiber towels, then dry fitting it took at least 5 hours. You need to be patient, have a clean work area, be organized, and read the instructions more than once. Go to the website for more FAQ's and tips. Everything you need to know is spelled out.
Key Points:
-A big spray bottle of soapy water is your best friend. As long as its wet, you can keep tweaking the position.
-Use good scissors to trim the decals to about 1/16" outside the vinyl before you start placement (use the tips in the instructions to dry fit them before you stick 'em)
-Mark the squeegee in the kit with the distance between pinstripe and main sticker so you can keep a consistent gap as you apply (once its off the backing and adhesive, the stripe can float until you dry it out/get firm pressure on it. This is a good thing so you can really dial in the gap)
-Be precise. If you have a slight angle at the front of the driver's door, that will be an inch or two at the back of the truck. DON'T RUSH
-Don't trim anything. Center the stripe and wrap the extra inside the doors
-Don't drop it. If you get dirt on the adhesive side, you're done....time to order a new one.
-I started with the drivers door to get the key pad cutout centered. Everything else was referenced from that one. Now measure the gap between the window and the top of the stripe and mark that on your squeegee. That's your reference for the passenger side alignment.
-I measured from the back of the hood to the tip of the rounded edge on the fender decal to keep them consistent from side to side. You can play with where you want that to land, I continued the curve from the hood bump decal in an arc to figure out where I wanted to land the tip of the fender decal.
-The parts that wrap the door won't stick well until they are dry. Be patient, work the bubbles and fluid out of part stuck to the doors....keep the pinstripe level.....then worry about the wrap around the back of the doors sticking after 15-20 minutes. Once its dry, it will stick. Don't get cute and try novel ideas to make it stick....just wait.
-The gap between the front door and front fender is the hardest to get my sausage sized fingers into...I used the squeegee and a screwdriver to carefully guide the stripe around the door, then stuck it on the backside. You may take the door off for better access....I didn't really need to.
- A note about the alcohol: use sparingly and wipe while wet. If you douse it then wait for it to evaporate you haven’t actually removed any grease/wax. Google paint prep cleaning techniques if you want more detail.

That's it. Here's the pics:
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch bronc3
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch bronc3
Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch bronc3
Props on tackling the job yourself on the first try. All it takes is a little time and following the instructions. As with anything else, it is very rewarding to be able to do it yourself!
 

broadicustomworks

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Good, detailed write-up.
good advice.
Couple of pointers for others (because that’s what I do, and enjoy learning stuff from people who give me pointers to make stuff easier):
-I can’t add much, and don’t see anything at all wrong with your methods.
-as far as the ratio of soap and water, this is key to making it “moveable” but yet also not so slick you risk pulling your vinyl out of position with the squeegee. I typically fill my spray bottle with water, about 90% full. Then add a squirt of Joy (or Dawn). You want it to where it just barely colors the water.
-On those gaps between panels you can use a thicker squeegee or even a smooth bondo spreader.
-to check for bubbles or minute creases, get down and look up at the stripe from below, watching the light travel across the surface.
-if any bubbles or creases, you can typically work them out by wrapping your finger in a microfiber and using slight friction. Too much friction and you’ll generate heat and make a shiny spot on your matte black.
Very good write up, and sums it up well for “backyard decal people” like most!
It definitely can and will save money to DIY, plus you get the personal satisfaction of looking back at it and telling yourself “hey, I did that!”
 
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KnoxGnater

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Those are great additions...I used the towel on the finger trick, just forgot to mention it.

To me, the cost of screwing up is insignificant vs. the learning achieved. They come off pretty easy in the first couple of hours if you really don't like it, plus you've not done any damage or lasting effects to the paint.

I also have a much better appreciation for the precision that goes into wrapping, decal application, window tinting, etc. Would I wrap a car? Nope, I'd happily spend the extra $ for a Pro to do it.

I used to have to DIY everything I did out of finnancial need. Luckily my Dad taught me how to do just about anything, and as an Engineer I have the discipline and patience (usually) to go slow and put in the research before beginning a project. At this point in my life, I now ask "Just because I can, does it mean I should?". The answer is no, so I pay the pros for Plumbing, Electrical, etc. :)
 

Big Diamond

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Looks fantastic! It must've felt great to do that yourself.
 

Krieger

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Got a how-to for removing the Badlands badge and adding the retro Bronco lettering? :)
 

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KnoxGnater

KnoxGnater

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Got a how-to for removing the Badlands badge and adding the retro Bronco lettering? :)
The OEM sticker literally peels off quite easily, leaves no residue. I'd say if its colder than the mid 70's out, maybe some light hairdryer just to warm it up a bit?

The Bronco emblems come with a template. The whole thing took 10 minutes.
 

RhodeIslandRed

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It looks great. Good job.

I was in same boat. No experience but determined. Mine took seven hours.

I used naptha to clean as instructions indicated.

And i had the pin stripe on top and bottom which might be the extra time.

I didn't stick anything in the front door gap. I waited an hour until the fender and front door pieces started to dry, then removed the door to wrap the pieces around the edges. That was quick and easy. Sticking a screwdriver in that gap sounds wrong.

I did trim some of the rolled over edges. The gas cap has no overlap.

Like you, I started with the driver door, then front fender, then the rest.

Because the pin striping goes around all three sides on the front fender piece, that was the biggest pain in the ass in my kit.

I definitely recommend trimming the decal and backing around the door handles (or your keypad). I didn't do this on one door and it was a huge challenge.

You need a table or work surface. Indoors will be way better, if possible. A little breeze can screw you up quickly. Just keep spraying that soapy water. Tons!

20210923_171532.jpg
 
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KnoxGnater

KnoxGnater

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It looks great. Good job.

I was in same boat. No experience but determined. Mine took seven hours.

I used naptha to clean as instructions indicated.

And i had the pin stripe on top and bottom which might be the extra time.

I didn't stick anything in the front door gap. I waited an hour until the fender and front door pieces started to dry, then removed the door to wrap the pieces around the edges. That was quick and easy. Sticking a screwdriver in that gap sounds wrong.

I did trim some of the rolled over edges. The gas cap has no overlap.

Like you, I started with the driver door, then front fender, then the rest.

Because the pin striping goes around all three sides on the front fender piece, that was the biggest pain in the ass in my kit.

I definitely recommend trimming the decal and backing around the door handles (or your keypad). I didn't do this on one door and it was a huge challenge.

You need a table or work surface. Indoors will be way better, if possible. A little breeze can screw you up quickly. Just keep spraying that soapy water. Tons!

Ford Bronco Rider Graphix Retro Side Graphics installed on A51 BadSquatch 20210923_171532
That looks great! Nice additions to the tips/tricks as well.
 

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I'm not a fan of adding decals, but I must say that they look nice on your rig.
 
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KnoxGnater

KnoxGnater

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I'm not a fan of adding decals, but I must say that they look nice on your rig.
Thanks, me too. Previously I'd de-badge/decal my rides. These really compliment the Bronco's lines IMHO.
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