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Rock Rails on WildTrak

Ironiguana

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I opted for a black diamond which does not allow for tube steps since the rock rails are standard. My plan is to find someone willing to swap once these hit the streets. I'm sure you'll fine aftermarket or oem takeoffs at some point. Not worth worrying about the order.
I am wanting to do the same thing. Need steps with sasquatch.
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Burndog

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probably a bug in BP. The order guide for WT does NOT list rock rails so that is why the dealer can't do them.

Aftermarket will come out with REAL rock wells soon enough. I think your welds are not even going to be noticed with your kick ass Bronco.

For me, I'm getting the steps temporarily only to hopefully help from door dings until I can get some actual function rails.
Also thinking of the steps for the same reason. I'm trying to find out from the dealer if they are steel or not. Just want to protect those doors.
 

Sighlense

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It was almost like things in the high and Lux packages were not compatible with the rock rails for Wildtrax. I guess it is a glitch in the Matrix.
I think you are right. It did the same thing to me at the dealership. There were a bunch of things it said weren't compatible when i tried adding rock rails. Think i might just wait and see what the market brings.
 
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AU98

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I think you are right. It did the same thing to me at the dealership. There were a bunch of things it said weren't compatible when i tried adding rock rails. Think i might just wait and see what the market brings.
I agree, I am going to go aftermarket.
 

Sighlense

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I agree, I am going to go aftermarket.
It actually works out for me, because i am now going to throw in the Heavy-Duty Modular Front Bumper. šŸ˜ƒ
 

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Dads_bronze_bronco

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Iā€™m curious... whatā€™s wrong with the rails on Badlands?
1) not frame mounted. When frame mounted (or bolted to the body mountthey can support more weight as youā€™re sliding over rocks, etc.
2) they donā€™t have tubes out to the side to provide stand-off protection.

The Rubicon guys drop the rock rails for sliders / side armor if they are planning on using a Rubicon for what it is made to do. (I left the rock rails on mine to cover the pinch seam but you can see how the rail provides stand-off protection getting around trees and rocks. Also, the bolt on step is removable for off-roading.)

Examples:
Ford Bronco Rock Rails on WildTrak E2570B27-D5DC-46EC-9C2C-7B292FABBD4E
Ford Bronco Rock Rails on WildTrak 551A62DA-E917-46FF-AB86-A68F5FF2B7E1
 

Sighlense

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Ford Bronco Rock Rails on WildTrak Step rail
 

GoldenKnight

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In re: to 1, haven't they said each side supports 1.5x the vehicles weight? Realistically does it need to be more than that? I understand it's not as sturdy, but that certainly seems like enough even if it's not the sturdiest option.

2. Those definitely look better, so I do think aftermarket is the best option though.

I personally went with tube steps as that's a feature I'd use more.
 

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Virtual-Chris

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1) not frame mounted. When frame mounted (or bolted to the body mountthey can support more weight as youā€™re sliding over rocks, etc.
2) they donā€™t have tubes out to the side to provide stand-off protection.

The Rubicon guys drop the rock rails for sliders / side armor if they are planning on using a Rubicon for what it is made to do. (I left the rock rails on mine to cover the pinch seam but you can see how the rail provides stand-off protection getting around trees and rocks. Also, the bolt on step is removable for off-roading.)

Examples:
E2570B27-D5DC-46EC-9C2C-7B292FABBD4E.jpeg
551A62DA-E917-46FF-AB86-A68F5FF2B7E1.jpeg
I guess these types of sliders provide more protection from the sides (you slide sideways into a rock) but the stock rock rails will be plenty good in most situations where the issue is clearance underneath.

If youā€™re really concerned about body damage, just remove the doors and fenders.

I suspect those 2nd ones with steps would be more of a liability for getting hung up.

Frame vs body mounting seems like focusing on the wrong thing... regardless of how the stock rails are mounted, the fact they can support the full weight of the vehicle is what matters.
 

Sighlense

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In re: to 1, haven't they said each side supports 1.5x the vehicles weight? Realistically does it need to be more than that? I understand it's not as sturdy, but that certainly seems like enough even if it's not the sturdiest option.

2. Those definitely look better, so I do think aftermarket is the best option though.

I personally went with tube steps as that's a feature I'd use more.
I prefer a lower profile route. Seen some nice powder coated ones on an F-150 but can't for the life of me find them again.
 

Ryuk

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Iā€™m curious... whatā€™s wrong with the rails on Badlands?
IMHO, the only downside is that they don't have more coverage under the Bronco and up the side of the Bronco. I also prefer having a tube welded on, but ABOVE the bottom of the body.
I believe the Ford ones would be more than adequate for the majority of Bronco Owners.

I've had both and I will take properly made BODY mounted rails over frame mounted rails All Day, Every Day. This is what I ran on my last jeep.
Ford Bronco Rock Rails on WildTrak IMG_0128.JPG


They extend under the rocker panel area and they sandwich between the body and the frame mount. Most brands have 5 to 6 points that bolt through the side of the body to a metal panel on the inside of the vehicle.
While these are not the exact brand/model of what I had, this is a really good view of a similar product before installation
Ford Bronco Rock Rails on WildTrak 1615677762724

https://shop.poisonspyder.com/LJ-Ricochet-Rockers-p/15-50-050.htm

When you are rock crawling, every inch of clearance, at every point of the vehicle is important. Eliminating things that can catch on a rock, or worse get caught under the vehicle, and cause you to get hung up, are things to avoid. In this picture,
The rails have reduced the clearance of the vehicle by somewhere between 2-4". On top of that, there are 3 significantly large pockets [if not more that I can't see in this picture] that can result in the top of a rock getting wedged in there.
At that point, the vehicle is 100% stuck and would need a Hi-Lift Style Jack to lift up that side of the vehicle and then winch or try to drive out while on the jack.
Been there, and done that to help out a fellow crawler who was jammed up.

It's much better to have an absolutely flat and smooth surface that can not get caught and slide over all rocks. The smaller your tires and the lower your body is, the more important this becomes.

Edit Add
I really hope Poison Spyder starts making Bronco products.
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