Rock Slide Engineering install question

Herbie

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Not sure if you have seen this, but you might pick up some tips from this as well as to how they ran their wiring. Also, a helpful hint to bolting at 8:17 mark.



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mds5917

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How complicated is the wiring?
I cannot tell you yet, as mine have not shipped. Expecting them by next week as it appears they may ship today. I was apparently the last order of the original buy. I have looked at the instructions they have posted and nothing looks terrible. I'm not sure I want their "big red light' under my dash, so may swap that out, but the Bronco has plenty of room underneath to work. You will need some trim removal tools, and a few hours to spare though.
 

BlueOvalBandit

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How complicated is the wiring?
It's not, pretty much plug and play. Routing across to the passenger side and the off switch are the hardest part and that it just taking time to make it clean.

I'm not sure I want their "big red light'
Mine was green, but YMMV there are some substitutions from what is in the manual to what I got. Body grommets were not the sealed type you need to slit to pass wire through, they were the type just to prevent the wire from rubbing sheet metal. Theoretically it could allow crap into the vehicle under the floor being its just an open hole.
 

Dirty Bronco

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The wash out floor pulls back just like carpet. I finished my solo install about 2 weeks ago, ask me anything. I also posted some install comments in the rockslide group buy thread.

Cliff notes version
  • Wiring harness was WAY long before it hits the branch points.
  • Get some trim removal tools, they are a life saver.
  • You will need to knock some threads off the body bolts, the washer is captive and wont provide enough clearance for the bracket.
  • A semi rigid wire is nice to fish the harness over the gas tank.
  • MAKE SURE THERE'S NO DAMAGE FROM FEDEX DROPPING IT, I didn't catch it until I tried installing and the folded bracket made me fight a lot harder than I needed to before noticing it would never go on with the bracket damage.
  • Some extra 3m molding trim tape is nice to have. If you contaminate the tape, it's done. https://www.amazon.com/3M-03609-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B000BO913C?th=1
  • If you have air tools use them, there over 20 bolts per side. An air ratchet sped things up a TON.
  • It sucks to do it solo.
  • Get a friend.
  • Did I mention the solo install sucks?
Wow, incredible response. Seriously, thank you!

1643917531090.gif
 

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TraumaJoe

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It's not, pretty much plug and play. Routing across to the passenger side and the off switch are the hardest part and that it just taking time to make it clean.


Mine was green, but YMMV there are some substitutions from what is in the manual to what I got. Body grommets were not the sealed type you need to slit to pass wire through, they were the type just to prevent the wire from rubbing sheet metal. Theoretically it could allow crap into the vehicle under the floor being its just an open hole.
I got the same grommets, they are just round rubber donuts and will not prevent water from coming in. I called tech support at RSE and they told me that the company that packages their stuff put the wrong grommets in the kits, they are FedEx’ing me the correct ones.
 

BlueOvalBandit

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I got the same grommets, they are just round rubber donuts and will not prevent water from coming in. I called tech support at RSE and they told me that the company that packages their stuff put the wrong grommets in the kits, they are FedEx’ing me the correct ones.
Well good to know... I dont know if I want to uninstall the wiring to replace them. Tucking the switch wiring away under the dead pedal was a PITA.
 

Dirty Bronco

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I got the same grommets, they are just round rubber donuts and will not prevent water from coming in. I called tech support at RSE and they told me that the company that packages their stuff put the wrong grommets in the kits, they are FedEx’ing me the correct ones.
thanks, I’ll check my boxes when they show up.
 

BroncoKong Jr.

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I got the same grommets, they are just round rubber donuts and will not prevent water from coming in. I called tech support at RSE and they told me that the company that packages their stuff put the wrong grommets in the kits, they are FedEx’ing me the correct ones.
Damn, just checked and got these as well.

edit: They're sending the correct ones
 
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ipongtreat

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I assume you are talking about the door magnet not the door frame magnet/sensor as that is attached to a wire and you wouldn't be able to make any change to that magnet correct?
Correct. Only replaced the short magnets on the doors with longer magnets. Didn’t change the sensors in the door jams in any way.
 

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Herbie

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Correct. Only replaced the short magnets on the doors with longer magnets. Didn’t change the sensors in the door jams in any way.
Thank you for the good idea. I actually ordered extra magnets from RSE for a few bucks (maybe I'll just use yours) to add to the tube doors I am going to get assuming they are ever manufactured. That seems to be a much better solution to doors off (assuming one plans on buying tube doors) than the door delete kit that you have to plug in and unplug every time you want to take the doors off in order to use the steps. When I called RSE to ask them if they thought that was a feasible solution, they said Jeep owners do it and it seems to work. They probably rather not say that since it cuts in to the door delete sales and magnets are only a few bucks, but they are honest people and good to work with so they gave me an honest answer.
 

LatinoComedian

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@BlueOvalBandit or anyone else,

Can someone please post a picture of where you connected to the battery and grounded? I can go directly to the battery but can I also use the positive connector to the fuse box? Also, any tips on going over the gas tank? I keep getting hung up on something and I can't get across. Thanks in advance.

A bit of advice for everyone, check that you have all the parts from RSE. Mine was missing the rear curved brackets so after spending a good amount of time doing wiring, etc, I'm now frozen until RSE seems me the missing parts. I'm going to ask them to overnight them since I will have warm weather in a couple days. Don't want to be doing this in freezing weather.

Finally, thank you for the advice on the grommets, is rather fix that now instead of having to repull my panels disconnect wiring and then reconnect everything. I'll call RSE.
 

BlueOvalBandit

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@LatinoComedian

I went straight to the batteries with the wiring. I didn't see a body ground with a small enough bolt to work with the harness.

PXL_20220214_013649286.jpg
PXL_20220214_013641952.jpg


In regards to getting the wiring over the gas tank, I used a piece of scrap solid copper wire (8-10 ga thick) I had lying around as "fish tape" and pulled the wires from the passenger side. I tried pushing the harness blindly from driver-pass but harness isn't rigid enough to navigate past the unknown crap you can't see above the tank. Or at least I couldn't.

Also smart move with the grommets. I need to either pull the harness or attempt to cut split the grommet on one side.

For the curved bracket, I believe there was a part change. Mine has another bracket without the curve (top left in the picture iirc), went in fine.
PXL_20220123_194053784.jpg
 
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LatinoComedian

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@LatinoComedian

I went straight to the batteries with the wiring. I didn't see a body ground with a small enough bolt to work with the harness.

PXL_20220214_013649286.jpg
PXL_20220214_013641952.jpg


In regards to getting the wiring over the gas tank, I used a piece of scrap solid copper wire (8-10 ga thick) I had lying around as "fish tape" and pulled the wires from the passenger side. I tried pushing the harness blindly from driver-pass but harness isn't rigid enough to navigate passed the unknown crap you can't see above the tank. Or at least I couldn't.

Also smart move with the grommets. I need to either pull the harness or attempt to cut split the grommet on one side.

For the curved bracket, I believe there was a part change. Mine has another bracket without the curve (middle in the picture iirc), went in fine.
PXL_20220123_194053784.jpg
YOU AREA GREEK GOD!!! THANK YOU!!!

BATTERY: That's the same I did. (Someone else told me they did the same thing so i feel better.)

BRACKET: I don't even have that so I'll call with them tomorrow.

Thanks again for the pictures and for the feedback. You are awesome!
 

Murph56789

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I have had issues with my steps so I’ve had practice removing and reinstalling stuff. Had my passenger side off 3 times again since I’ve installed it.
The wiring harness will allow the positive and negative to reach the battery (I discovered the 2nd time running it). Start at the drivers side plugs in the step and work out from there. Will provide plenty of slack. As mentioned routing the harness over the gas tank may be the hardest part.
The red light on the switch is not needed. The yellow wire provides power for the light. If you don’t want a lighted switch simply unplug the yellow wire (and seal it as it still is a hot wire).
The boxes the steps ship in are the greatest install help. I’ve had these steps on and off every time myself with no jack by using the boxes.
98860932-3F43-4753-85C3-B0D6D3C423A2.jpeg

The body mount brackets are tight to get on. A few whacks with the sand hammer did the trick.
The whole magnet door sensor system is very finicky. Drivers side has always worked fine. Passenger side needed bigger magnets and stacked tape (to move magnet closer to sensor) to work properly.
Speaking of the drivers side step always working, it has. The passenger side has been an entirely different story. First I was shipped 3 passenger side steps before I was ever correctly shipped a drivers side. Then it turns out the circuit board was bad in all 3 steps. They finally sent me a working one and were helpful troubleshooting over the phone, but seems as if there are some quality control issues. There have been at least 3 iterations of the circuit boards for the bronco steps so far. Hopefully no more are needed. The install is easy, but switching out a circuit board is a pain to remove the whole step.
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