RockJock Rear AntiRock [Install + Forklift Flex Test]

[EvanPeterson]

We installed the RockJock4x4 Rear AntiRock system on the 2-Door.

installation of the system is easy enough, the hardest part (which isn’t in the video) is removing the old muffler after 3 years of Illinois salt. Bolting up the AFE muffler (or equivalent from other MFG) that’s required for this system was easy though!

We’ve been without sway bars front or rear for over a year, and adding this did reduce the flexibility of the Rock Krawler Pro-X 4-Link rear, but not by as much as I was expecting… and the reduction of body roll was greater than the articulation lost.

Overall, would definitely recommend if you have a factory rear swaybar and aren’t ready for the no-sway-bars life.

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[userdude]

Do you have the front AntiRocks?

 

[EvanPeterson]

Sped-up video of forklift test included in video!

 

[EvanPeterson]

Do you have the front AntiRocks?

no sir! rear only.

my thought was, if I’m going to add something that might takeaway a little of my flex, I should take it away from the rear where I have the most to give up.

 

[SierraBronco]

Installing ours today. The rear winch mount uses the same holes that the swaybar uses so we had to do a little drilling. And by little I mean a lot. Damn bolts are .75”

 

[EvanPeterson]

Installing ours today. The rear winch mount uses the same holes that the swaybar uses so we had to do a little drilling. And by little I mean a lot. Damn bolts are .75”

Yeah! That’s a LOT of drilling! lol

for making it work!!

 

[SierraBronco]

It certainly took some patience. Destroyed a uni-bit in the process

Removed the factory rear sway bar while swapping out the driveline and adding the RK coilovers, and goodness the body roll is bad. (Took awhile for the RJ swaybar to arrive) It’ll be interesting to see how much of a difference it makes with our setup

 

[Roofus]

I’m very confused by paying a grand for these when you can have e-swaybar for $1300. What’s the thinking?

 

[EvanPeterson]

It certainly took some patience. Destroyed a uni-bit in the process

Removed the factory rear sway bar while swapping out the driveline and adding the RK coilovers, and goodness the body roll is bad. (Took awhile for the RJ swaybar to arrive) It’ll be interesting to see how much of a difference it makes with our setup

we got our kit about 2mo ago, but the exhaust was back ordered… once I finally got the exhaust, went to install the RJ, and discovered the studs for the links weren’t in the pack. They next day aired them out to us tho!

 

[EvanPeterson]

I’m very confused by paying a grand for these when you can have e-swaybar for $1300. What’s the thinking?

Someone makes an e-swaybar for the rear…?

 

[SierraBronco]

we got our kit about 2mo ago, but the exhaust was back ordered… once I finally got the exhaust, went to install the RJ, and discovered the studs for the links weren’t in the pack. They next day aired them out to us tho!

Love that kind of customer service

 

[userdude]

I’m very confused by paying a grand for these when you can have e-swaybar for $1300. What’s the thinking?

This is for the rear, but a torsion bar differs from a disconnect in how it applies force from one side to the other. It improves plantedness.

 

[SierraBronco]

I’m very confused by paying a grand for these when you can have e-swaybar for $1300. What’s the thinking?

This thread is focusing on the rear sway bar. The RockJock design is better than factory and will maximize articulation while keeping the body more level and reducing body roll on the road. The factory sway bar is very narrow and fixed on the link size whereas the RJ is as wide as possible, with adjustable links. My understanding is the additional width and bar diameter/material helps give a good amount of “twist” to help articulation but also force your other tires into the ground while helping keep the body more level.

It’s pretty common to simply delete the entire front sway bar on IFS rigs while running a rear. No electro disconnect to worry about

 

[Aonarch]

no sir! rear only.

my thought was, if I’m going to add something that might takeaway a little of my flex, I should take it away from the rear where I have the most to give up.

They are designed to work in conjunction. I highly recommend adding the front!

 

[userdude]

They are designed to work in conjunction. I highly recommend the front over the rear if you only do one.

This is what I was thinking. The Currie video I thought he said not to do the rear only, but that was Jeeps...

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