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Rockjock Rear Control Arms

cjindna

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cjindna

cjindna

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Sorry for not revisiting this, between the thrash to get ready for Moab and the trip itself I haven’t come back with the intended write up.

Two separate companies, John split off from the “Currie Ent.” biz so that they could focus on driveline components and he could focus on the larger off road category.

If you have run Johnny Joints on anything then you know they are the absolute best in market for providing ultimate flexibility while maintaining great NVH levels and stability. They are at the intersection of spherical rod end and OE style “rubber”.

If there is interest I’d be happy to complete the install write up as I did take all of the pics along the way.

As for performance, we drove from North TX to Moab, completed Hells, Fins, Top of, 7 Mile, and 3D while only lifting a tire on two occasions. The control arms along with some bump stop trimming, and manual front sway bar disco provided all the necessary flex for a comfortable, stress free trip to the high desert.

Now that C/Os are on the way, the double adjustable arms will allow me to quickly dial in the pinion angle after the new ride height is established.
 
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cjindna

cjindna

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Ill be doing some next week as well. Looks good!
Ball center widths are different (front to rear), I believe in each case the end with silver nut (LH thread) goes toward rear.

I did drop the fuel tank for my install as I was also installing an OE skid at the same time. After having done it that way, I would do it again even if I were not installing the skid. It is really low effort with the right tools / jack and makes the control arm install a breeze.
 

BigMeatsBronco

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E
Ball center widths are different (front to rear), I believe in each case the end with silver nut (LH thread) goes toward rear.

I did drop the fuel tank for my install as I was also installing an OE skid at the same time. After having done it that way, I would do it again even if I were not installing the skid. It is really low effort with the right tools / jack and makes the control arm install a breeze.
Fantastic information
 

BigMeatsBronco

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Sorry for not revisiting this, between the thrash to get ready for Moab and the trip itself I haven’t come back with the intended write up.

Two separate companies, John split off from the “Currie Ent.” biz so that they could focus on driveline components and he could focus on the larger off road category.

If you have run Johnny Joints on anything then you know they are the absolute best in market for providing ultimate flexibility while maintaining great NVH levels and stability. They are at the intersection of spherical rod end and OE style “rubber”.

If there is interest I’d be happy to complete the install write up as I did take all of the pics along the way.

As for performance, we drove from North TX to Moab, completed Hells, Fins, Top of, 7 Mile, and 3D while only lifting a tire on two occasions. The control arms along with some bump stop trimming, and manual front sway bar disco provided all the necessary flex for a comfortable, stress free trip to the high desert.

Now that C/Os are on the way, the double adjustable arms will allow me to quickly dial in the pinion angle after the new ride height is established.
You trimmed the bump stops??? That's awesome 👌
 
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cjindna

cjindna

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You trimmed the bump stops??? That's awesome 👌
I sure did!

Running Zone 1” up front and the top plate from the Zone 1” in the rear with 0.8” trimmed off both both f/r stops in the solid zone, 1” in compression zone front, and 1.25” in compression zone rear.

No coil bind and no fender contact. Biggest problem discovered in Moab was dragging those damn boat anchor lower trailing arm mounts on everything (even having to take an easier line on a couple of occasions).
 

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BigMeatsBronco

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I sure did!

Running Zone 1” up front and the top plate from the Zone 1” in the rear with 0.8” trimmed off both both f/r stops in the solid zone, 1” in compression zone front, and 1.25” in compression zone rear.

No coil bind and no fender contact. Biggest problem discovered in Moab was dragging those damn boat anchor lower trailing arm mounts on everything (even having to take an easier line on a couple of occasions).
The frame side mount for trailing arms?
 
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cjindna

cjindna

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Yes, skids here are an absolute must if you intend to work the ledges
 

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Please confirm BUT if you did not drop the gas tank then would need to cut the bolt off (on the gas tank side). So do these arms come with bolts?

Ball center widths are different (front to rear), I believe in each case the end with silver nut (LH thread) goes toward rear.

I did drop the fuel tank for my install as I was also installing an OE skid at the same time. After having done it that way, I would do it again even if I were not installing the skid. It is really low effort with the right tools / jack and makes the control arm install a breeze.
 
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cjindna

cjindna

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Please confirm BUT if you did not drop the gas tank then would need to cut the bolt off (on the gas tank side). So do these arms come with bolts?
Correct, no tank drop would require cutting the pass frame side bolts and losing the flag nut (bolt in this case). RJ does not include bolts with the CAs.
 

BigMeatsBronco

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Yes, skids here are an absolute must if you intend to work the ledges
I plan on cutting those dumb rock-catcher mounts off and doing the isuzu style instead...they moved them out and up.

Here's a pic of the isuzu style I'll be running soon.

My plan is something like this with the bottom FLUSH with the frame! And might as well lengthen the lower control arms while I'm at it and move the frame mount forward about 12" too.

20220430_065357.jpg


20220430_065353.jpg
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