- First Name
- Stan
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2021
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 279
- Reaction score
- 518
- Location
- Pilot Point, TX
- Vehicle(s)
- F450, GT350
- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
- Thread starter
- #1
This was the last step in my mansquatch conversion. Thanks to many forum members for parts and trades to get the fenders, wheels and tires, and coilovers. Because they were available locally, I used a set of 4dr 2.7 SAS coilovers on my 2dr 2.3 7mt badlands. The front springs for the 4dr 2.7 should be a bit taller/stiffer to level out the stance a bit.
Front lift was about 1.25", rear lift was around .5" - measured fender to wheel center. Rake, measured on the ends of the rock rail went from 1/2" to 1/8". Pretty small change for all the work, but nice to have it finished now with all oem components.
Before:
After:
For those that will DIY this, some tips:
- I used the RC leveling kit install instructions for the front disassembly.
- I did not remove the axle nut as I did not have that socket size (36mm) - that meant in order to get enough droop in the a-arm to get the coilover out, I had to loosen the inner a-arm mounts (these are tight, 200ft/lbs), and pry down around 1/2"-1" to get the top mount out of the frame. Once that is done the coilover lifts right out.
- Rear coilover lower bolt (on the axle) this is very tight - spec is 250ft/lbs, it took a strong socket (1-1/16 or 27mm) and a 3/4" ratchet with a jack handle as a cheater bar to get it moving. My milwaukee 18v impact would not break it loose.
- You probably don't need to remove the rear fender liner to access the nuts on the rear top mount, but it makes it easier. There is one screw that is trapped between the rock rail and the body. Can't be removed easily, so I left it in on one side and just let the liner droop down. Nice to see the sound insulation pad on the fender liner.
Interesting notes
- the rear springs are the same part#, only the shock, and the lower mount position is slightly different
- the truck is tall, and the rear suspension droops a lot. If you are doing this with jackstands, you will need tall ones to reach the frame
Front lift was about 1.25", rear lift was around .5" - measured fender to wheel center. Rake, measured on the ends of the rock rail went from 1/2" to 1/8". Pretty small change for all the work, but nice to have it finished now with all oem components.
Before:
After:
For those that will DIY this, some tips:
- I used the RC leveling kit install instructions for the front disassembly.
- I did not remove the axle nut as I did not have that socket size (36mm) - that meant in order to get enough droop in the a-arm to get the coilover out, I had to loosen the inner a-arm mounts (these are tight, 200ft/lbs), and pry down around 1/2"-1" to get the top mount out of the frame. Once that is done the coilover lifts right out.
- Rear coilover lower bolt (on the axle) this is very tight - spec is 250ft/lbs, it took a strong socket (1-1/16 or 27mm) and a 3/4" ratchet with a jack handle as a cheater bar to get it moving. My milwaukee 18v impact would not break it loose.
- You probably don't need to remove the rear fender liner to access the nuts on the rear top mount, but it makes it easier. There is one screw that is trapped between the rock rail and the body. Can't be removed easily, so I left it in on one side and just let the liner droop down. Nice to see the sound insulation pad on the fender liner.
Interesting notes
- the rear springs are the same part#, only the shock, and the lower mount position is slightly different
- the truck is tall, and the rear suspension droops a lot. If you are doing this with jackstands, you will need tall ones to reach the frame
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