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SAS Sasquatch coilovers installed on manual Badlands

webspoke

Badlands
Well-Known Member
First Name
Stan
Joined
Mar 22, 2021
Threads
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Location
Pilot Point, TX
Vehicle(s)
F450, GT350
Your Bronco Model
Badlands
Clubs
 
This was the last step in my mansquatch conversion. Thanks to many forum members for parts and trades to get the fenders, wheels and tires, and coilovers. Because they were available locally, I used a set of 4dr 2.7 SAS coilovers on my 2dr 2.3 7mt badlands. The front springs for the 4dr 2.7 should be a bit taller/stiffer to level out the stance a bit.

Front lift was about 1.25", rear lift was around .5" - measured fender to wheel center. Rake, measured on the ends of the rock rail went from 1/2" to 1/8". Pretty small change for all the work, but nice to have it finished now with all oem components.

Before:
51831903851_5f3522faea_z.jpg

After:
51832259019_a32380264a_z.jpg

51832051868_df5d060834_z.jpg


For those that will DIY this, some tips:

- I used the RC leveling kit install instructions for the front disassembly.
- I did not remove the axle nut as I did not have that socket size (36mm) - that meant in order to get enough droop in the a-arm to get the coilover out, I had to loosen the inner a-arm mounts (these are tight, 200ft/lbs), and pry down around 1/2"-1" to get the top mount out of the frame. Once that is done the coilover lifts right out.
- Rear coilover lower bolt (on the axle) this is very tight - spec is 250ft/lbs, it took a strong socket (1-1/16 or 27mm) and a 3/4" ratchet with a jack handle as a cheater bar to get it moving. My milwaukee 18v impact would not break it loose.
- You probably don't need to remove the rear fender liner to access the nuts on the rear top mount, but it makes it easier. There is one screw that is trapped between the rock rail and the body. Can't be removed easily, so I left it in on one side and just let the liner droop down. Nice to see the sound insulation pad on the fender liner.
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Interesting notes
- the rear springs are the same part#, only the shock, and the lower mount position is slightly different
51829821394_ba7c42fd59_z.jpg

- the truck is tall, and the rear suspension droops a lot. If you are doing this with jackstands, you will need tall ones to reach the frame
51828525737_61f1ae860e_z.jpg
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kodiakisland

Black Diamond
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Location
Arkansas
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12 Tacoma, 18 Indian, 23 GV70
Your Bronco Model
Black Diamond
Clubs
 
- the truck is tall, and the rear suspension droops a lot. If you are doing this with jackstands, you will need tall ones to reach the frame
51828525737_61f1ae860e_z.jpg

Glad it worked out well for you.
Just an FYI for those without really tall jack stands. Use the jack under the rear axle. Put your jack stands under the frame. Remove the rear tire. Then lower the rear axle. That way the droop happens without the tire mounted so you don't have to have the vehicle so high in the air.


This is the rear coilovers out with fairly short jackstands. The axle at full droop was a couple inches off the floor. Rear of the vehicle was only jacked up about 2 inches. Also, did not remove my rear liner. Just removed most of the retainers that allowed it to easily be moved to the side while removing the top nuts.

Ford Bronco SAS Sasquatch coilovers installed on manual Badlands E7E5C317-9C72-4507-9457-52140D87B068
 
Last edited:
 


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