Sasquatch Package or Add 33’s to a Big Bend?

[mlcinema]

Depends on how you view 'required'. You could run the 285's on the 3.73's, Hell the wife's Jeep spins 285's with 3.21's (or whatever it has). But... that doesn't make it 'optimal'. Gas mileage suffers and it won't tow for shit.

Personally if I go with the 285's on my Big Bend build, I'll be opting for the 4.27's.

I will opt for the 4.27’s if I don’t Sasquatch. Makes more since and doesn’t seem expensive.

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[Daytona_Bronco]

Having the Squatch package is more than just wheels and 35s. It also includes heavier axels, fox shocks, the automatic transfer case, front and rear lockers . All this with a factory backed warranty. It boils down to what you want, and there is nothing wrong with either choice. Simply is itsomething that from the start that is more for looks or more for getting off the beaten path.

Shocks are not Fox ..

 

[Gr8Hortoni]

Depends on how you view 'required'. You could run the 285's on the 3.73's, Hell the wife's Jeep spins 285's with 3.21's (or whatever it has). But... that doesn't make it 'optimal'. Gas mileage suffers and it won't tow for shit.

Personally if I go with the 285's on my Big Bend build, I'll be opting for the 4.27's.

My jk is pushing 33’s with 3.21 as well. Not a fan of it. Lol. Going from a 32 to a 33 won’t be that much of a difference. Going up to 35’s would be all I would want to do on the 4.27. I’m getting bd with manual& 4.46, optimal gear for 35 is probably in the 4.56-4.88 range, I can make due with the 4.46, probably staying at a 34” so it should work pretty good.

 

[Frank N]

I'm squatching for three reasons.

1- There have been times I needed more than a rear locker and my Torsen went into action, without that option for a torsen in the front, I will get the front locker.
2-My Bronco will never be the subject of a youtube video on a Wrangler forum getting pulled out be a Wrangler.
3- that 4.7 sure makes it easier to run 37's...hmmmmm

 

[ATLBronco75]

I’d add Sass to any trim below Badlands. The suspension and diffs are a big step up.

 

[Superthornbird]

Shocks are not Fox ..

Thank you will correct.

 

[Skip2a]

I had posted my own question in regards to a SaS package on my future BD. SaS on BD is $4495. I had lots of good responses that made me look at the benefit of the whole package instead of just wheels and tires.

I hate the steelies (my opinion only : I know some people like them) so I was looking at between $2000 to $3000 for new wheels and larger tires (remember you need to buy five; not four). Figure an average of $2500 so the difference is only about 2k. For upgraded axels, front locker, 1" in height, larger fender flares and upgraded shocks with a factory warranty is well worth the $2k to me. I know I will be disappointed with the stock stance of the BD once I see it next to a SaS package. I will never off road hard so the extras will probably just be idle but who knows maybe one day down the road they will pay off.

It is basically like everything else on these wonderful beasts: get what you like/want and are willing to pay for. I have a late reservation so I am socking away cash to help pay for the SaS without having it in the financing.

Whatever you choose it is yours. There is no right or wrong answer on any of these builds. Build what makes you happy and enjoy the hell out of it!

 

[Superthornbird]

Thank you will correct.

The fox is the Gladiator Rubicon stock shock (Try saying that 3 times fast), I did out loud for some strange reason and my wife just shook her head and went back to work?

 

[mlcinema]

I had posted my own question in regards to a SaS package on my future BD. SaS on BD is $4495. I had lots of good responses that made me look at the benefit of the whole package instead of just wheels and tires.

I hate the steelies (my opinion only : I know some people like them) so I was looking at between $2000 to $3000 for new wheels and larger tires (remember you need to buy five; not four). Figure an average of $2500 so the difference is only about 2k. For upgraded axels, front locker, 1" in height, larger fender flares and upgraded shocks with a factory warranty is well worth the $2k to me. I know I will be disappointed with the stock stance of the BD once I see it next to a SaS package. I will never off road hard so the extras will probably just be idle but who knows maybe one day down the road they will pay off.

It is basically like everything else on these wonderful beasts: get what you like/want and are willing to pay for. I have a late reservation so I am socking away cash to help pay for the SaS without having it in the financing.

Whatever you choose it is yours. There is no right or wrong answer on any of these builds. Build what makes you happy and enjoy the hell out of it!

I agree. I have priced up some wheels and tires and it comes to about $2,500. So, ya not a huge difference. Stupid Bronco

 

[RobC2]

I think if you are doing larger tires and especially gears anyway, you should go for Sasquatch. If you want different wheels or tires, sell the SAS ones to help offset the cost. The package is a tremendous value when you consider suspension, lockers, axles, wheels, tires, warranty, and especially resale. Years from now a factory setup is going to retain a much higher value than a home-grown setup which will probably hurt the value.

 

[WatchYourSix]

Slightly off topic but I saw this Wrangler today and the wheels reminded me of Squatch and color reminded me of AMB. Looks really nice. I think the tires are 35s. Lighting isn't the greatest so it doesn't capture the blue body very well.

 

[sjjohnny]

That is the question I have been asking myself for what seems like years now.

And we don’t really know if 33’s will fit.

I hear you ... I've been thinking the same thing... don't really need squatch. Even though B&P does not list as option, the Preliminary Tech specs for wheels do - optional beadlock-capable wheels on BB and BD and BL. Since BL comes with 33's, doesn't that sound like they would fit on BB and BD as well?

From the Prelim Tech page 2:

Optional Big Bend, Black Diamond, Badlands 17-inch black high-gloss-painted forged aluminum, with warm alloy beauty ring, beadlock-capable

 

[mlcinema]

Slightly off topic but I saw this Wrangler today and the wheels reminded me of Squatch and color reminded me of AMB. Looks really nice. I think the tires are 35s. Lighting isn't the greatest so it doesn't capture the blue body very well.

It does look cool!

 

[Happytown]

EDIT: TL,DR- On EcoBoost, given two close choices, you'd be better off err'ing on the side of the lower overall gearing to get higher overall engine rpm's..

Original Post:

I wanted to offer this input on the gearing...

IMO it would be better to err on the side of having the lower gearing, given two close options...by "lower gearing" I mean the one that increases the engine RPM's for given speed.

I speak from this experience: I've driven an F150 4x4 with 3.5L Ecoboost going on 7 years now. Absolutely love it, but I have too tall of an overall final gearing for the 35's I'm turning, the factory 3.55 rear end keeps me at around 1800 RPM's in top gear at 65-70 mph. That 3.55 diff was meant to go with the 32ish inch crappy tires that came from the factory. Where this really hurts, especially on these turbocharged engines, is when you are in close quarters traffic trying to match subtle speed changes with the traffic in front of you, or towing. If the RPM's and resulting exhaust velocity/volume isn't there available to the turbos, the turbo lag is exacerbated. Hence I almost never allow the truck into 6th (top) gear. Keep the RPM's in the right range (i.e. manually keep it down in 5th gear, or get the right diff to start with) and my truck will pull my 20' SeaArk/Yammy 150 up and down hills at 75 MPH no problem, without downshifting.

 

[mlcinema]

EDIT: TL,DR- On EcoBoost, given two close choices, you'd be better off err'ing on the side of the lower overall gearing to get higher overall engine rpm's..

Original Post:

I wanted to offer this input on the gearing...

IMO it would be better to err on the side of having the lower gearing, given two close options...by "lower gearing" I mean the one that increases the engine RPM's for given speed.

I speak from this experience: I've driven an F150 4x4 with 3.5L Ecoboost going on 7 years now. Absolutely love it, but I have too tall of an overall final gearing for the 35's I'm turning, the factory 3.55 rear end keeps me at around 1800 RPM's in top gear at 65-70 mph. That 3.55 diff was meant to go with the 32ish inch crappy tires that came from the factory. Where this really hurts, especially on these turbocharged engines, is when you are in close quarters traffic trying to match subtle speed changes with the traffic in front of you, or towing. If the RPM's and resulting exhaust velocity/volume isn't there available to the turbos, the turbo lag is exacerbated. Hence I almost never allow the truck into 6th (top) gear. Keep the RPM's in the right range (i.e. manually keep it down in 5th gear, or get the right diff to start with) and my truck will pull my 20' SeaArk/Yammy 150 up and down hills at 75 MPH no problem, without downshifting.

Thank you.

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