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Self wiring flat four-pin hitch receiver
- Thread starter Riverafter
- Start date
- Watchers 12
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- #17
Ok, steps 1 through 13:
I followed instructions so far. I ran the red power line supplied from the battery to the fire wall access shown.
the bulkhead grommet is a double walled bitch. I first cut a hole through the engine side. And fed the line through. I then sliced a cut through the cab side and, with needle nose pliers, pulled it through into the cab. I then went back and secured the line with zip ties.
I followed instructions so far. I ran the red power line supplied from the battery to the fire wall access shown.
the bulkhead grommet is a double walled bitch. I first cut a hole through the engine side. And fed the line through. I then sliced a cut through the cab side and, with needle nose pliers, pulled it through into the cab. I then went back and secured the line with zip ties.
It's a shame Ford didn't make a harness for the towing package and keep it tucked up under the bumper for easily adding the 4 and 7 pin connectors after the fact. Most people would probably opt out of the towing package on their order since apparently it's holding orders up.
- First Name
- Ben
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- Jul 26, 2020
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- '22 GX460 '16 Miata '67 F-100 '21 Streetfighter V4
- Your Bronco Model
- Big Bend
I'm just going to run a four gauge wire when I do this part. Future-proof for mods I'll eventually do.Ok, steps 1 through 13:
I followed instructions so far. I ran the red power line supplied from the battery to the fire wall access shown.
the bulkhead grommet is a double walled bitch. I first cut a hole through the engine side. And fed the line through. I then sliced a cut through the cab side and, with needle nose pliers, pulled it through into the cab. I then went back and secured the line with zip ties.
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- #20
I really thought, originally, that this would be a “plug and play” arrangement. When I questioned it at the dealership as I peered in the box, the guy just quietly chuckled…
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- #21
Step 14 through 26,
I left running the power down the chassis is pretty simple, if a cheater feeder is used. Mine (the yellow thing) is taped to the end of the wire and feed though difficult passages to the next open area.
I now run into my first obastacle. I bought a lock box in the back and quickly discover it must be removed.
now comes my first deviation from the instructions. Once the power wire is laid in the interior to the rear driver’s side. They want me, somehow, to place the module up into the exterior of the interior wall near the taillight. I opted to mount it inside the interior wall. The next instructions are about feeding the wires through the grommet to the interior to attach the red power, the ground, and the blue line to ground (for halogen lights).
I went reverse running the connecting lines through the grommet to the exterior as well as the four-pin through the grommet. This last measure was made easy by removing the grommet entirely and feeding through a hole I made then refitting it back in.
Now I ran the green (right turn) line over to the right side.
And being lazy, I spliced directly into the line from the interior.
I left running the power down the chassis is pretty simple, if a cheater feeder is used. Mine (the yellow thing) is taped to the end of the wire and feed though difficult passages to the next open area.
I now run into my first obastacle. I bought a lock box in the back and quickly discover it must be removed.
now comes my first deviation from the instructions. Once the power wire is laid in the interior to the rear driver’s side. They want me, somehow, to place the module up into the exterior of the interior wall near the taillight. I opted to mount it inside the interior wall. The next instructions are about feeding the wires through the grommet to the interior to attach the red power, the ground, and the blue line to ground (for halogen lights).
I went reverse running the connecting lines through the grommet to the exterior as well as the four-pin through the grommet. This last measure was made easy by removing the grommet entirely and feeding through a hole I made then refitting it back in.
Now I ran the green (right turn) line over to the right side.
And being lazy, I spliced directly into the line from the interior.
@Riverafter nice job getting it done! Is there a reason you didn’t grab power from the rear after your research? I think I’m going to attempt the method used by @JuJu when I get my Bronco.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/trailer-wiring-harness-self-installation.21922/post-783958
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/trailer-wiring-harness-self-installation.21922/post-783958
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- Thread starter
- #23
Steps 27 through 44,
These are pretty straight forward. Splice your way into the wires I took the simple approach of cutting and crimping, followed by lots of electrical tape.
I chose to wrap the four-pin line with the insulating cover for now. I don’t have the hitch yet, and I figure I’ll put the plastic cover on when that happens. I’m currently trying to decide on the drawtite “shin killer 3000” that sticks out under the spare or the Curtis shorty that would require an extra long stinger. Thoughts? I’m almost ready to raft the rivers again.
These are pretty straight forward. Splice your way into the wires I took the simple approach of cutting and crimping, followed by lots of electrical tape.
I chose to wrap the four-pin line with the insulating cover for now. I don’t have the hitch yet, and I figure I’ll put the plastic cover on when that happens. I’m currently trying to decide on the drawtite “shin killer 3000” that sticks out under the spare or the Curtis shorty that would require an extra long stinger. Thoughts? I’m almost ready to raft the rivers again.
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- Thread starter
- #24
I just figured that the biggest part of the power line from the hood was the firewall grommet and after that it wouldn’t be so hard.
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