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Should I add 4A to my BD order?

redone17

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I dunno. It’s pretty obvious when it’s shitty outside. Having to shift it out when using sport mode every time would annoy the piss out of me. I’m also driving a manual transmission. So, I guess I’m a manual transfer case kinda guy too.
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F OR D

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absolutely, especially if you deal with snow/heavy rain. for the cost i would do it even if i didn't.
 

Sparkherd

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4A can be useful if you drive in a lot of snow or black ice. Of course, you have to shift it into 4A before you hit the black ice.

And maybe the first rain in September after it hasn't rained for half the year and all the oil turns the streets into a frictionless nightmare.

Your location says Torrence. So, I personally would not drop the extra coin on the Advanced transfer case.
How much is the option?
When I ordered mine it was free, and when mine finally showed up, the sticker was $2500 higher than what I ordered, but I have no clue if any of that was for the advanced transfer case.
We've had drizzly rain since I got the damn thang...I put it in 4A for a notoriously slick intersection, and it was a complete non-event.
If it's not much money I would get it.
 

Beach_Bum

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I think the key is you need to know your use cases. Being in Minnesota I would always say the Advanced Transfer case is preferred. It will help during the winter, and it helps with resale.
The problem with the Advanced Transfer Case is that people who come from AWD vehicles will treat 4A like AWD. And that isn't how it should be used. 4A is a full-time system, but due to its design, it shouldn't be used on dry well packed surfaces. When using 4A it is also important that all 4 wheels have the same air pressure levels. The advanced transfer case uses clutch plates that will wear faster if there are different speeds between the front and rear wheels.

Here is a teardown of a 2021 First Edition that was left in 4A all the time for 10k miles, and burned up the clutch pack.
Thanks for sharing this video and something for others to keep in mind that are in the "set it and forget it" mindset.
 

orion

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I think the key is you need to know your use cases. Being in Minnesota I would always say the Advanced Transfer case is preferred. It will help during the winter, and it helps with resale.
The problem with the Advanced Transfer Case is that people who come from AWD vehicles will treat 4A like AWD. And that isn't how it should be used. 4A is a full-time system, but due to its design, it shouldn't be used on dry well packed surfaces. When using 4A it is also important that all 4 wheels have the same air pressure levels. The advanced transfer case uses clutch plates that will wear faster if there are different speeds between the front and rear wheels.

Here is a teardown of a 2021 First Edition that was left in 4A all the time for 10k miles, and burned up the clutch pack.
Thanks for sharing this video and something for others to keep in mind that are in the "set it and forget it" mindset.
I beleive that this happened because it was towed with either the front or rear end off the ground and T-Case was in 4A. We don't know what was really wrong because the tow truck driver royally screwed up by towing it that way. It should have been flat bedded. At that point the T-Case clutch did nothing but slip the whole time, it wasn't because he drove it in 4A the whole time. I wouldn't drive in 4A all the time but you should if you want to. It is a wear item, you'll just have to replace it sooner if you do.

Original Video for Reference:
 
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Garemlin

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I beleive that this happened because it was towed with either the front or rear end off the ground and T-Case was in 4A. We don't know what was really wrong because the tow truck driver royally screwed up by towing it that way. It should have been flat bedded. At that point the T-Case clutch did nothing but slip the whole time, it wasn't because he drove it in 4A the whole time. I wouldn't drive in 4A all the time but you should if you want to. It is a wear item, you'll just have to replace it sooner if you do.
While I don’t drive with 4A on all the time, I don’t know why people keep saying it’s bad to do so. Or that 4A is bad in general. The front wheels are only engaged when lack of traction dictates. If you are driving on clear roads and don’t encounter any situations that would break traction it’s no different than driving in 2H. Too many people offer their “expert” opinions not knowing exactly how 4A operates.
 

orion

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While I don’t drive with 4A on all the time, I don’t know why people keep saying it’s bad to do so. Or that 4A is bad in general. The front wheels are only engaged when lack of traction dictates. If you are driving on clear roads and don’t encounter any situations that would break traction it’s no different than driving in 2H. Too many people offer their “expert” opinion’s not knowing exactly how 4A operates.
Especially a "Ford Mechanic".
 

BroncoAZ

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And, many people dont understand the little issue with equal tire tread/size.

If you have and use 4A, you cant just buy one new tire (like with a blowout or other single tire failure)

I had a Volvo once with 4A, at the time Ford owned Volvo, and when 1 tire failed you had to replace all 4 or it would fry the mechanics.......

It constantly measures each tires rotation and when one is always faster ir slower.....
Subaru’s had/have a similar issue with mismatched tires causing problems, but I doubt the Ford system in the trucks and Bronco is as susceptible to tire size variations and you can run it in 2H. With the open differential and differences in tire diameter from one side to the other would be worked out in the differential and wouldn’t effect the transfer case.

I would add the advanced transfer case if available just for the lower 4L gearing, 4A is a side benefit to me. If the standard transfer case was mechanical rather than electric shift I would’ve opted for the standard for long term durability. Historically Ford hasn’t had the best luck with electronic shift transfer cases as the vehicles age. Maybe they are better now.
 

BlueBronco

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Here is a teardown of a 2021 First Edition that was left in 4A all the time for 10k miles, and burned up the clutch pack.
I beleive that this happened because it was towed with either the front or rear end off the ground and T-Case was in 4A. We don't know what was really wrong because the tow truck driver royally screwed up by towing it that way.
Came here to point out the same thing. There is a long thread on here discussing the failure and it wasn't because he drove it in 4a for 10k miles.

Ford has the 4a system in several vehicles. Like the capless gas cap, it is old, proven technology and nothing to be overly concerned about. Set it and forget it already.
 

Beach_Bum

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I beleive that this happened because it was towed with either the front or rear end off the ground and T-Case was in 4A. We don't know what was really wrong because the tow truck driver royally screwed up by towing it that way. It should have been flat bedded. At that point the T-Case clutch did nothing but slip the whole time, it wasn't because he drove it in 4A the whole time. I wouldn't drive in 4A all the time but you should if you want to. It is a wear item, you'll just have to replace it sooner if you do.

Original Video for Reference:
Did you watch the video that you linked? Jump to around the 5 minute mark. The technician clearly explains that the owner (prior to the tow botch job) always has it in 4A and advises against it. While the tow truck driver didn't do any favors, it was on the owner that 4A was already selected before towing. Hence, my statement about caution for the "set it and forget it" crowd. It is a wear item that will need to be replaced sooner if you do like you said and is not a warranty item.
 

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Did you watch the video that you linked? Jump to around the 5 minute mark. The technician clearly explains that the owner (prior to the tow botch job) always has it in 4A and advises against it. While the tow truck driver didn't do any favors, it was on the owner that 4A was already selected before towing. Hence, my statement about caution for the "set it and forget it" crowd. It is a wear item that will need to be replaced sooner if you do like you said and is not a warranty item.
My 2000 Expedition only offers three choices for the transfer case: 4A, 4H, and 4L. Ford didn’t seem to have any concerns on running 4A all the time. I’m at 103,000 miles and the 4A clutches are just starting to act up which makes the front differential engage on turns rather than slipping. The expedition forum experts are suggesting that the clutches are “dirty” and recommend a procedure to correct. The recommended method is to change the fluid, run the vehicle with tires removed on jackstands for 10 minutes with the controller unplugged (forces the clutches to grind a bit and clean the gunk off for a fresh surface), then change the fluid again. If not I’ll be pulling the transfer case and replacing the clutches.

I manage a fleet of work trucks for my employer, probably 50% of our Chevy trucks that are equipped with the Autotrac transfer case live in 4A their entire life without issues. I do notice a difference in MPG in 4A vs 2H, so I ask people to use 2H. The set it and forget it crowd will be fine.
 

orion

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Did you watch the video that you linked? Jump to around the 5 minute mark. The technician clearly explains that the owner (prior to the tow botch job) always has it in 4A and advises against it. While the tow truck driver didn't do any favors, it was on the owner that 4A was already selected before towing. Hence, my statement about caution for the "set it and forget it" crowd. It is a wear item that will need to be replaced sooner if you do like you said and is not a warranty item.
Ummm, nooo. Did owner ask for or know their Bronco was being towed??? It is on the tow company 100%! They're the professionals. Lets say some soccer mom is actually getting their Bronco towed and they had it in 4A but dont understand the repercussions of towing it with one axle off the ground. Is she to inform the tow company that it is in 4A and that it needs a flat bed? No, its the tow driver/company to know such things. And yes I did watch it and in my humble opinion, he's a jack ass. It is his opinion/advice and it is faulty one at that...
 

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The front wheels are only engaged when lack of traction dictates. If you are driving on clear roads and don’t encounter any situations that would break traction it’s no different than driving in 2H. Too many people offer their “expert” opinions not knowing exactly how 4A operates.
The system doesn't preemptively apply some lock when taking off under heavy throttle? I believe that it does...
 

Garemlin

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The system doesn't preemptively apply some lock when taking off under heavy throttle? I believe that it does...
It does give equal power to the fronts and rears during acceleration. I've watched the power distribution screen. But it's only for a few seconds.
 

Beach_Bum

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Ummm, nooo. Did owner ask for or know their Bronco was being towed??? It is on the tow company 100%! They're the professionals. Lets say some soccer mom is actually getting their Bronco towed and they had it in 4A but dont understand the repercussions of towing it with one axle off the ground. Is she to inform the tow company that it is in 4A and that it needs a flat bed? No, its the tow driver/company to know such things. And yes I did watch it and in my humble opinion, he's a jack ass. It is his opinion/advice and it is faulty one at that...
You are entitled to your opinion of that he's a jackass. But his advice is read directly from the owner's manual. At 5 minutes and 11 minutes he clearly reads from the owner's manual.

People can provide anecdotal evidence on their old Expedition or offer up personal experience that is counter to what the owner's manual suggests. That doesn't mean they aren't wrong.

Yes, in this particular case, they were able to have the tow company pay for the replacement. But absent the botched tow job, the owner likely would have had problems just later down the road. In that case, they wouldn't have had anyone to blame and would try to have it warrantied. When the technician reads the owner manual and points to a smoked transfer case due to the owner "setting it and forgetting it" contrary to the manual's advice, then the work will be on the owner.

As he mentioned, the clutch pack can be replaced, but they are advised to replace the entire transfer case. It won't be a cheap repair for those that want to "set it and forget it".
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