Snacktime's 5100 Bilstein Shocks review & takeaways

[Snacktime]

Well I finally have enough mileage on my 5100 shocks to say I like them and post my collection of info. 5100's feel stiffer than Hitachi's due to the digressive valving. If you feel your Hitachi shocks are to bouncy the 5100s would be a good purchase for you. If you are sensitive to small bumps in the road and don't want to feel them don't buy 5100's. The biggest change for me is the local speed bumps that are a 20mph bump. These 20mph bumps with the Hitachi suspension was a hard bottom out for me. I can now respectfully drive 40mph over the same bump and no bottoming out. Front 5100's can definitely handle more speed on these bumps but the rear at its limit (losing tire contact with the ground). For $550 they are absolutely a no brainer upgrade since 5100 tend to last 2-3 times longer than factory shock. If your paying someone to install a front lift and want to keep your bronco for a long time your money ahead putting 5100s on.

I would not put 5100's on a SAS bronco, they are the same diameter but missing some of the improvements that SAS shock offers (rebound and reservoirs). If you are looking at replacing SAS shocks after they have worn out I would say these are going to be a good option for similar performance (not an improvement). I couldn't find SAS take offs for fair money so for me the 5100's are a nice upgrade.

Snacktime's bad idea's start here and below...

Hard Numbers for all Bilstein shocks are pretty much the same. Front are almost Identical to factory SAS Shocks, below are 5100's and SAS specs. I believe the shorter collapsed length on the 5100 is the bump stop strike plate design(eats about 5mm or 1/2 cm of travel).

Rear has slightly less travel again I think the strike plate for the bump stops is the reason. The overall shock length is 5.7mm shorter or 1/2cm, which I consider a mute point (if it was more I would have passed on the 5100 and bought take off SAS Shocks).

My ruff math and my issue with Bilstein not being long enough. Below you will see my excel sheet I used to figure out if it was worth buying 5100s and what kind of suspension travel I would get. Below in the blue is stock Front SAS travel and 5100 at 1in (really 5100's are a 1/4 inch less up travel but your not fighting up travel). Same with the rear in yellow. Biggest issue with lifting stock suspension on the road and day to day is running out of droop and lifting a tire. 5100 are being sold as a lift 1" to 3", same as sticking a 2" collar lift on stock SAS shocks. I don't like the idea of running 5100's at 3" ride height with 1.74" of available droop. Since I was looking for as much lift as I can (3.5" to 4" is what is considered safe at this time) and keeping as much down travel as possible. You will see I stuck a spacer lift in with the shocks, this was to keep my down travel. I ended up putting the collars at the green highlighted number. With the added weight of my skids and when I stick my winch on(hiding in the garage) I will most likely lose a 1/2" on the front taking me from 3.8" of lift down to 3.3" (guessing). With the height reduction I should have 2" of down travel. I also have the ability to adjust and add more height to the front if needed. Spacers allow me more droop and hopefully provide a better on road experience over just maxing out the 5100's.

Side shot

Crappy shot of cv angles

Bad ideas

Alignment on stock A-Arms

The End-Please feel free to comment on my bad ideas... as this is a forum.

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[RC Bronco]

I think it looks fantastic!! I really need to make a decision on leveling/lifting my Black Diamond because this look is just too good.

Off topic question… how do you like the MetalCloak skids? Any complaints?

 

[Snacktime]

I think it looks fantastic!! I really need to make a decision on leveling/lifting my Black Diamond because this look is just too good.

Off topic question… how do you like the MetalCloak skids? Any complaints?

I have kind of kept the MetalCloak stuff in my other thread https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...skidplates-install-dents-wear-and-tear.46018/ I like them but the Undercloak has its short comings as they are already becoming tweaked and hard to bolt back on. Still one of the best options for full non-snag skid plates.

 

[dgorsett]

Thanks for this. I have a set of 5100's sitting in the garage waiting for me to get up the nerve to install. I'm a non Sas two door BB and will be setting at 1.5"/1.4 lift. I just want a little extra clearance under the sprung components (especially fuel tank) and will go with a slightly larger tire (275/70 17 ??? still debating.). Really the only negative I've noticed with the Hitachis is some annoying brake dive. I have a winch which settled the front about 3/8" so this should help with that as well. Also, I've been concerned that my spring compressor wouldn't be adequate, but it looks like you have the same one so good. I have a couple 1" spacer lifts I thought about hybridizing with this (maybe split my 2 piece front and rear) not sure it's a good idea. I appreciate, but don't fully understand, your comments on travel. Do you think I'd loose much set at 1.5"/1.4"?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[dgorsett]

PS
It looks like the Bilstein is longer overall but has a 'taller' bumpstop, maybe by about the amount of the #2 ring position, so I might end up with the same travel?

Also, I'm thinking of flipping the bottom front mounting bolts to protect the thread, do you think it would work?

 

[Snacktime]

Thanks for this. I have a set of 5100's sitting in the garage waiting for me to get up the nerve to install. I'm a non Sas two door BB and will be setting at 1.5"/1.4 lift. I just want a little extra clearance under the sprung components (especially fuel tank) and will go with a slightly larger tire (275/70 17 ??? still debating.). Really the only negative I've noticed with the Hitachis is some annoying brake dive. I have a winch which settled the front about 3/8" so this should help with that as well. Also, I've been concerned that my spring compressor wouldn't be adequate, but it looks like you have the same one so good. I have a couple 1" spacer lifts I thought about hybridizing with this (maybe split my 2 piece front and rear) not sure it's a good idea. I appreciate, but don't fully understand, your comments on travel. Do you think I's loose much set at 1.5"/1.4"?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

1.5" and 1.4" setting puts you very close to factory SAS ride levels. Your travel numbers are in the red box.

You will find that you have to break the top strut nut loose with spring tension still on the coil. Then completely take the spring pressure off to take the strut apart.

As far as spring compressors they seized while doing the front and had to get cut off(that was fun!). Lucky for me they sell identical ones at the auto parts store a block away. Moral of the story is don't use M18 high torque 1/2 impact on spring compressors, I stepped back down to 1/4 drive impact with an adapter.

 

[dgorsett]

1.5" and 1.4" setting puts you very close to factory SAS ride levels. Your travel numbers are in the red box.

You will find that you have to break the top strut nut loose with spring tension still on the coil. Then completely take the spring pressure off to take the strut apart.

As far as spring compressors they seized while doing the front and had to get cut off(that was fun!). Lucky for me they sell identical ones at the auto parts store a block away. Moral of the story is don't use M18 high torque 1/2 impact on spring compressors, I stepped back down to 1/4 drive impact with an adapter.

Thanks, good news (travel), good advice (loosen nut first) and bad news (spring compressor)! Somewhere with my compressor it says use hand tools only, I think I'll go with that!

 

[chtucker]

Well I finally have enough mileage on my 5100 shocks to say I like them and post my collection of info. 5100's feel stiffer than Hitachi's due to the digressive valving. If you feel your Hitachi shocks are to bouncy the 5100s would be a good purchase for you. If you are sensitive to small bumps in the road and don't want to feel them don't buy 5100's. The biggest change for me is the local speed bumps that are a 20mph bump. These 20mph bumps with the Hitachi suspension was a hard bottom out for me. I can now respectfully drive 40mph over the same bump and no bottoming out. Front 5100's can definitely handle more speed on these bumps but the rear at its limit (losing tire contact with the ground). For $550 they are absolutely a no brainer upgrade since 5100 tend to last 2-3 times longer than factory shock. If your paying someone to install a front lift and want to keep your bronco for a long time your money ahead putting 5100s on.

I would not put 5100's on a SAS bronco, they are the same diameter but missing some of the improvements that SAS shock offers (rebound and reservoirs). If you are looking at replacing SAS shocks after they have worn out I would say these are going to be a good option for similar performance (not an improvement). I couldn't find SAS take offs for fair money so for me the 5100's are a nice upgrade.

Snacktime's bad idea's start here and below...

Hard Numbers for all Bilstein shocks are pretty much the same. Front are almost Identical to factory SAS Shocks, below are 5100's and SAS specs. I believe the shorter collapsed length on the 5100 is the bump stop strike plate design(eats about 5mm or 1/2 cm of travel).

Rear has slightly less travel again I think the strike plate for the bump stops is the reason. The overall shock length is 5.7mm shorter or 1/2cm, which I consider a mute point (if it was more I would have passed on the 5100 and bought take off SAS Shocks).

My ruff math and my issue with Bilstein not being long enough. Below you will see my excel sheet I used to figure out if it was worth buying 5100s and what kind of suspension travel I would get. Below in the blue is stock Front SAS travel and 5100 at 1in (really 5100's are a 1/4 inch less up travel but your not fighting up travel). Same with the rear in yellow. Biggest issue with lifting stock suspension on the road and day to day is running out of droop and lifting a tire. 5100 are being sold as a lift 1" to 3", same as sticking a 2" collar lift on stock SAS shocks. I don't like the idea of running 5100's at 3" ride height with 1.24" of available droop. Since I was looking for as much lift as I can (3.5" to 4" is what is considered safe at this time) and keeping as much down travel as possible. You will see I stuck a spacer lift in with the shocks, this was to keep my down travel. I ended up putting the collars at the green highlighted number. With the added weight of my skids and when I stick my winch on(hiding in the garage) I will most likely lose a 1/2" on the front taking me from 3.8" of lift down to 3.3" (guessing). With the height reduction I should have 2" of down travel. I also have the ability to adjust and add more height to the front if needed. Spacers allow me more droop and hopefully provide a better on road experience over just maxing out the 5100's.

Side shot

Crappy shot of cv angles

Bad ideas

Alignment on stock A-Arms

The End-Please feel free to comment on my bad ideas... as this is a forum.

Thanks for the data.. I have been doing the same sort of preplanning for either Bilstein 6100s, coil overs or OME shocks. I have a SAS FE that has sagged due to my mods. I do want a 1" to 1.5" lift above my stock height and to level. Not fit bigger tires, but to get the belly up higher.

Interesting thoughts about the droop on the 5100s- I don't want to lose range of motion after using a higher circlip location... and they all seem to do that.

 

[Snacktime]

Thanks for the data.. I have been doing the same sort of preplanning for either Bilstein 6100s, coil overs or OME shocks. I have a SAS FE that has sagged due to my mods. I do want a 1" to 1.5" lift above my stock height and to level. Not fit bigger tires, but to get the belly up higher.

Interesting thoughts about the droop on the 5100s- I don't want to lose range of motion after using a higher circlip location... and they all seem to do that.

6100's are same length as 5100's and going to have the same limitations. I just don't see the value in a bigger shock that doesn't capitalize on providing more travel (Bilstein left at least 1.4" off the length of the shock). Your right on about losing range of motion, which is why spacers seem to have a place on these rigs vs circlip/collar spacers.

OME are longer and a better option than 5100's when it comes to going off road. The issue with OME is broncos have such a wide range of curb weights that it becomes hard to figure out lift vs spring options. I spent a while trying to figure out a combination that would worked for me. I just ended up not wanting to spend $1500 and then have change out springs if I didn't guess right. I keep waiting for more people to buy OME and post different combinations. I have a spread sheet I built but I'm missing to much information to get ride heights calculated. Then you have to factor in how stiff springs effect your articulation (one of the many reasons I felt more comfortable buy 5100's).

 

[Silence]

Here's 5100s with position 5 (highest lift), no spacer. Personally i love the ride and firmness vs Hitachi. Im sure i will change down the road but for $550, the value can't be beat.

 

[Silence]

Side view on more level surface.

 

[Felix808]

Great info. Thanks for posting

 

[Mzekew]

Side view on more level surface.

What size tires are you running?

 

[Clint Callahan]

Side view on more level surface.

Those look great! What size tires are on that hoss? I’m pretty settled on 5100’s and this helps

 

[Silence]

35x12.5. I could likely run 37s at this height given the clearance but not needed for me.

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