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Snacktime

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You think the compressor will get enough airflow behind the panel? I thought about installing a computer fan or similar to my panels for when I bolt in all the inverters and chargers and whatnot just to keep air moving in there.
Like this? Mine is green! I am hoping the cool air goes in and I insolated the fender to keep the temp down. I am actually thinking about a water separator as the moisture is now a bit much. The 1/0 was a massive improvement in performance I was killing 100amp fuses if I filled 3 tires in a row.
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Yeah pretty much exactly like that LOL
You have it on a separate circuit or only when the air is turned on? I have one aux switch left and I'm saving it to trigger onboard electronics (inverter/radios/etc), figured if I was powering that stuff I might as well have the fan kick on at the same time.

How many amps is that compressor rated for? I think my twin ARB is in the neighborhood of 65-70A
 
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Yeah pretty much exactly like that LOL
You have it on a separate circuit or only when the air is turned on? I have one aux switch left and I'm saving it to trigger onboard electronics (inverter/radios/etc), figured if I was powering that stuff I might as well have the fan kick on at the same time.

How many amps is that compressor rated for? I think my twin ARB is in the neighborhood of 65-70A
It's wire into the rear aux switch with the compressor. Like a check engine light if the compressor blows another fuse.
 

87-Z28

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Very aware of the bump stops. I need longer shocks shorter bumps are only going to net me another 1" of stuff. Not worth it as I want some cushion when coming down off 3 wheels.
I am sure you already know this. I am just figuring things out. I always was a little slow and late to the party. 😂

if big meats is running SAS shocks then I think they have that ESCV thing. Essentially significantly increasing resistance at the end of travel. I have never looked closely at SAS shock and didn’t even know that was possible. It must act as an internal bump stop. Probably develops pretty high fluid pressures when slammed in fully compressed state but surely the have longevity figured out. So probably no issue for him slicing up his bump stop. His bump stop looked real close to the one I pulled from the hitachis and reused. Ford must just be reusing them to be conservative and keep cost down.

anyway, you and I are running fairly digressive aftermarket bilsteins. They don’t apply much additional resistance at high displacement rates. Slamming down a wheel, even when moving slow, can be a high rate event for the shock. A few inches in a fraction of a second. Probably >20 in/s in very violent events. Probably not a great idea for us to cut bump stops if we are expecting to frequently achieve max compression.

thanks for the insight and experience. Really like learning from you guys that are out there testing things out.
 
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I am sure you already know this. I am just figuring things out. I always was a little slow and late to the party. 😂

if big meats is running SAS shocks then I think they have that ESCV thing. Essentially significantly increasing resistance at the end of travel. I have never looked closely at SAS shock and didn’t even know that was possible. It must act as an internal bump stop. Probably develops pretty high fluid pressures when slammed in fully compressed state but surely the have longevity figured out. So probably no issue for him slicing up his bump stop. His bump stop looked real close to the one I pulled from the hitachis and reused. Ford must just be reusing them to be conservative and keep cost down.

anyway, you and I are running fairly digressive aftermarket bilsteins. They don’t apply much additional resistance at high displacement rates. Slamming down a wheel, even when moving slow, can be a high rate event for the shock. A few inches in a fraction of a second. Probably >20 in/s in very violent events. Probably not a great idea for us to cut bump stops if we are expecting to frequently achieve max compression.

thanks for the insight and experience. Really like learning from you guys that are out there testing things out.
Escv shocks have a plunger on a spring that plug off holes in the main plunger towards the end the stroke. Pretty ingenious way to add dampen near max compression and droop. I really want a linear shock for rock crawling and daily driving. I keep eyeing rancho 9000s but they are to much money so I am waiting for Dobinsons to come out. All in all most people want to jump their broncos, so I doubt we are going to get a real slow speed offroad suspension.
 

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Escv shocks have a plunger on a spring that plug off holes in the main plunger towards the end the stroke. Pretty ingenious way to add dampen near max compression and droop. I really want a linear shock for rock crawling and daily driving. I keep eyeing rancho 9000s but they are to much money so I am waiting for Dobinsons to come out. All in all most people want to jump their broncos, so I doubt we are going to get a real slow speed offroad suspension.

I know they're pretty polarizing and a lot more than RS9000's, but have you considered ORI struts? They work well with low speed stuff because you can dial in the upper and lower chambers to behave the way you want them in the rocks. A lot of buggies run them for the purpose of controlling rebound and the way a tire behaves when lifted. For street you'd have the ability to dial in ride height and leveling, and even drop or raise spring preload without affecting ride height. They're up to 1900lbs per corner now, so our Broncos are well within their rating. Last I looked there was a shock length that might work, it was a little longer in both compression and extension but if you could figure out how to accommodate the extra length you'd have more travel to work with. ORI's have internal 1" hydro bumps, but you could always add on some decent standalone bumps if those aren't enough.

My interest with them lies primarily in easy tuning for when I get more wheel travel...since it'll be one-off I'd rather not spend half a year swapping out coils and valves until I get it all dialed in. I can toss a set of ORI's on and be wheeling in a day or two, then figure out the expensive coilovers at my leisure.
 
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@Tex been around Ori back in the day, they have a poor length to travel ratio. Not a big deal on a buggy but a bronco would be a tuff package. I also remember them being extremely finicky but that was gen 1 product.

I am going to dig back into them and see, but cost wise they are the same as off the shelf coilovers now.
 
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Getting legal! Next stop is the tire shop, going to stay with a set of cheap small trailer tires for now. Hope to find a bigger axle down the road and add some bronco lug pattern wheels.

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Nice. Will you go with same size tire so essentially you’d have 2 spare tires? Also when you do a new axle will you do a solid or independent?

I’ve been tossing around the idea of an indie “axle” while my stock rims sit here waiting for me to build an “overland” trailer. Can’t wait to get back to MI to start many projects this fall. I miss all my fab tools and barn. Been 2 yrs since I set foot in it. Glad I can follow this thread to get a fix on my fab jonesing. My next purchase is a mandrel bender. Might have a good lead on a scotchman/ironworker/piranha or whatever else you wanna call them. You know a combo press, shear, punch, brake and nibbler
 
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Nice. Will you go with same size tire so essentially you’d have 2 spare tires? Also when you do a new axle will you do a solid or independent?

I’ve been tossing around the idea of an indie “axle” while my stock rims sit here waiting for me to build an “overland” trailer. Can’t wait to get back to MI to start many projects this fall. I miss all my fab tools and barn. Been 2 yrs since I set foot in it. Glad I can follow this thread to get a fix on my fab jonesing. My next purchase is a mandrel bender. Might have a good lead on a scotchman/ironworker/piranha or whatever else you wanna call them. You know a combo press, shear, punch, brake and nibbler
Getting legal! Next stop is the tire shop, going to stay with a set of cheap small trailer tires for now. Hope to find a bigger axle down the road and add some bronco lug pattern wheels.

Ford Bronco Snacktime's Broken Bronco Build PXL_20230602_154409547
Love the trailer. I’m waiting to start finishing mine soon too. Maybe in a few months.
Between my two Jeeps and Bronco I have too much projects.

It’s an old military trailer on 33’s. The sides are modular and slide out and then slide in flat making a much larger flat bed. Also has provision for the kayaks. I wanna adda rack that slides in as well for an RTT one day

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Love the trailer. I’m waiting to start finishing mine soon too. Maybe in a few months.
Between my two Jeeps and Bronco I have too much projects.

It’s an old military trailer on 33’s. The sides are modular and slide out and then slide in flat making a much larger flat bed. Also has provision for the kayaks. I wanna adda rack that slides in as well for an RTT one day

Ford Bronco Snacktime's Broken Bronco Build E7FA42C5-F64F-4573-9B46-73A7586425A5
Everyone wanted to much money for a real offroad trailer. Yours looks way lighter than mine.
 
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Offroad summary from our trail cleanup



Well the leaf springs on my trailer are way to stiff, going to pull a leaf or 2. I might buy some new spring bushing? Or maybe just buy some longer leaf springs? Also looking at trying a regular hitch with 4-6" drop.

I also picked up an RCI Transfer Case Skid, going to give it a good work over before I say yes or no. I wanted flat, simple and rear mounting point this time. The rear support is bolt on, I will give a couple of whacks before I decide if I should just weld it on. Also may weld an extension plate if I decide I need more coverage extending towards the rear. Also I am not going to try protecting the bolts, I ground down the conical washer hex bolts to the point that I needed to hammer a torq bit in to remove them. I figure regular bolts may be easier to remove with an extractor or just weld a nut on.

Ford Bronco Snacktime's Broken Bronco Build 1685977879338
 

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Good to see people keeping the trails clean 👌

Skid plate manufacturers really need to incorporate recessed bolt holes. They might lose a tiny bit of clearance from having a thicker skid but it's better than having to break out angle grinders and whatnot to get the skids off. One option would be to add UHMW to the skid that'll completely cover and protect the mounting bolts, and using something like this to hold the UHMW to the skid:

its-All-Polaris-General-Ranger-RS1-RZR-500-570-700.jpg
 
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Good to see people keeping the trails clean 👌

Skid plate manufacturers really need to incorporate recessed bolt holes. They might lose a tiny bit of clearance from having a thicker skid but it's better than having to break out angle grinders and whatnot to get the skids off. One option would be to add UHMW to the skid that'll completely cover and protect the mounting bolts, and using something like this to hold the UHMW to the skid:
I gave up on complex design and went for stupid and simple approach. Really a steel framed set up with uhmw would be my first choice, you could very easily make something better than most of the current offering.

It's wheeling season here, so it's an off the shelf item. My new transmission skid just got delivered, going to mock that up tomorrow and see if I like it. I bought some 3/4" x 1" steel tubing to build a frame behind the skid to help it survive. I did get the skid for free with my BroncBuster pyramid scheme points, so this is a pretty budget option for me.

I am hopeful I will be able to buy or build bumpers soon.
 
 


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