Some install notes on the Diode Dynamic Cross-link light bar

[swampdawg]

I finished the DD SS5 Crosslink install. The most challenging part was figuring out where and how to run the wires to the engine compartment. I have the up-fitter switches in the Bronco, but everyone, including the manufacturer, is saying that the upfitter wire in that area (all areas) is too small a gauge to carry the electrical load of this light bar properly. I had to figure out how to get the wires to the needed spot the cleanest and the least invasively. Drilling was the LAST option I was considering, but I knew that the possibility was there. On either side of the windshield, there is a little channel that, with enough time and patience, you can use a plastic interior removal tool to push the wires into that channel. I found it easier to start at the top where there is a larger gap. It seems relatively easier to start there and work your way down. It's slow but very doable. The other thing I found is as you get closer to the bottom of the windshield, the wires have probably twisted up, and if you don't let the harness twist around, then you'll end up with a bundle that won't give and is almost like a knot that won't fit. You have to let the harness twist around. As you get to the bottom, undo the A-pillar torks bolt and the antennae and pull the plastic up to give yourself more room to maneuver. The last challenge will also make the install cleaner go all the way to the bottom where there is a gap, like at the top. The a-pillar plastic has an opening under the lip to run wires to the a-pillar accessory-ready spot. After that, the remaining hooking of the wiring is a piece of cake!

Also, as an aside, I ran the backlighting power through a separate power circuit through an "add a circuit" to the under-hood fuse box. I did not want to use a separate up-fitter switch to change the backlighting. When I powered up the lightbar, two lights had different colors. I must have flicked the power switch to the light bar a thousand times before I figured out what I was doing wrong. You have to pull all power to the backlighting, not just switch the power on and off three times fast. You have to interrupt the power to the backlighting either through a switch or, in my case, I had a fuse that I could pull and rapidly touch the fuse back to the power. After I figured that out, the rest of the programming was easy.

I hope this will help others tackle this themselves who may be struggling to figure out what they are doing wrong.

Good Luck! If I can do it, you can do it.

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[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

I'd recommend not using a fuse tap for your back-lighting. Driving around with the back-lit and that size bar will yield attention from police. And if they ever get out of sync, you may not know until you get pulled over.

For the wiring... yeah don't use the wire up there, it's 100% useless. We use the KC wire hiders on all of our installations:

https://www.4x4truckleds.com/kc-hilites-universal-wire-hider/

Here is what it looks like, nice and out of sight

 

[BryantC]

I finished the DD SS5 Crosslink install. The most challenging part was figuring out where and how to run the wires to the engine compartment. I have the up-fitter switches in the Bronco, but everyone, including the manufacturer, is saying that the upfitter wire in that area (all areas) is too small a gauge to carry the electrical load of this light bar properly. I had to figure out how to get the wires to the needed spot the cleanest and the least invasively. Drilling was the LAST option I was considering, but I knew that the possibility was there. On either side of the windshield, there is a little channel that, with enough time and patience, you can use a plastic interior removal tool to push the wires into that channel. I found it easier to start at the top where there is a larger gap. It seems relatively easier to start there and work your way down. It's slow but very doable. The other thing I found is as you get closer to the bottom of the windshield, the wires have probably twisted up, and if you don't let the harness twist around, then you'll end up with a bundle that won't give and is almost like a knot that won't fit. You have to let the harness twist around. As you get to the bottom, undo the A-pillar torks bolt and the antennae and pull the plastic up to give yourself more room to maneuver. The last challenge will also make the install cleaner go all the way to the bottom where there is a gap, like at the top. The a-pillar plastic has an opening under the lip to run wires to the a-pillar accessory-ready spot. After that, the remaining hooking of the wiring is a piece of cake!

Also, as an aside, I ran the backlighting power through a separate power circuit through an "add a circuit" to the under-hood fuse box. I did not want to use a separate up-fitter switch to change the backlighting. When I powered up the lightbar, two lights had different colors. I must have flicked the power switch to the light bar a thousand times before I figured out what I was doing wrong. You have to pull all power to the backlighting, not just switch the power on and off three times fast. You have to interrupt the power to the backlighting either through a switch or, in my case, I had a fuse that I could pull and rapidly touch the fuse back to the power. After I figured that out, the rest of the programming was easy.

I hope this will help others tackle this themselves who may be struggling to figure out what they are doing wrong.

Good Luck! If I can do it, you can do it.

Do you have pictures? Would like to see how you have that wire run along side the windshield.

 

[swampdawg]

Here are the pictures I took today. I have the KC hide a wire that I thought I was going to have to use but ended up not needing. $10 and shipping for the hide-a-wire will have it at your door. 4x4TruckLeds.com is where I bought the lights and Alex at 4x4truckleds.com is the guy I pestered with wiring questions. He helped quite a bit with simple questions for him but seemingly brain surgery for me. Thanks again Adam and the 4x4Truckleds group.

 

[BryantC]

Pretty slick.

 

[rayofsi]

thanks for confirming it'll fit into the gap. i will probably do the same

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

That looks pretty good. My names Adam btw Not Alex

 

[swampdawg]

That looks pretty good. My names Adam btw Not Alex

Edited. I got the "A" right

 

[broncosaurus_bend]

I finished the DD SS5 Crosslink install. The most challenging part was figuring out where and how to run the wires to the engine compartment. I have the up-fitter switches in the Bronco, but everyone, including the manufacturer, is saying that the upfitter wire in that area (all areas) is too small a gauge to carry the electrical load of this light bar properly. I had to figure out how to get the wires to the needed spot the cleanest and the least invasively. Drilling was the LAST option I was considering, but I knew that the possibility was there. On either side of the windshield, there is a little channel that, with enough time and patience, you can use a plastic interior removal tool to push the wires into that channel. I found it easier to start at the top where there is a larger gap. It seems relatively easier to start there and work your way down. It's slow but very doable. The other thing I found is as you get closer to the bottom of the windshield, the wires have probably twisted up, and if you don't let the harness twist around, then you'll end up with a bundle that won't give and is almost like a knot that won't fit. You have to let the harness twist around. As you get to the bottom, undo the A-pillar torks bolt and the antennae and pull the plastic up to give yourself more room to maneuver. The last challenge will also make the install cleaner go all the way to the bottom where there is a gap, like at the top. The a-pillar plastic has an opening under the lip to run wires to the a-pillar accessory-ready spot. After that, the remaining hooking of the wiring is a piece of cake!

Also, as an aside, I ran the backlighting power through a separate power circuit through an "add a circuit" to the under-hood fuse box. I did not want to use a separate up-fitter switch to change the backlighting. When I powered up the lightbar, two lights had different colors. I must have flicked the power switch to the light bar a thousand times before I figured out what I was doing wrong. You have to pull all power to the backlighting, not just switch the power on and off three times fast. You have to interrupt the power to the backlighting either through a switch or, in my case, I had a fuse that I could pull and rapidly touch the fuse back to the power. After I figured that out, the rest of the programming was easy.

I hope this will help others tackle this themselves who may be struggling to figure out what they are doing wrong.

Good Luck! If I can do it, you can do it.

Thank you very much for this! Your write up makes sense and convinced me to go for the SS5 cross link setup!
Do you have any pics or recommendations for cleaning up the daisy chained link wiring on the back of the pods? I was thinking some marine heat shrink might do the trick.

 

[swampdawg]

I left them alone. I could see wrapping them with something. You really don't see them except when the top is off. Glad you got it done.

 

[Diode Dynamics]

Awesome thread! Thanks for sharing!

 

[broncosaurus_bend]

Are your SS5 pods the sport or pro model? I think the wires are a larger gauge for pro that use the Ultra Heavy Duty single-output harness than the Heavy Duty single-output harness. For the pro/ultra I don’t think they will fit in the windshield channel, I also tried removing the loom but the red and black wires are 14 or 12 gauge on their own.

Aside from the wire not fitting, likely will go with the KC hider now, my main beams don’t work, only backlights that I can hopefully resolve with DD support. They do look incredible in person

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