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- Ryan
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From September 1 to September 12, we had taken a trip that covered Texas, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah. The focus point of the trip was in Silverton, Colorado. One of the main hopes I had on this trip was to overland as self-sufficiently as possible while covering the most ground (that didn’t exactly turn out as I had expected). Leading up to this trip, my plan had to change numerous times and, in most cases, at the last minute. Also, know that I am a total noob off-roader so I targeted the easiest trails for my first experience.
I know this is lengthy, but a good part of me writing it out like this is also for me and my memory.
Day 1: Crossing TX
The trip kicked off on September 1, as we set out from South Texas. There are virtually no public lands in Texas and not much to see, especially the further west you go turns more desert. We drove 691mi to get across the state and make it into south New Mexico to camp on some BLM land before dark. We were barely successful and managed to find a spot on public land not far off the road. The location required a bit of a climb on loose rock but ended up being a nice view.
Day 2: Crossing Southern NM
Since it was a little warm, we slept the with the windows open in the roof top tent. But at about 5am I awoke to wet splattering on my face. It was raining and my first thought was fear that the trail to get to our spot might flood making it difficult for us to get back to the road. I know it probably wasn’t the most rational thought now, but it’s my first time doing this… So, I tore everything down and packed up while drenched in the rain. After checking the weather, I realized I could have just waited 10 more minutes, and I wouldn’t have had to get soaked.
So, after adrenaline replaced my normal morning coffee routine, we decided to head into the city of Carlsbad, NM for a reset and breakfast. We had plans to go to Carlsbad Caverns National Park on this day but ended up passing on it due to logistical changes. We had several stops planned in New Mexico but ended up not stopping at any of them other than camp.
We proceeded to our next camp north of Albuquerque, NM, also on public land. This was a good drive out into the middle of nowhere on dirt roads that reduced to tire tracks with a few simple rutted dirt obstacles. We found a clearing nestled into a nice cove of low cliff ridges and set up for dinner and sleep.
Day 3: Crossing Northern NM/ Mesa Verde NP, CO
After setting out we were anticipating making some of our planned scenic stops in northwest New Mexico but then we realized that we might be able to make it to Mesa Verde National Park for their last tour of the day. So, we just trucked it there. Turnes out we made it 15min late. But luckily their campground in the park had plenty of room because I did not have any preplanned public land camp spots in this area, and it was getting dark soon. We did one of the self-guided hikes in the park and made camp at their grounds there. Bonus, they had showers and a breakfast shop with all you can eat pancakes.
Day 4: Mesa Verde NP/Silverton, CO
We enjoyed the showers and pancakes. We booked the earliest tour of the Cliff Palace in Mesa Verde and got to experience that awesome history.
We had plans to meet with family in Silverton, CO on this day so we headed there to look for a camp that would fit all of us. After some driving around we found a camp area on public land which had a nice space by the river for us. We were able to meet up with my mother, who I don’t get to see very often, and my younger brother who was passing through the area for the night.
Day 5: Southwest Alpine Loop (Animas Forks, Cinnamon Pass)
We planned to hike the 14052 ft Handies Peak on this day which was just past the west entry to Cinnamon Pass of the Alpine Loop. We set out from Silverton and took the trail to Animas Forks. We took the turn to Cinnamon Pass, passing on the Animas Forks ghost town for now, and made the climb to the top of pass. After getting to the top, we could feel that altitude affecting us sea level dwellers as we were at 12640 ft. We got there a little later than we hoped and considering the altitude affecting us already (much less the 14k Handies Peak) we decided to just go back to check out the ghost town of Animas Forks and eat some lunch. The town was awesome and very well preserved. Its always a great experience to walk in the places of long lost history. While eating we were visited by numerous foxes that were way to comfortable with people. They would harass us getting almost within arm’s reach. We soon discovered why as people passing through the area were unfortunately feeding them. But it did give the opportunity for some beautiful pictures.
After exploring the ghost town, we made our way back to Silverton for dinner and eventually back to camp for the night.
Day 6: South Mineral Road/ Minnie Gulch Trails
We decided to do a closer/shorter trail in the morning since my dad would be coming into the area with their ATVs in the afternoon. We did the South Mineral Road Trail just west of Silverton. Yet another beautiful trail and a bonus surprise. Once getting a little way into the trail, I stopped in a tight little pull-off to air down. As I was airing down my wife and mother went off exploring the area on foot. They came back very excited and took me to hike down the steep hill we were on through the woods to a waterfall. We would not have ever known it was there unless we stopped at that spot on the trial, and they explored on foot.
We continued on the trail, which was overall pretty easy with loose rock, a few minor solid rock obstacles, a shallow water crossing, minor/moderate shelf roads, and some mud ruts at the end. We arrived at a beautiful valley with a river and some old mining structures. We ate some lunch and then headed back to camp to meet my dad.
After we linked up, we all piled in the Bronco and decided to hit another trail before the end of the day. It unfortunately started sprinkling rain. We went east out of Silverton and did the Minnie Gulch trail. As soon as we arrived at the trailhead, it started pouring. The start of the trail was a fairly steep grade climb on loose rock. I aired down in the rain and then we started the trail. Shortly after starting, the rain turned to soft chunks of hail/snow. The trail is a good climb up mostly a comfortable width shelf road. The increasingly wet conditions were making me a little nervous. Along the trail there were some little abandoned cabins which was so interesting to think that people lived that remotely. Probably along the second half of the trail the chunks of hail/snow started to accumulate on the trees and ground making a layer of white contrast to the plants and dirt. There was a small water crossing, some minor off camber moments, and plenty of minor/moderate uneven terrain obstacles. We reached the end to a beautiful view of the gulch but unfortunately, the weather was still pretty gloomy.
We made our way back to Silverton for dinner then back to camp.
Day 7: Picayune, Placer, California Gulch Trails
On this day, we wanted to be on the trails all day. My dad brought 2 ATVs, which for most of the day, everyone was riding those leaving the Bronco almost all to myself. The plan was to trail towards Animas Forks and hit Picayune Gulch trail moving west to cover Placer Gulch trail and California Gulch trail then circling back to Silverton from the north. This was a long trail since I average a pretty slow pace, but I can say that it was beautiful with large grand views. The whole trail wasn’t overall difficult but had all the expected things you would find on a trail in the mountains, loose rock, washouts, shelf roads, minor/moderate rocky obstacles, minor off camber moments, a good amount of fairly tight switchbacks, and some pretty steep grades up and down. There were lots of old mining structures, remnants of aerial tramways, mining shafts (mostly sealed up), and of course beautiful rivers and mountain views. Making it to the highest point on the California Pass was one heck of a view. This would be the close of our time in Silverton.
Day 8: Ouray, CO/ Moab, UT
The next day we went north to Ouray, CO for some hot springs. After a morning of relaxing hot water, we parted ways with my parents and made our way to Moab, Utah. We got into Moab later than I hoped and didn’t want to go searching public lands for a camp spot, so we stayed at the KOA. It didn’t hurt that we got access to showers, laundry, and a swimming pool. We decided that we just wanted to check out Arches National Park since we were coming up on the end of our available time on this trip. I would have loved to spend more time in this state for some off roading, but I’ll have to save that for another trip.
Day 9: Arches NP, UT
We started our day with breakfast in town and headed straight to Arches National Park. I’m probably not saying what most don’t already know, but this place was awesome. We drove the whole park and did 2 hikes. One of them was the iconic Delicate Arch which was on heck of a hike in the heat. We finished up at the park and went into Moab for a nice dinner before camp back at the KOA.
Day 10: Southbound/ New Mexico
At this point we started making our way back home and this day was pretty much all highway driving. We did get to see Chimney Rock though. We made our way back into New Mexico where we went back to the same general area to camp as we did coming up.
Day 11: Carlsbad Caverns NP, NM
Since we were making good time we decided to make the stop at Carlsbad Caverns National Park since we didn’t get to do that on the way up as planned. That was also another epic experience. We, again, camped at the same public lands area that we did on our way up since it was close by and it was late. Also because there would be nowhere to camp in Texas without a reservation and I didn’t want to get a hotel.
Day 12: Home
This time we didn’t get rained out so we made some camp pancakes and coffee and made the last stretch home across Texas.
I know this is lengthy, but a good part of me writing it out like this is also for me and my memory.
Day 1: Crossing TX
The trip kicked off on September 1, as we set out from South Texas. There are virtually no public lands in Texas and not much to see, especially the further west you go turns more desert. We drove 691mi to get across the state and make it into south New Mexico to camp on some BLM land before dark. We were barely successful and managed to find a spot on public land not far off the road. The location required a bit of a climb on loose rock but ended up being a nice view.
Day 2: Crossing Southern NM
Since it was a little warm, we slept the with the windows open in the roof top tent. But at about 5am I awoke to wet splattering on my face. It was raining and my first thought was fear that the trail to get to our spot might flood making it difficult for us to get back to the road. I know it probably wasn’t the most rational thought now, but it’s my first time doing this… So, I tore everything down and packed up while drenched in the rain. After checking the weather, I realized I could have just waited 10 more minutes, and I wouldn’t have had to get soaked.
So, after adrenaline replaced my normal morning coffee routine, we decided to head into the city of Carlsbad, NM for a reset and breakfast. We had plans to go to Carlsbad Caverns National Park on this day but ended up passing on it due to logistical changes. We had several stops planned in New Mexico but ended up not stopping at any of them other than camp.
We proceeded to our next camp north of Albuquerque, NM, also on public land. This was a good drive out into the middle of nowhere on dirt roads that reduced to tire tracks with a few simple rutted dirt obstacles. We found a clearing nestled into a nice cove of low cliff ridges and set up for dinner and sleep.
Day 3: Crossing Northern NM/ Mesa Verde NP, CO
After setting out we were anticipating making some of our planned scenic stops in northwest New Mexico but then we realized that we might be able to make it to Mesa Verde National Park for their last tour of the day. So, we just trucked it there. Turnes out we made it 15min late. But luckily their campground in the park had plenty of room because I did not have any preplanned public land camp spots in this area, and it was getting dark soon. We did one of the self-guided hikes in the park and made camp at their grounds there. Bonus, they had showers and a breakfast shop with all you can eat pancakes.
Day 4: Mesa Verde NP/Silverton, CO
We enjoyed the showers and pancakes. We booked the earliest tour of the Cliff Palace in Mesa Verde and got to experience that awesome history.
We had plans to meet with family in Silverton, CO on this day so we headed there to look for a camp that would fit all of us. After some driving around we found a camp area on public land which had a nice space by the river for us. We were able to meet up with my mother, who I don’t get to see very often, and my younger brother who was passing through the area for the night.
Day 5: Southwest Alpine Loop (Animas Forks, Cinnamon Pass)
We planned to hike the 14052 ft Handies Peak on this day which was just past the west entry to Cinnamon Pass of the Alpine Loop. We set out from Silverton and took the trail to Animas Forks. We took the turn to Cinnamon Pass, passing on the Animas Forks ghost town for now, and made the climb to the top of pass. After getting to the top, we could feel that altitude affecting us sea level dwellers as we were at 12640 ft. We got there a little later than we hoped and considering the altitude affecting us already (much less the 14k Handies Peak) we decided to just go back to check out the ghost town of Animas Forks and eat some lunch. The town was awesome and very well preserved. Its always a great experience to walk in the places of long lost history. While eating we were visited by numerous foxes that were way to comfortable with people. They would harass us getting almost within arm’s reach. We soon discovered why as people passing through the area were unfortunately feeding them. But it did give the opportunity for some beautiful pictures.
After exploring the ghost town, we made our way back to Silverton for dinner and eventually back to camp for the night.
Day 6: South Mineral Road/ Minnie Gulch Trails
We decided to do a closer/shorter trail in the morning since my dad would be coming into the area with their ATVs in the afternoon. We did the South Mineral Road Trail just west of Silverton. Yet another beautiful trail and a bonus surprise. Once getting a little way into the trail, I stopped in a tight little pull-off to air down. As I was airing down my wife and mother went off exploring the area on foot. They came back very excited and took me to hike down the steep hill we were on through the woods to a waterfall. We would not have ever known it was there unless we stopped at that spot on the trial, and they explored on foot.
We continued on the trail, which was overall pretty easy with loose rock, a few minor solid rock obstacles, a shallow water crossing, minor/moderate shelf roads, and some mud ruts at the end. We arrived at a beautiful valley with a river and some old mining structures. We ate some lunch and then headed back to camp to meet my dad.
After we linked up, we all piled in the Bronco and decided to hit another trail before the end of the day. It unfortunately started sprinkling rain. We went east out of Silverton and did the Minnie Gulch trail. As soon as we arrived at the trailhead, it started pouring. The start of the trail was a fairly steep grade climb on loose rock. I aired down in the rain and then we started the trail. Shortly after starting, the rain turned to soft chunks of hail/snow. The trail is a good climb up mostly a comfortable width shelf road. The increasingly wet conditions were making me a little nervous. Along the trail there were some little abandoned cabins which was so interesting to think that people lived that remotely. Probably along the second half of the trail the chunks of hail/snow started to accumulate on the trees and ground making a layer of white contrast to the plants and dirt. There was a small water crossing, some minor off camber moments, and plenty of minor/moderate uneven terrain obstacles. We reached the end to a beautiful view of the gulch but unfortunately, the weather was still pretty gloomy.
We made our way back to Silverton for dinner then back to camp.
Day 7: Picayune, Placer, California Gulch Trails
On this day, we wanted to be on the trails all day. My dad brought 2 ATVs, which for most of the day, everyone was riding those leaving the Bronco almost all to myself. The plan was to trail towards Animas Forks and hit Picayune Gulch trail moving west to cover Placer Gulch trail and California Gulch trail then circling back to Silverton from the north. This was a long trail since I average a pretty slow pace, but I can say that it was beautiful with large grand views. The whole trail wasn’t overall difficult but had all the expected things you would find on a trail in the mountains, loose rock, washouts, shelf roads, minor/moderate rocky obstacles, minor off camber moments, a good amount of fairly tight switchbacks, and some pretty steep grades up and down. There were lots of old mining structures, remnants of aerial tramways, mining shafts (mostly sealed up), and of course beautiful rivers and mountain views. Making it to the highest point on the California Pass was one heck of a view. This would be the close of our time in Silverton.
Day 8: Ouray, CO/ Moab, UT
The next day we went north to Ouray, CO for some hot springs. After a morning of relaxing hot water, we parted ways with my parents and made our way to Moab, Utah. We got into Moab later than I hoped and didn’t want to go searching public lands for a camp spot, so we stayed at the KOA. It didn’t hurt that we got access to showers, laundry, and a swimming pool. We decided that we just wanted to check out Arches National Park since we were coming up on the end of our available time on this trip. I would have loved to spend more time in this state for some off roading, but I’ll have to save that for another trip.
Day 9: Arches NP, UT
We started our day with breakfast in town and headed straight to Arches National Park. I’m probably not saying what most don’t already know, but this place was awesome. We drove the whole park and did 2 hikes. One of them was the iconic Delicate Arch which was on heck of a hike in the heat. We finished up at the park and went into Moab for a nice dinner before camp back at the KOA.
Day 10: Southbound/ New Mexico
At this point we started making our way back home and this day was pretty much all highway driving. We did get to see Chimney Rock though. We made our way back into New Mexico where we went back to the same general area to camp as we did coming up.
Day 11: Carlsbad Caverns NP, NM
Since we were making good time we decided to make the stop at Carlsbad Caverns National Park since we didn’t get to do that on the way up as planned. That was also another epic experience. We, again, camped at the same public lands area that we did on our way up since it was close by and it was late. Also because there would be nowhere to camp in Texas without a reservation and I didn’t want to get a hotel.
Day 12: Home
This time we didn’t get rained out so we made some camp pancakes and coffee and made the last stretch home across Texas.
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