Quality shelf. Make sure you thread the wiper cable properly, where you can plug it in after the shelf is installed. I didn't, let it hang down with shelf over it and just put the (hard) top back on. Cable won't reach to plug back in for the wiper. Had the top off for a week, didn't think about it. Going to wait to take top off and reroute the cable. Ordered the cargo net today.
how does the amp itself connect into the factory head unit. AKA where are these rca plugs going into and how is this subwoofer actually receiving its audio signal.Like most people I wanted to upgrade the sound, and like most used the Kicker key 200.4. I put mine under the steering wheel and changed out all 6 speakers on my 2022 OBX SAS, non B&O system. I wanted some base and decided on the tailgate sub. KIcker/Stinger off-road makes everything very easy. Watched some Youtube videos and started to install. Almost paid to haver it done but wanted to try and do myself. Here is what I used and how I installed it.
Most of it is self explanatory, and the pics explain the rest. I linked the videos I used to install. I wanted the amp under the seat for easy access, and air flow. Sure, it could get wet. I don't normally make it a habit of driving in the rain though. Light rain even with doors off and it should be fine. Since July only one person has ever ridden in the back behind me, our 19yo when visiting him at college and went to dinner. I feel pretty confident it will be fine. Annoyingly the amp bracket does not have the correct holes for the 700w, so only used two screws to hold the amp to the bracket. The seat is very close, but does not touch it. All the scrape marks are from me trying to get the seat back on and the adjustment bars not being lined up. The only one with no instructions is the Kicker line in. It is all color-coordinated. Black goes to ground, which I ran thru the firewall and attached to the ground by the windshield, commonly used to ground most lights. The blue is the remote turn-on, which goes into the amp signaling the amp to turn on when power it on. Then 4 wires that go to speakers, 2 left and 2 right. The two RCA plugs to to the amp. Used velcro tape and put it under the dash on drivers side. Easy access and didn't know if it would get hot being behind a panel some where.
The huge red cable is power that runs from the battery, to to the line in fuse with the supplied mounting bracket, to the amp for power. The large black cable goes from the amp to a ground on the vehicle. Huge props for to Stinger, the supplied ground cable was not long enough. If you watch the link below on how to install the wiring kit, they mount the ground to the seatbelt bolt. On the 4 door this bold is not painted, nor is the metal behind it. If you look at my picture they are both painted, not good for grounding. The 2 door also has a longer door, so the B pillar is more to the rear. The supplied cable was literally about 2" too short. Emailed them and supplied pics from my vehicle and the install video that they have on Youtube and they agreed the cable was too short and mailed me out a cable to my desired length at no charge.
I followed the tailgate sub install video with is also linked below. Pretty easy, ran the wires behind the right panel, under the carpet of the rear seats and to the drivers seat. The sub came damaged from Amazon as can be seen in the pic. Then they were sold out, didn't feel like waiting so I went ahead with the install. I may changed it out later anyway. Didn't think it would affect the performance, and had everything I needed to install.
Couldn't find a good spot for the bass volume, ended up under the drivers seat. Nothing under the dash was good to screw it into, didn't want to drill a hole next to light switch that I have seen others do. Took a bit of time to get the bass volume where I wanted. Since it is tied into the left kick panel speaker the bass volume comes from it. So putting balance more to the rear lessons the bass volume, the supplied bass volume knob adjusts the bass, and so does the bass setting in Sync 4. So with all the different variables it took a bit to dial it in just right but I am happy where it is at.
Did the forscan settings that may or may not help the back. It is much better than stock with the kicker key and kicker 6.5's, still not as loud as the front. I thought about tying them into the kick panel speares too, but that would lose the fade. We have a 6yo who rides in a car seat on in the back passenger side, so I am a bit hesitant on them being too loud. Its almost good they are lower, but with top off and by myself or with the wife I would like to crank it up a bit more in the back. Its not terrible, with the fade a bit behind my head position in settings, they just arent as loud. Might try to get dealer to flash it for me, not a lot of confidence with them at the moment. Since the reason I have the Bronco is because they dropped my Mach-E GT off of a rack when working on it and totalling it. Then trying to charge me over $600 to install the Procal tune.
One big downside that I did not think of with the tailgate sub, is it does NOT work with the Ford security cage enclosure. The sub hits the top. Still trying to figure out how to make it work. Cant move the sub down, the indent of the tailgate wont allow it, and there is a gap in the metal where the bolt would need to be about 2" lower. Dont want to cut off part to the top to allow the sub to work, would degrade the stiffness of it, and have to more the screw hole back a lot on the right side. There is a metal rack that mounts on the bolts that holds the top on, may look into that. I want the cage in because when going to baseball games, gym, etc and then running around after my wife has her purse, kids have iPad, etc. I don't want to leave anything expensive insecure. So if you have a cage be mindful it wont work. I chased a phantom rattle for a bit. Turns out is was in on the right side of the sub under the other plastic panel. Where the handle is. There was a small gap in two spots, I have attached a pic with arrows. When the bass hit the white plastic moved back and forth hitting the black part. I Took some electrical tape, folded it over and wrapped it up between the gap. It's fixed for now, may look into a better solution down the road if it starts again.
Like many on here with questions I read from people who knew what they were doing, and watched a lot of Youtube videos. Posting this to perhaps help someone on the fence on doing it themselves or with some help. My first sound system install and pretty happy with it. I had a custom sub enclosure and amp installed on my '68 Mustang over a decade ago because I didn't feel confident doing it. I'd give it a shot now when upgrade time is due. I am by no means an expert but if anyone has questions feel free to ask.
Damn, Grammarly says I have about a 100 errors
It was very easy actually, I used this Kicker converter; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VKFSLKN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry for the late reply. I followed Kickers instructions, and wired it behind the drivers side seat on the pillar. However, the wire was the length for the 4 door, which was shorter. They had not anticipated the different length needed for the 2 door. After I explained it to them, they shipped me out a new cable right away. I show pictures of this installed in the first post.
Nice, glad you got it working. Having that sub, other audio equipment is my favorite upgrade so far. Even more than the tune. Enjoy!
