Switch or Solenoid for Winch

[LatitudeBronco]

I am trying to determine if I would be better off running a disconnect switch or a solenoid for my winch (Smittybilt X20 Gen 3). A switch would be cheaper, but my thinking is that a solenoid could be tied into one of the Aux switches.

As an alternative, is it possible to use a multi switch (ie. the Blue Sea 4 position selector switch) for both a winch disconnect and a disconnect for my dual battery setup? I already have a switch tied to my dual battery setup so that I can disconnect it when not needed. Could I replace that switch with a multi switch and use the same disconnect switch for both? I am not sure if that would work given the drastically different electrical draws and I have the switch fused on the battery side.

Anyone have any insights?

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[PWillette]

I presume you are referring to a relay (solenoid)? I went the relay route triggered by an Aux switch.

Looking at the Blue Sea 4 position selector...I don't see it working as you describe.

 

[Hemisfear]

This is what I used for my winch...

 

[Sloth]

I did the solenoid wired to one of my AUX switches. It makes it easier to shut the system down from inside the vehicle in an emergency situation, especially if the hood is down.

this is the one I went with…
https://stingersolutions.com/products/500-amp-relay-and-isolator

The switch is a simple option if you find one with a high enough rating.

 

[Brian_B]

As an alternative, is it possible to use a multi switch (ie. the Blue Sea 4 position selector switch) for both a winch disconnect and a disconnect for my dual battery setup?

I haven't seen it done, but after taking a quick look at the switch I don't see any show stoppers - looks like it should work pending the proper amp rating. If it will act as you were wanting would be the question.

For example: (Output) would wire to (+) on your battery via a fuse or breaker. (1) would go to your spare battery via a fuse or breaker and (2) would go to your winch via a fuse or breaker. In Off - nothing extra is hooked up, (1) would be just your spare battery, (2) would be just your winch running on the primary battery alone, and (1+2) would be winch running on both primary and spare batteries. Make sure you use large enough gage wire and fuse according to wire size, and that none of the fuses are bigger than the amp rating of the switch.

Note: which item goes on which terminal doesn't really matter, just adjusts what is where for each position of the switch - the switch will work more or less like above no matter what you wire where, just a matter of what the label may say.

There could be an issue switching to the spare battery if the voltage between the primary and spare were too far apart - say you drained your primary and shifted over to the spare. There's going to be a lot of current as the spare goes to run the Bronco ~and~ charge the primary battery at the same time. Something to be aware of, as you would have no automatic protection for this case.

@Sloth is correct in that a large enough relay/solenoid would work just fine as well and allow you to control it with an upfitter, as you were asking.

@PWillette - large rating relays are often called solenoids - like your starter solenoid, which is just a big relay. But you are right, they are pretty much the same thing in this context, just different nomenclature.

 

[LatitudeBronco]

@Sloth I think I saw your Youtube video! Really clean install. Have you had any movement issues on the solenoid since you installed it?

 

[Sloth]

@LatitudeBronco

I’m not skilled enough to produce YouTube videos of anything.

I have the winch solonoid mounted under the hood with the relay. It’s all mounted to the BAMF relocation bracket near the battery. I had to drill holes to match the stinger relay and bolt it in place with some “u-style” clip on nuts. It’s going nowhere without the rest of the vehicle.

 

[LatitudeBronco]

@Sloth That is funny. I thought it was you because there was a youtube video with the exact same solenoid and a red bronco, haha. I like the clip idea.

 

[Robs]

I am trying to determine if I would be better off running a disconnect switch or a solenoid for my winch (Smittybilt X20 Gen 3). A switch would be cheaper, but my thinking is that a solenoid could be tied into one of the Aux switches.

As an alternative, is it possible to use a multi switch (ie. the Blue Sea 4 position selector switch) for both a winch disconnect and a disconnect for my dual battery setup? I already have a switch tied to my dual battery setup so that I can disconnect it when not needed. Could I replace that switch with a multi switch and use the same disconnect switch for both? I am not sure if that would work given the drastically different electrical draws and I have the switch fused on the battery side.

Anyone have any insights?

I installed a 500 amp solenoid and mounted it just above the power dist unit drivers side. A 2 gauge battery cable for the power lead and the original winch power cable to the other lead. All ends double shrink wrapped And solenoid terminals are also insulated. The solenoid is powered by the 10 amp aux switch. Works perfectly and great protection against high amp short in the event of a front end collision

 

[da_jokker]

I got something like this, wired to Aux 3 (mounted to enter fender wall right where the aux switch wires are).

Stinger SGP35 500-AMP Relay and Isolator https://a.co/d/aNWufYC

Also got a quick connect plug and tapped into the same wiring for my winch to use for my compressor.... Then I can use my winch or my compressor without having to pop the hood, But otherwise all those power wires are dead during normal driving.

 

[Tricky Mike]

It's common not to use anything and to direct wire the winch. My Warn instructions didn't call for it.

That said I did use a big switch, 500 amp I think? I leave it off in day to day use.

 

[dgorsett]

Wing nut...I put a wing nut on the terminal and only hook up when needed.

 

[Freebird32]

I have the winch solonoid mounted under the hood with the relay. It’s all mounted to the BAMF relocation bracket near the battery.

I did nearly same thing with BAMF bracket, Warn controller, and Stinger relay, except I had to mount Warn box with connectors down and Stinger with connectors down due to hood clearance. I have hood insulation panel and the other way was too high. I drilled holes and used Rivnuts for Stinger.

 

[Sloth]

I did nearly same thing with BAMF bracket, Warn controller, and Stinger relay, except I had to mount Warn box with connectors down and Stinger with connectors down due to hood clearance. I have hood insulation panel and the other way was too high. I drilled holes and used Rivnuts for Stinger.

I had to do the similar without hood insulation. My solenoid is mounted normally, but I had to drill some lower holes for the same solenoid to keep it from hitting the hood.

 

[nolimits]

I think work is going to slow down in the next week so I can finally focus on getting my BAMF bumper, frame horn reinforcements, winch, intercooler, etc all installed.

I opted for the BAMF solenoid relocation bracket and wiring kit when I got the bumper. Thinking I will add the Stinger solenoid and run to Aux3 or similar (10 amp).

Excuse my ignorance but reading the instructions I see they show a fuse between the Stinger and battery. I don’t think anyone here installed one. Why? My thoughts are it’s off until switched on so less benefit than if on all the time. However, if running the winch with hood shut, wouldn’t it provide some additional protection? Or am I being paranoid and overthinking it? If one is needed, what size? Assuming 500 amp?

I saw @SierraBronco thread where he was lucky his rig didn’t burn down and I want to make sure I do this right so I hopefully avoid any similar issues.

I will also be installing wire loom similar to the MetalTech video. Granted that doesn’t do squat regarding the fuse question but it does help protect the wiring from hopefully needing that fuse.

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