Sydney, the Oxford White 2024 2dr Badlands 7MT

[JoHo]

RCI 20deg sliders got installed on Sunday. I put 3M grip tape on the top of the bar just like with my previous vehicle which turns them into a great step surface to get in and out without beating up the door sills. I think the grip tape is a must have additional especially in climates than snow.

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[gtabert]

This is a beautiful picture. Do you mind if I use it as a screen saver?

 

[JoHo]

This is a beautiful picture. Do you mind if I use it as a screen saver?

if it's just for yourself, have at it

 

[JoHo]

I've had the trailmonkeys short tail gate strut to prevent opening the tailgate and traction boards into the taillight but when it pushes the tailgate to the end and jerks to a stop it is really harsh and yanks on the bracket attached to the body. It is distressing seeing how much the bracket deforms and I don't like constantly reminding myself to guide it all the way open.

I got the stock one back out and played around with it and confirmed that it's got some fancy stuff in it so it slows down and stops pushing part way out to prevent hitting a hard stop and terrorizing the bracket on the other side. I considered getting the Mountains 2 Metal adjustable bracket to use the stock one but I kind of think they are overrated anyways. $200 with no shipping included to make something adjustable just to adjust once is overkill. Their tailgate reinforcement didn't fit that great and their light pod brackets wobble as I drive so I went looking for a different solution.

Underneath the tail gate there is a bolt head that is visible past where the ball for the strut is positioned so I started wrenching on stuff thinking Ford was nice enough to just put a secondary mounting hole on there for this purpose and I would be all set. that didn't work, its a self tapping screw into a plastic filler piece. I would just have to drill and install a rivnut wherever the original strut would need to be for where I wanted the tailgate to stop. The stock position for the ball has 2 rivets on either side of it indicating some level of reinforcement under the skin which I took note of. there is no access to reinforce behind the skin of the tailgate so I just riveted a small plate on the outside with the rivnut and 4 1/8 blind rivets. Now I have the original tailgate strut back on the car and my tailgate stops before my accessories hit the taillight.

 

[Happytown]

@JoHo great work! Question: I can't tell from the pics how far you moved the struts final mounting location from original location?

Also on the rear speaker delete, did you do anything to turn off output to those wires, like in Forscan?

 

[JoHo]

@JoHo great work! Question: I can't tell from the pics how far you moved the struts final mounting location from original location?

Also on the rear speaker delete, did you do anything to turn off output to those wires, like in Forscan?

I didn't measure anything for the strut location, just opened the tailgate to where I wanted it to stop and held the strut up to it to find the spot. The rear speakers where disabled using forscan first. I made sure they were really off, then drove it like that for a week to decide I really wouldn't miss having them, then removed them.

 

[JoHo]

I ordered the enlarged cargo floor box from DV8 to layout some electrical components to go with my auxiliary battery and was pleasantly surprised that it will hold the entire inverter with the charger. I originally thought the inverter would have to go in the fender with the subwoofer. This will make it easier to build up this system in fewer and simpler pieces. What's not pleasant is that the box arrived with one side bashed in so the holes don't line up and I'll have to get that sorted out with DV8.

 

[JoHo]

My cargo area box is mostly done getting wired up. Next will be getting the big side panel of trim out of the vehicle and running all the wires that will come in and out of this area. 2x 4awg lines from the main battery to the charger, 2x 2awg lines for the aux battery, 14x 20-14awg lines in and out for signals and accesories, and a 8 conductor ribbon to extend the front panel of the inverter out to an accessible area.

Additionally I opened up a brand new ARB twin compressor and modified the wiring in it to eliminate the second connector and associated rat's nest of wiring that they supply for it.

 

[JoHo]

I've been working on a hub to install next to the rear roll cage pillar that will house a GFCI socket, the interface module from the front panel of the inverter with its status display and on/off switch, and some light switches. After drawing and cutting several paper patterns, I had friend 3D print a partial mock up for final tweaks, then proceeded to get the bracket made and final housing printed and finished. I figured out the connectors for the interface module, then got some header kits and ribbon cable to make an extension for that. The new electrical box got installed in the Bronco and I tested the ribbon extension with a jumper pack powering the inverter since the cabinetry isn't done yet.

 

[JoHo]

Did a little more work up front recently.

I made up my mind one where to put the fuses and grounding for the compressor and auxiliary charger. I was hoping for a cleaner spot that wasn't on top of a service item but the main battery shouldn't need to be taken out often and at least its not drilled through the top of the stock fuse box. I made this with .060 304 stainless steel and riveted it to the top of the stock battery clamp with a little bit of space between the rivet-nuts and battery clamp.

 

[JoHo]

Custom License Plate Bracket, Version 2.0

 

[JoHo]

The Cab side of the auxiliary harness is finally complete and installed into the vehicle. I've been driving with the entire right side interior trim removed for weeks now so it was nice to finally get the huge panel out of the house and back in the car. the harness takes power from Aux6 to feed into future rear auxiliary lights and an input from the reverse light to switch it between a dust/rear-fog and back up light. It will also supply always-on power to the front of the cab for radios and accessory charging. In the back it supplies AC power to the socket by the tail gate DC power for some strip lights. There us also wiring run through the tailgate harness to power a strip light for the tailgate table and a waterproof plug attached to the 3rd brake light so I can run power up to the roof top tent at night. The outlet module was going to be difficult to wire directly to the screw terminal as originally envisioned so I attached connectors to all of it. It was still a struggle and ended up being so stuffed with wiring that it was difficult to get the shroud on but it all ended well. Also pictured is a wire harness for the ARB dual compressor before wrapping with tape.

 

[harpo]

I didn't measure anything for the strut location, just opened the tailgate to where I wanted it to stop and held the strut up to it to find the spot. The rear speakers where disabled using forscan first. I made sure they were really off, then drove it like that for a week to decide I really wouldn't miss having them, then removed them.

I removed my rear speakers last year from my oxford white 2 Dr 7mt badlands ; ). Didn't do anything with forscan and lost the beeping/parking warning for objects behind the bronco.

With the forscan speaker removal do you still get the audible warning from parking sensors in the back?

I don't miss the rear speakers - removed mine to fit my skis in easier (tails under passenger seat, tips where the rear drivers side speaker was).

 

[JoHo]

I removed my rear speakers last year from my oxford white 2 Dr 7mt badlands ; ). Didn't do anything with forscan and lost the beeping/parking warning for objects behind the bronco.

With the forscan speaker removal do you still get the audible warning from parking sensors in the back?

I don't miss the rear speakers - removed mine to fit my skis in easier (tails under passenger seat, tips where the rear drivers side speaker was).

Not much help here. I hate auto/dual-zone climate control in cars so went out of my way to order my Bronco with zero BS packages on it so I don't have the parking sensors to begin with. I would have welcomed the heated seats and steering wheel but it sure is easier to do mods without cameras and sensors all over the exterior.

 

[harpo]

Not much help here. I hate auto/dual-zone climate control in cars so went out of my way to order my Bronco with zero BS packages on it so I don't have the parking sensors to begin with. I would have welcomed the heated seats and steering wheel but it sure is easier to do mods without cameras and sensors all over the exterior.

I thought all badlands had the parking sensors. Mines a 22 and I did get the high package, I really wanted the big screen because my near vision sucks and thought the cameras would be nice when I'm out alone.

You're not missing much, the cameras are nice when the lenses are clean but I haven't really needed them. Plus most of the time the parking beeping just annoys me. the front alarm goes off every time I go in or out of my driveway. It was months before I realized the rear warning was gone but I noticed it was gone because I noticed I parked really close to something and wondered why I didn't hear the warning...

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