FilmcoBronci

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First thank you. Again.
I have read this super post wall to wall. It is the one I always refer folks to with lift questions.
I now have a question of my own and have not seen any references.
I don’t rock crawl and wheels are never in the air, but I do spend significant time in slop, snow, mud, sand and rutted roads for work. Running 285/70/17 on OEMs so not that far from stock but with the extra width would love your opinion if I should consider upgraded control arms or springs?
Some of the slop gets kind of tug o war and spring mud season has been psychotic shifting between blizzard, to heat wave, and back again.
Thx again for this outstanding encyclopedia.


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North7

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First thank you. Again.
I have read this super post wall to wall. It is the one I always refer folks to with lift questions.
I now have a question of my own and have not seen any references.
I don’t rock crawl and wheels are never in the air, but I do spend significant time in slop, snow, mud, sand and rutted roads for work. Running 285/70/17 on OEMs so not that far from stock but with the extra width would love your opinion if I should consider upgraded control arms or springs?
Some of the slop gets kind of tug o war and spring mud season has been psychotic shifting fro blizzard to heat wave and back again.
Thx again for this outstanding encyclopedia.
On a Black Diamond with Bandlands size wheels and tires you have only lost 0.67" of clearance at full compression. For your needs that is no big deal, just don't trying flying over speed bumps.

Upgraded control arms are only needed when you are lifting in excess of 2". Upgraded Coilovers are only needed if you want to improve your ride quality. None of that matters as far as driving in slop, snow, mud, sand and rutted roads.

On the other hand, if you find yourself bottoming out on rutted roads you may want to upgrade to a set of the stock Badlands Bilstein's with the correct springs for your model (either stock Badlands type or Badlands Sasquatch type).

I'll let one of the experts chime in with experience on all types of off-road vehicles and situations, @BAUS67 what are your thoughts please?
 

FilmcoBronci

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Thanks for your time. That is extremely useful. To clarify, I'm running the 285's on the BD Upgraded wheels son the wheel weight is even lighter.

Also: True story: There are two new MASSIVE speed bumps around the corner from the house. Saw a Porsche Cayman almost get beached. They look delicious. Your advice was coincidentally and fiscally timely.

With your help, Bronco6g.com saves lives.
 
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KANE COUNTY ILLINOIS

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I’m not entirely sure how to read the chart but… maybe someone here who can read it can help me?

will 285/70/17R fit a non Sas Big Bend without a lift or level?

what’s the largest size tire that can fit non Sas Big Bend without a lift or level?

Thank you.
Hey, I too have a Big Bend and would like to add larger tires in the future without doing any modifications (mall crawler)! Have you added larger tires?
 

FilmcoBronci

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Hey, I too have a Big Bend and would like to add larger tires in the future without doing any modifications (mall crawler)! Have you added larger tires?
Just had this conversation in a couple of thread before this one. Answer is yes. See the answer below
FilmcoBronci said:
First thank you. Again.
I have read this super post wall to wall. It is the one I always refer folks to with lift questions.
I now have a question of my own and have not seen any references.
I don’t rock crawl and wheels are never in the air, but I do spend significant time in slop, snow, mud, sand and rutted roads for work. Running 285/70/17 on OEMs so not that far from stock but with the extra width would love your opinion if I should consider upgraded control arms or springs?
Some of the slop gets kind of tug o war and spring mud season has been psychotic shifting fro blizzard to heat wave and back again.
Thx again for this outstanding encyclopedia.
Answer Provided by @North7
"On a Black Diamond with Bandlands size wheels and tires you have only lost 0.67" of clearance at full compression. For your needs that is no big deal, just don't trying flying over speed bumps.

Upgraded control arms are only needed when you are lifting in excess of 2". Upgraded Coilovers are only needed if you want to improve your ride quality. None of that matters as far as driving in slop, snow, mud, sand and rutted roads.

On the other hand, if you find yourself bottoming out on rutted roads you may want to upgrade to a set of the stock Badlands Bilstein's with the correct springs for your model (either stock Badlands type or Badlands Sasquatch type).

I'll let one of the experts chime in with experience on all types of off-road vehicles and situations, @BAUS67 what are your thoughts please?"
 

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BAUS67

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First thank you. Again.
I have read this super post wall to wall. It is the one I always refer folks to with lift questions.
I now have a question of my own and have not seen any references.
I don’t rock crawl and wheels are never in the air, but I do spend significant time in slop, snow, mud, sand and rutted roads for work. Running 285/70/17 on OEMs so not that far from stock but with the extra width would love your opinion if I should consider upgraded control arms or springs?
Some of the slop gets kind of tug o war and spring mud season has been psychotic shifting between blizzard, to heat wave, and back again.
Thx again for this outstanding encyclopedia.
On a Black Diamond with Bandlands size wheels and tires you have only lost 0.67" of clearance at full compression. For your needs that is no big deal, just don't trying flying over speed bumps.

Upgraded control arms are only needed when you are lifting in excess of 2". Upgraded Coilovers are only needed if you want to improve your ride quality. None of that matters as far as driving in slop, snow, mud, sand and rutted roads.

On the other hand, if you find yourself bottoming out on rutted roads you may want to upgrade to a set of the stock Badlands Bilstein's with the correct springs for your model (either stock Badlands type or Badlands Sasquatch type).

I'll let one of the experts chime in with experience on all types of off-road vehicles and situations, @BAUS67 what are your thoughts please?


33 11.50's should fit fine. Crash bars might need to go. I would not see a need for control arms just some diggers.


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I would suggest mud tires not all terrains for the described conditions. Traction is everything in soft terrain.





😁
 

FilmcoBronci

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33 11.50's should fit fine. Crash bars might need to go. I would not see a need for control arms just some diggers.


1650662538076.png



I would suggest mud tires not all terrains for the described conditions. Traction is everything in soft terrain.





😁
Brilliant and much appreciated!
 

mpeugeot

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First thank you. Again.
I have read this super post wall to wall. It is the one I always refer folks to with lift questions.
I now have a question of my own and have not seen any references.
I don’t rock crawl and wheels are never in the air, but I do spend significant time in slop, snow, mud, sand and rutted roads for work. Running 285/70/17 on OEMs so not that far from stock but with the extra width would love your opinion if I should consider upgraded control arms or springs?
Some of the slop gets kind of tug o war and spring mud season has been psychotic shifting between blizzard, to heat wave, and back again.
Thx again for this outstanding encyclopedia.
You don't need any upgrades to run 33.5" (295/70R17) Milestar Patagonia M/T's on a 17x9 +30 offset RTR Tech 6 rims. My tires never rubbed with the stock suspension in my OBX and I never needed to remove the crash bars (and I took it off road - fully articulated it - sway bar was NOT disconnected though). So if you leave it 100% stock, you won't have a problem with that formula.

Change the rim/tire/offset from above or disconnect the sway bar and your mileage may vary.
 

FilmcoBronci

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You don't need any upgrades to run 33.5" (295/70R17) Milestar Patagonia M/T's on a 17x9 +30 offset RTR Tech 6 rims. My tires never rubbed with the stock suspension in my OBX and I never needed to remove the crash bars (and I took it off road - fully articulated it - sway bar was NOT disconnected though). So if you leave it 100% stock, you won't have a problem with that formula.

Change the rim/tire/offset from above or disconnect the sway bar and your mileage may vary.
Thanks much!
 

jh3113

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Anyone install just the Sas shocks and have a picture of their Bronco on the factory wheels/tires? Wondering if it will look stupid on the stock Black Diamond wheels/tires. I'm thinking it'll look okay since it's only 1.1". Found some take-offs and am thinking about getting them installed and riding the stock wheels/tires until I need to replace the tires for the first time.
 

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We can finally answer the ongoing Bronco question, "how much lift" does each trim level have compared to the others?

Now that we have the Ford General Specifications document, Bilstein Coilover Information and Ford Part Number information we can finally get a clear and complete picture on what the stock Bronco lift dimensions are and what is possible to lift each trim level. In this discussion the goal is always to maintain maximum functionality of your Bronco for off-road use. If you want to do something for looks only, you may be able to bend the rules a little and do a budget lift, but you want to be cautious of tire rub, binding, CV joints and steering component damage or other unintended consequences.

Vaughn Gittin Jr. or Loren Healey (both Bronco racers) said something to the effect, to put 37" tires on the Sasquatch you need to go up 2 inches and out 2 inches. Going out 2 inches most likely will require new control arms. On the other hand, Ryan of 4WP, only recommended new control arms when doing a lift 3 inches or higher. Further, he prefers a +35 wheel offset to maintain the ideal scrub radius to minimize wear on components. While this thread cannot possibly address every variable, these are general guidelines that each manufacture will handle differently, depending on the lift kits they offer.

Each of the below tables can be read separately to understand the information or points made within that table. Some data is repeated in other tables to provide clarity or present the information in a different way to make it understandable to the most number of people. This thread is intended to help newbies and experienced alike, with those more knowledgeable forum members helping others learn the ropes of suspension modifications and lift. Please post any corrections or clarifications you feel are needed.

Thank you to @ZackDanger, @Razorbak86 for their knowledge shared and for some of our unnamed friends of the forum.

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Update 12/28/2021: Thank you to @Jason hamilton for posting what appears to be the first vendor Bronco suspension info page along with available coilovers. Much of the information appears to be similar, if not identical, to my information above, perhaps another case of Bronco6g being use for source material. :unsure:
2021+ Ford Bronco Suspension & Shock Guide

Sasquatch vs Badlands Articulation (Update 1/2/2022)
While the Bilstein coilover's are 0.43" taller on the Sasquatch vs the Badlands, they also have a 0.4" Bump stop vs the Badlands, limiting articulation, so the larger 35" tires don't top out on the fender well. Therefore, Sasquatch with 35" tires has Less articulation, not more.
The yellow arrow points to the Sasquatch Bump Stop.
Ford Bronco Suspension Deep Dive | 35-inch reasons to avoid Sasquatch
3_fr_uarm_arrow.jpg

Maybe I missed this in previous threads. Are the springs on the Bilstein shocks the same as the ones on the Hitachi shocks. Would I be able to buy Bilstein shocks and put my current springs on the Bilstein? I went to Ford and they could not tell me unless I had a VIN number for a Badlands to compare to my Base.
 
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North7

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Maybe I missed this in previous threads. Are the springs on the Bilstein shocks the same as the ones on the Hitachi shocks. Would I be able to buy Bilstein shocks and put my current springs on the Bilstein? I went to Ford and they could not tell me unless I had a VIN number for a Badlands to compare to my Base.
No, they are all different.


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Hey, I too have a Big Bend and would like to add larger tires in the future without doing any modifications (mall crawler)! Have you added larger tires?
If this helps - I added 17x8.5 0 offset wheels and 315/70/17 to our stock BB the first day. Remove crash bars. No rubbing, no scrubbing - even under hard flex. IF you are doing some serious off-roading and stuffing the wheel well - YMMV. Our Bronco will see mud and some trails, but it's mainly a daily driver.

IMG_4056.jpeg
 

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If this helps - I added 17x8.5 0 offset wheels and 315/70/17 to our stock BB the first day. Remove crash bars. No rubbing, no scrubbing - even under hard flex. IF you are doing some serious off-roading and stuffing the wheel well - YMMV. Our Bronco will see mud and some trails, but it's mainly a daily driver.

IMG_4056.jpeg
I love the look of the larger tires!! My Bronco is for pavement/show only!! But it's nice to know that it can do some much more! Thanks!
 

mpeugeot

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I love the look of the larger tires!! My Bronco is for pavement/show only!! But it's nice to know that it can do some much more! Thanks!
Here is a stock OBX with 295/70R17's - 17x9 rim with +30 offset. No rubbing, still have the crash bars in when I put them on.

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