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North7

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Thank you USER3847, ZackDanger,USER6973and Razorbak86 for your input and North7 for posting this information, certainly very informative to say the least. The good news that I take from this information, is that if I wish to put 35" tires on my Badlands, I just need to add a front spacer of 1". To go to 37", which I probably won't do, but I am considering, will require a 2.5" lift kit front and rear. Now the fun part begins, I need to start deciding...
Take a look at @ZackDanger's post, he explains the challenge with your solution.
I learned a ton about IFS and Ryan from 4WP, in both his video(s) and his conversations here, really opened my eyes to some things.

I come from the jeep side where a "budget lift" is a regular and appropriate things.... with a budget lift you basically just put some spacers on top of the suspension to give you some quick increased clearance for larger tires.

The problem is that with an IFS, when you add lift in that way, without taking other things into account, you reach the limits of the front axles and CV joint angles.

The weird thing is that you can "safely" budget lift the lower trims but not the upper trims...

1623679399246.png


Ryan was able to shed some light on something that didn't make intuitive sense to me at first but it an important point:

On the Base-OB the shocks themselves don't have a very large range of motion. On the yellow bilsteins (BL and Sas), the travel is so much greater and you're already lifted, that they basically already allow for near maximum droop as far as the CVs are concerned.

What that means is that counterintuitively, it's easier to "cheaply" lift a lower trim Bronco than an upper trim....

The lower trim shocks don't allow the wheels to drop enough to create a problem if you add some spacers to raise the vehicle, so you can get a base up to squatch height pretty easy with a budget boost. On the upper trims if you add more lift with spacers the wheels can drop so far that you bind the axles and can create serious problems.

Ryan's point was that if you want to eventually get to a 3" lift for 37s... even if it's only a small increase over your BL or Sas height, you're already at the end of the CV capability. Starting with Sas doesn't mean you get to save money by just adding cheap spacers for the 37" clearance, you have to swap out coilovers and UCA anyway... So, if your plan is 37s, it may make more sense to *not* sas from the factory since you're going to have to replace those components anyway.

Granted, the Bilsteins, with their longer range of travel mean better articulation off road, but if your goal is to just lift your Bronco fast and cheap, it could potentially make more sense to go with a lower trim and add spacers.

(Of course, if you want to lift your BL or Sas, and aren't worried about damage that may occur if you were to hang one of your front wheels in the air... a spacer may be worth it to you... or if you're worried about damage but don't mind limiting droop, you could put limiter straps in or something... I'm sure we'll see plenty of different solutions once Broncos become more prolific.)

The more I think about this more clear (I think) things become to me.

Basically, here's the breakdown as I see it:

- If all you want is lift to clear 35" on the street, it's almost certainly cheaper to get a Base-OB and add a budget boost.
- If you want maximum off-road capability for 33-35" it's probably cheaper to Sas.
- If you want maximum off-road capability for 37" it's cheaper to go base and upgrade coilovers and UCA.


And here's the link to the video where Ryan very quickly talks about how a "level lift" (budget boost / spacer) wont work because of CV angles on the "Yellow Bilstein" (BL, SAS) equipped Broncos:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-37”-tires-on-2021-bronco-4wp-explains.16623/
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You don't "need it" if you don't care about full off-road capability, you will loose some ground clearance, that you may or may not need or care about depending where you plan to drive your Bronco. The tires will fit but you will have to watch out for rubbing.
I wonder how much of that rubbing can be cleaned up with some minor trimming.

With BB I'm not looking to do hardcore off-roading (obviously). I'm perfectly situated between the Ozark and Ouachita National Forest in Arkansas. Plan on exploring a lot of Forest Service roads.
 
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ZackDanger

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Thank you USER3847, ZackDanger,USER6973and Razorbak86 for your input and North7 for posting this information, certainly very informative to say the least. The good news that I take from this information, is that if I wish to put 35" tires on my Badlands, I just need to add a front spacer of 1". To go to 37", which I probably won't do, but I am considering, will require a 2.5" lift kit front and rear. Now the fun part begins, I need to start deciding...
From what I've been able to piece together, I suspect a small spacer to bring the BL up to the Sas height (.4 inches) would probably be okay... if you just want to mimic the same height as sas... but you may also need an additional bump stop to prevent rubbing on full compression. (It's said/understood that Sas has both increased height but also decreased articulation compared to BL).
 

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We can finally answer the ongoing Bronco question, "how much lift" does each trim level have compared to the others?

Now that we have the Ford General Specifications document, Bilstein Coilover Information and Ford Part Number information we can finally get a clear and complete picture on what the stock Bronco lift dimensions are and what is possible to lift each trim level. In this discussion the goal is always to maintain maximum functionality of your Bronco for off-road use. If you want to do something for looks only, you may be able to bend the rules a little and do a budget lift, but you want to be cautious of tire rub, binding, CV joints and steering component damage or other unintended consequences.

Vaughn Gittin Jr. said something to the effect in his Hells Revenge interview video, to put 37" tires on the Sasquatch you need to go up 2 inches and out 2 inches. Going out 2 inches most likely will require new control arms. On the other hand, Ryan of 4WP, only recommended new control arms when doing a lift 3 inches or higher. Further, he prefers a +35 wheel offset to maintain the ideal scrub radius to minimize wear on components. While this thread cannot possibly address every variable, these are general guidelines that each manufacture will handle differently, depending on the lift kits they offer.

Each of the below tables can be read separately to understand the information or points made within that table. Some data is repeated in other tables to provide clarity or present the information in a different way to make it understandable to the most number of people. This thread is intended to help newbies and experienced alike, with those more knowledgeable forum members helping others learn the ropes of suspension modifications and lift. Please post any corrections or clarifications you feel are needed.

Thank you to @ZackDanger, @Razorbak86 for their knowledge shared and for some of our unnamed friends of the forum.

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View attachment 130112

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View attachment 130111
Does thus mean that the spring is heavier duty on my OBX 2.7, than on an OBX with the 2.3 motor? The part numbers are the same, but the asterisk refers to the foot notes.
 

e90steve

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Coming from sports car world, I don't understand how the Sasquatch can safely run a 315 tire on an 8.5" wide wheel? That is a crazy wide tire for that rim. With my experience on cars/not SUV's, no one would dream of putting a 315 tire on a 8.5 wheel. I currently run a 315 on an 11" wheel on my 911. Are the off roading tires built for a smaller rim width?
 
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North7

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Does thus mean that the spring is heavier duty on my OBX 2.7, than on an OBX with the 2.3 motor? The part numbers are the same, but the asterisk refers to the foot notes.
The spring part numbers are all different, depending on if you have a 2.3, 2.7, MT, AT, hartop, softtop, etc. The asterisk reference to the foot notes shows you will use one of the "dash" numbers on the front and one on the rear.
Front: 11 different spring p/n, same 11 for all three suspension types:
MB3Z-5310-A,B,C,D,E,F,J,K,L,M,N
Rear: 6 different spring p/n, same 6 for all three suspension types:
MB3Z-5560-A,B,C,D,E,F
 

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Coming from sports car world, I don't understand how the Sasquatch can safely run a 315 tire on an 8.5" wide wheel? That is a crazy wide tire for that rim. With my experience on cars/not SUV's, no one would dream of putting a 315 tire on a 8.5 wheel. I currently run a 315 on an 11" wheel on my 911. Are the off roading tires built for a smaller rim width?
Apples and grapefruit.
 
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North7

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Coming from sports car world, I don't understand how the Sasquatch can safely run a 315 tire on an 8.5" wide wheel? That is a crazy wide tire for that rim. With my experience on cars/not SUV's, no one would dream of putting a 315 tire on a 8.5 wheel. I currently run a 315 on an 11" wheel on my 911. Are the off roading tires built for a smaller rim width?
This is standard for off-road, as an example, the 315/70R17 KO2 is designed to fit 8" to 11" wheels.

https://tiresize.com/tires/BFGoodrich/All-Terrain-TA-KO2-315-70R17.htm
Ford Bronco The Definitive Guide to 2021+ Bronco Ride & Lift Heights with Wheel & Tire Sizes 1623704322814
 

Rover72

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Thanks North 7 and others for digging up this suspension specs and clarifying the fine points!!

The various suspension differences has been a big question mark. Looking at all the different shock and spring part numbers shows that it isn't as simple as 3 different suspension packages - Base, Badlands and SAS as I thought.
 
 


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