The insanity of the manual trans Sasquatch pricing

[RagnarKon]

Just curious since I've never used beadlocks before, wouldn't 4 be sufficient? is there a reason to put one on the spare?

Typically if you are going into places that need beadlocks, you'll also want a beadlock on your spare.

Going to be a huge bummer if you need to switch to a spare tire only to pop a bead on your spare on the way home. But... ya know... ultimately depends on your risk tolerance.

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[Gcardieri]

I’m sure glad that I ordered the manual non-Sasquatched Badlands when I had the chance, and lucky to have received an estimated build date in November.

 

[Rahkmalla]

It's a sucker tax for folks that don't realize that they can change wheels/tires/lift aftermarket. But presumably the 'Mansquatch' option is aimed at enthusiasts who surely know this already.

Aftermarket spacer lifts are cheap, maybe $200 bucks, another 500 to install. 35" wheels and tires will easily run 3k. Mounted, balanced, and tpmsd should run a couple hundred. electronic locking front and rears will cost you 1k each. Probably another 1k to get both installed if you know a good mechanic.

That's 7k already without the better suspension setup. 5400 if you can do most of it yourself (safe to assume the number of people who can balance their own wheels is slim to none).

So IF you do the work yourself (not easy work without a lift) you still have base suspension, save only 1k over sasquatch, and effectively throw away your entire powertrain warranty.

Sucker tax? BS. Anyone planning 35s for anything other than street use will get it cheaper with squatch. And anyone planning 37s will be better off with it too as you can hockey puck the SAS suspension to fit 37s and not go full stage 2 lift. 40s, well you gotta gut the entire suspension and new diffs anyway, so best off without squatch.

 

[SpeedTwin]

I’m sure glad that I ordered the manual non-Sasquatched Badlands when I had the chance, and lucky to have received an estimated build date in November.

Me too !

 

[Dvanderm]

Same when you add the Mid to the 2022 Big Bend pricing. I can't find anything that shows they the cost increase is more than double what the Mid cost is.

 

[UtahLars]

Well with everyone saying that the manual is so much better than the auto and it is more fun to drive shouldn't it be more expensive and people willing to pay for it?

I think it's actually kind of the opposite generally for manuals (not specific to Bronco). The rate of uptake for manuals is miniscule. So the cost to make them, stock parts for them and warranty them has to be amortized over a small population of cars. But you are right, people who want manuals want manuals, and thus like all "specialty buyers" (ex: fancy sports cars, custom paint colors) exhibit less price elasticity (that is, you can charge them more and many of them will still buy).

FYI, I would be happy to have nothing but manuals but if its a car that there's any possibility of my wife wanting to drive, I'm SOL. I've offered many times to teach her to drive a manual but she has no interest whatsoever. If anyone has solved this riddle I'm all ears!

 

[The_Phew]

Aftermarket spacer lifts are cheap, maybe $200 bucks, another 500 to install. 35" wheels and tires will easily run 3k. Mounted, balanced, and tpmsd should run a couple hundred. electronic locking front and rears will cost you 1k each. Probably another 1k to get both installed if you know a good mechanic.

That's 7k already without the better suspension setup. 5400 if you can do most of it yourself (safe to assume the number of people who can balance their own wheels is slim to none).

I was specifically talking about the $4k upcharge on the Badlands, which is JUST the wheels/tires+minor lift. Yeah, wheels/tires cost money, but one can also sell their OEM wheels/tires for upwards of $2k (at least for a Badlands). If one just wanted 35s on their Badlands (the OEM Badlands wheels are the best wheels anyway, IMHO), the net cost difference after selling their OEM tires would be under $1k.

Mansquatch on lower trims can make sense, since it gets you drivetrain components that are otherwise inaccessible.

 

[Rahkmalla]

I was specifically talking about the $4k upcharge on the Badlands, which is JUST the wheels/tires+minor lift. Yeah, wheels/tires cost money, but one can also sell their OEM wheels/tires for upwards of $2k (at least for a Badlands). If one just wanted 35s on their Badlands (the OEM Badlands wheels are the best wheels anyway, IMHO), the net cost difference after selling their OEM tires would be under $1k.

Mansquatch on lower trims can make sense, since it gets you drivetrain components that are otherwise inaccessible.

I think sasquatch is fine on any trans Base, auto BB, and OBX, but a poor decision on BD and manual BL.

Base sasquatch is a value bargain, even with the BS "free automatic" pricing. BBsquatch is worth the price if you want the tranny you have to pay for, but with a stick you're better off nonsquatch BL. BD squatch you're just better of BL nonsquatch no matter the trans. OBXsquatch is still the same price as last year. BLsquatch is just a micro lift and tire package which is fine when 2500 but bs for 4k. And obviously no choice on WT.

 

[LHD]

With regards to the basemanSquatch you also get the upgraded transfer case over a nonsquatch So there may be additional costs. I may just try to order one through my dealer and drive my incoming Manbase until then. If I’d had known I would be stuck on dirt mountain for 3 months, I’d have 99d my order.

 

[Krieger]

I've decided despite getting screwed over I'm eating the cost of the extra 4k for the badmansquatch- a couple of reasons for me-

1. Warranty concerns with doing my own lift. Nobody knows how Ford will handle warranty claims and it will likely end varying wildly between dealers and reason for claim. This crap show has shown me that Ford will find any reason they can to stick it to the consumer.
2. Don't feel like investing the time second-guessing the best lifts vs best tire/wheel combos
3. Know I would never get it done anyway because I would go back and fourth on the best combo for months, and then back and fourth on the best deal from the best shop, and then also my unwillingness to pay for shipping and drop my car off to have it all done.
4. Added cost of buying my own wheels/tires/lift is not free and offsets the differences in cost.
5. I think despite it being arbitrary, Sasquatch anything will have higher re-sale/trade-in value anyway which will further offset the extra cost.
6. I was an early reservation with a small discount from the dealership that also helps offset the BS upcharge.
7. I waited this long for it I might as well stick to it *eyeroll*

TL,DR: I'm lazy and the potential voided warranty for $1500 or so saved after buying my own tires/wheels/lift and time spent researching/paying to have it all installed negates the savings.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Late to the party. Wow that pricing is dumb. Zero regrets about not holding out for mansquatch now and jumping on the BL now. I would happily pay the extra not to have the auto, but it shouldn't be that way if priced fairly.

 

[Moya7]

As a base 2.7 Sasquatch 2 door, the Sasquatch and auto trans combo is the only way to get the A4 AWD feature which is a must.

BaseSquatch
2.7
2 door
Modular bumper
Aux switches
41k from my dealer

I have the exact same build as you - down to the penny, only mine is in the new green color. I'm still questioning my choices, how did you come to your final decision? I already took delivery of a 4 door BD with mid, but had to sell him on to keep the peace at home. Hence I'll be waiting for a late 22 or early 23 instead. Look forward to your response. Thanks!

 

[HeritageRider]

Badlands non SAS manual has 4.70 gears, front and rear diff lock, sway bar disconnect, and better front axle. SAS does seem pointless with Badlands. 35s arent going to get you that many more places than

If I ordered a BL, I'd never get Sasquatch. When the 33's wore out, I don't see any reason you couldn't put 35's on the stock BL wheels. (which I like better than the Sasquatch wheels). I don't know if the ½" difference in suspension would make that much difference, and if it
does, you can get a 1" leveling kit for $60.

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