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DaBroncstah

DaBroncstah

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Well what I thought would never happened happened.

I just got my babe back from getting the recalls done on it and literally not even an hour after having it back I was turning around in my driveway and the tie rod snapped :). I’m completely stock with 33s!

I thought tie rods were only snapping on off roading conditions but I guess not! This sucks

FD7E7E17-FE95-4FA0-843C-05B2A2256472.jpeg

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More info/answer:




as I said earlier I’m being completely truthful. No curb smacking has happened unless someone stole it in the dead of night and took it for a joy ride. The dealership idea might be correct though, they did do an inspection so maybe they lifted it up and something happened? I’m not sure but I am sure that I’m telling the truth.

I get where you’re coming from though with being suspicious (people always tell major stories and leave out key details) but I promise I’m telling you everything that I’ve done!!
well at least I got some playing cards… Who else has gotten these so far?

Ford Bronco Tie rod just snapped while turning around in driveway [Update: Replaced Under Warranty] 0547241B-FA84-4138-B58A-7072F149CBD8
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kpark_67

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The stock tie rods (and steering box) are major weak points on the Bronco. Actually I don't know why Ford hasn't already reengineered those on '22 and '23 models. They did for the BRaptor. It sounds like yours were weaker than normal. Something could have happened in MFG, transit or at the dealer and no one would have known until it broke.

The first upgrade I did, because I off road, was install the Fab Tech tie rods and put the BroncBuster bushing in the steering rack. Those tie rods are MUCH stronger than stock. I have already taken them off roading in Ouray and no problems.
 

andrusoid

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The broken rod toward the engine looks like it had downward pressure and is bent.... had to be in a bind at one point
Agreed, it is seriously bent. I have 12,000 miles on my Base and never seen anything like this. I'm not a rock crawler, but there are plenty trails in Bend that exercise the suspension well beyond driveway action.
 

BottleShark

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JohnnyBronco

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Actually they are built with a small bend in them for tire/wheel clearance. This does put a weak potentially bendable area right near the middle or weakest area. Also if there is any bind under extension the tie rod will always bend away from the load or angle it's put in with a load. Because they are angled downward they bend upward ( in the center) ... common sense .
I doubt that these have any predetermined bend. Threaded at both ends. The flat section is where one would apply a spanner (wrench) to adjust toe-in. Inside the rubber boot the ball end is threaded into the end of the rack but the ball allows 360 degree rotation of the rod.

And please look again at photos, the OP's rod bent horizontally even it looks vertical in the picture. The marks on the boot clearly indicate it has rotated. And his rod snapped not in the middle but in the threads at the nut. Certainly not an engineered breakpoint
 

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BigMeatsBronco

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I doubt that these have any predetermined bend. Threaded at both ends. The flat section is where one would apply a spanner (wrench) to adjust toe-in. Inside the rubber boot the ball end is threaded into the end of the rack but the ball allows 360 degree rotation of the rod.

And please look again at photos, the OP's rod bent horizontally even it looks vertical in the picture. The marks on the boot clearly indicate it has rotated. And his rod snapped not in the middle but in the threads at the nut. Certainly not an engineered breakpoint
I'm referring to the complete tie rod assembly from end to end....it is NOT straight. Have a look for yourself. The area that is recessed for tire clearance is what I'm referring to.
And if not build and designed exactly correct, then any pressure will cause deflection. Do you really think that the center of the tie rod adjustment is also the center of the radius in the tie rod end? Combined with bind created at the tie rod end and the angle of the tie rod when forces are applied, and you can start to see where the problem lies. Additionally, this design is super retarded because the further the tire drops down, the MORE angle the tie rod has, and the more pressure or force applied from the racks ends, the more the tie rod actually pushes the suspension downwards causing even more angle. With enough wheel travel, the tie rod angle will eventually be beyond 45° at which point MORE ( over half the force) of the steering force will become suspension force. Instead of the other way around. Besides beefier parts like the Hoss3.0 steering, fixing the design flaw, because the tie rods are at too steep of an angle at normal ride height, is the ultimate solution. Of course this is just my opinion from observation and testing other parts and knuckles with different tie rod angles and tie rod attachment points
 

Tricky Dick

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I'm referring to the complete tie rod assembly from end to end....it is NOT straight. Have a look for yourself. The area that is recessed for tire clearance is what I'm referring to.
I fully believe that bend in the outer TRE is not doing us any favors. I had really hoped to find a straight one that worked with the F150 inners and that combo would have added tons of strength.
 

Tilzbow

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Does anyone know the tools required to swap stock tie rods? I’ve got a spare in the Bronco but I’ve never done a tie rod change on a vehicle. Even though I e crawled under the rig and I think I’ve got it covered, I just want to make sure I’m not missing something so I’m not stuck on a remote trail missing a tool I didn’t know I needed.
 

Iceburg604

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This is terrifying, I was in a remote high elevation alpine trail over the last few days, solo (I know, dangerous on it's own, I did get stuck for 2 hours but managed to get out, a real oh sh*t moment) I cant imagine a tie rod snapping, I would have been f*cked.
 

Tricky Dick

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Does anyone know the tools required to swap stock tie rods? I’ve got a spare in the Bronco but I’ve never done a tie rod change on a vehicle. Even though I e crawled under the rig and I think I’ve got it covered, I just want to make sure I’m not missing something so I’m not stuck on a remote trail missing a tool I didn’t know I needed.
At very minimum 2 crescent wrenches (a 12" and 8" should do it) and a flat tip screwdriver for the boot clamp.
 

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B Spence

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Who is making Aftermarket strong tie rod ends for these Broncos?
 

Firefight911

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Genuinely surprised this is not a Safety Recall yet.
If people don't report it to NHTSA....

Don't expect Ford to jump on it.
 

JohnnyBronco

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I will have to post
I'm referring to the complete tie rod assembly from end to end....it is NOT straight. Have a look for yourself. The area that is recessed for tire clearance is what I'm referring to.
And if not build and designed exactly correct, then any pressure will cause deflection. Do you really think that the center of the tie rod adjustment is also the center of the radius in the tie rod end? Combined with bind created at the tie rod end and the angle of the tie rod when forces are applied, and you can start to see where the problem lies. Additionally, this design is super retarded because the further the tire drops down, the MORE angle the tie rod has, and the more pressure or force applied from the racks ends, the more the tie rod actually pushes the suspension downwards causing even more angle. With enough wheel travel, the tie rod angle will eventually be beyond 45° at which point MORE ( over half the force) of the steering force will become suspension force. Instead of the other way around. Besides beefier parts like the Hoss3.0 steering, fixing the design flaw, because the tie rods are at too steep of an angle at normal ride height, is the ultimate solution. Of course this is just my opinion from observation and testing other parts and knuckles with different tie rod angles and tie rod attachment points
You are correct, the outer piece itself is not straight, even looks like aluminum, at best HOWEVER that is not what broke for the OP. What broke on his Bronco is the inner "half" of the tie rod assembly, which is a straight line from thread to thread or more accurately from ball joint to thread. This is the section that bent backwards as it snapped in the threads and it was a straight piece beforehand. It would be impossible to adjust the front suspension lignment if this INNER piece were not straight.

But a couple questions have been bugging me since last night, since the only way for this to bend and snap would likely have been under extreme compression, the tire not moving and the rack shoving against it OR from the turnbuckle part of tierod coming into extreme contact with the strut...(presuming no prior damage caused by the dealer)
1. is there no pressure relief valve in the rack hydraulics?
2. Or is there no steering stop, and wheel/tire was moved by the crabgrass farther than the rack extends? If this is the case, why are there no steering stops? MOst vehicles have a limit on how far a steered wheel can rotate which is usually less than the total movement available from the powered components
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