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dgorsett

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If you go to Curt or Draw-Tite’s websites, neither show a product available so I guess Curt doesn’t have their own website current?
Correct, i stumbled on the Part number on etrailer, then plug it into Curt and it will show. I ultimately bought from RealTruck, very reasonable, fast shipping. Curt PN 13493
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Bronco4

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Look what showed up today. Who said tow package is a commodity problem?? Guess I'm going to clean out the depot now.

ETA: This is NOT a factory tow setup it is just the hitch and trailer light module. There were a few in the depot so I ordered them to use in developing a solution for those wanting tow but dropped the order option. I will post updates as they become available.

Bronco tow pkg.jpg


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Updated June 13

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Flip what Ford parts do i need for a Brake controller and how do i wire it for a non Ford trailer tow package???
 
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flip

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Flip what Ford parts do i need for a Brake controller and how do i wire it for a non Ford trailer tow package???
I haven’t messed with that yet. Give me a couple weeks. Out of the office this coming week.
 

gizmohd

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Found this document that may be helpful....
 

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nic

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Probably a dumb question, but I've got the aux switches. What would be the harm in stealing the pre-wired rear 12-volt to tie into the 7-pin? Seems like it would work without having to dig into that wheel well panel. Just need to ensure you flip the switch when in-use.
 

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Probably a dumb question, but I've got the aux switches. What would be the harm in stealing the pre-wired rear 12-volt to tie into the 7-pin? Seems like it would work without having to dig into that wheel well panel. Just need to ensure you flip the switch when in-use.
If you are adding tow wiring, you have to open the panel to access the tail light wiring so no extra effort. If it already has factory TT, pin 5 on the trailer plug has 12V+ for trailer battery charging. No reason you can't tap into this even if you have the breakaway battery.
 

Gangstead

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I'm thinking of picking up that Curt hitch as well. I will only use it for a bike rack so it's actually cleaner without the plate for the harness and the install doesn't involve dropping the bumper. The price is right too. Let us know how you like it.
Happy to follow up that I got the Curt Hitch yesterday and put it in. Only takes a few minutes. 100% worth paying 1/3 the OEM hitch price. Pics in thread: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/curt-hitch-installed.23720/
 

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How do you mount the 4/7 pin wire connector to the Curt Hitch?
We'll see when Flip's kit starts shipping! My plan (eventually) is to leave the wires for the 4 pin long and have them routed to the storage under the back cargo lid. Then when I need to use it I just unroll it out and shut the tail gate on it. That's how I've done it for my Outback and Odyssey and it never caused any problems and the connector doesn't live its life exposed to the elements. 99% of my hitch usage is bike rack with a small u-haul trailer rental once or maybe twice per year so having it tucked away and stored is my preference.

Etrailer also looks like they have some that bolt to the bumper or use a pipe clamp onto the frame or nearby mounting point.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tow-Ready/18144.html (drill holes)
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tow-Ready/18140.html (pipe clamp)
 

KustomKarl

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These branches would supply the needed signals to the converter. Have to figure out how to get the turn signal from the right side to the left. The main harness runs behind the rear seat and doesn't have any connectors after it comes out of the BCM in the front until it hits the C411 connector.
Flip, is there any reason not to T into the circuit at C414/C415 vs C410/C411? Seems like there would be less wires to deal with in creating a T harness at C414/C415. Do you have connector type/pinout info on C414/C415?

Ford Bronco Tow Package arrived - contents inside 1632240738057



Any chance the connectors are the same as a Bronco Sport?

Bronco Sport connector:
Ford Bronco Tow Package arrived - contents inside 1632241098303

Ford Bronco Tow Package arrived - contents inside 1632241364577
 

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@flip, are those two 12V+ at the middle trailer tow module connector fed directly and dedicated from the fuses? do you have a diagram showing the power from fuses to connector?

Would you recommend taking power for the converter from one of the pins (and reducing the fuse to 15A up front) and then taking the other one for the constant 12V+ on the 7-pin?

At this point I'm planning:
1. Use the Curt or Tekonsha plug and play that's coming out now
2. Powering its converter from the plug you have shown (replace fuse with 15A)

Then possibly, or maybe in the future:
3. Grabbing the other circuit from your plug to use as hot 12V+ for a future 7-way (and pull the fuse if not being used)
4. Stabbing a reverse wire on the Curt PnP harness to drive a relay for future 7-way reverse (will a standard automotive relay work for this?)

The addition of reverse and 12V would allow for the future use of a wireless brake controller if necessary, no brake wire needed.
 

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@flip, are those two 12V+ at the middle trailer tow module connector fed directly and dedicated from the fuses? do you have a diagram showing the power from fuses to connector?

Would you recommend taking power for the converter from one of the pins (and reducing the fuse to 15A up front) and then taking the other one for the constant 12V+ on the 7-pin?

At this point I'm planning:
1. Use the Curt or Tekonsha plug and play that's coming out now
2. Powering its converter from the plug you have shown (replace fuse with 15A)

Then possibly, or maybe in the future:
3. Grabbing the other circuit from your plug to use as hot 12V+ for a future 7-way (and pull the fuse if not being used)
4. Stabbing a reverse wire on the Curt PnP harness to drive a relay for future 7-way reverse (will a standard automotive relay work for this?)

The addition of reverse and 12V would allow for the future use of a wireless brake controller if necessary, no brake wire needed.
This is basically what I'm planning on doing initially. For the reverse light relay, I'd recommend using one that is diode-suppressed or soldering in a diode on your relay connector to prevent the reverse current spike from damaging the BCM. It may also be a good idea to put a relay on the battery charge line (if that line isn't already ignition switched) to keep a trailer from draining the battery.

Eventually I plan on getting the factory TRM and figuring out which wiring harnesses are necessary to get it working 100% OEM. The dealer mannequin I had for a while had the factory tow package. I downloaded all of its module data using Forscan. There is not much in the TRM and all the towing options in the IPC and BCM are available in the plaintext options screen. The Forscan 2.4 branch supports module programming should the module come in blank. My new vLinker FS USB adapter that supports all of the new programming modes including FEPS 18V just arrived so that I can do this programming. The devs recommend using wired modules instead of BlueTooth for this but BT ones can be used to do configuration and downloads. They now recommend this module over the OBDLink EX USB (and it's $12 cheaper!).
 

skoorb76

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This is basically what I'm planning on doing initially. For the reverse light relay, I'd recommend using one that is diode-suppressed or soldering in a diode on your relay connector to prevent the reverse current spike from damaging the BCM. It may also be a good idea to put a relay on the battery charge line (if that line isn't already ignition switched) to keep a trailer from draining the battery.

Eventually I plan on getting the factory TRM and figuring out which wiring harnesses are necessary to get it working 100% OEM. The dealer mannequin I had for a while had the factory tow package. I downloaded all of its module data using Forscan. There is not much in the TRM and all the towing options in the IPC and BCM are available in the plaintext options screen. The Forscan 2.4 branch supports module programming should the module come in blank. My new vLinker FS USB adapter that supports all of the new programming modes including FEPS 18V just arrived so that I can do this programming. The devs recommend using wired modules instead of BlueTooth for this but BT ones can be used to do configuration and downloads. They now recommend this module over the OBDLink EX USB (and it's $12 cheaper!).
Sweet, keep us posted on that for sure. I have used Forscan to hack a few things on my 2014 Flex (adding Sync 3 APIM, making keys, some tweaky things). I have a wired ELM adapter with the MS/HS CAN switch (cheapie). Will tread lightly with the newer model for sure.
 
 


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