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VoltageDrop

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The terminals? Connectors are blanks on the factory TT plugs.
Hey @flip do you have part numbers for the pins to tie into these connectors? A part number for the white trim fasteners would also be helpful because I can't tell if I broke some or if they are supposed to come apart. I can now confirm that even the base has the trailer tow connectors and the two big blue-red ones are hot and the brown wire is hot with the tail lights on. Looking at the wiring diagram again, it appears the yellow/green/orange wires route from here up to C201 at the front fender but they don't leave C201 to head back toward the 7-pin trailer connector like they would on a trailer tow vehicle. In other words, it doesn't look like they connect to anything on either end.

Just to tie this thread to the Curt plug-and-play one, the halogen tail lights are indeed wired differently than the LED ones so I had to transpose pins on each side to make it work. Details on post #79 here:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...er-wiring-harness-out-for-bronco.25164/page-6

Ford Bronco Tow Package arrived - contents inside PXL_20211217_031509708

Ford Bronco Tow Package arrived - contents inside PXL_20211217_031444266
 
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Yazaki 7114-4121-02 big
Yazaki 7114-4111-02 small

If you need a couple LMK.
 

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Finished and everything works great.

So I installed a Curt reciever

https://www.carid.com/curt/2021-for...-class-3-rear-trailer-hitches-4226823872.html

TK99VR T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

4 pin to 7 blade adapter

CURT 57672 Dual-Output 4-Way Flat Vehicle-Side to 7-Way RV Blade Trailer Wiring Adapter , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EP0HPI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_G9RMXYEX9V5SWBJB2J7H

Along with an Curt Echo bluetooth brake controller.

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-51180-C...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
 

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Looking at the two 12v (30A & 40A) that are terminated in C4397A. Those are always hot right?

II want to use the 30A blue wire for the 12v aux on the 7-pin, but I’d prefer it be only hot when ignition is on.
 

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Finished and everything works great.

So I installed a Curt reciever

https://www.carid.com/curt/2021-for...-class-3-rear-trailer-hitches-4226823872.html

TK99VR T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

4 pin to 7 blade adapter

CURT 57672 Dual-Output 4-Way Flat Vehicle-Side to 7-Way RV Blade Trailer Wiring Adapter , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EP0HPI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_G9RMXYEX9V5SWBJB2J7H

Along with an Curt Echo bluetooth brake controller.

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-51180-C...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Does this work with surge brakes? I am looking installing the tow kit myself since I deleted mine from the build so I could get my Bronco sooner and want to tow my small boat, the trailer has surge brakes
 
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Looking at the two 12v (30A & 40A) that are terminated in C4397A. Those are always hot right?

II want to use the 30A blue wire for the 12v aux on the 7-pin, but I’d prefer it be only hot when ignition is on.
It's hot all of the time.
 
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TremmRG1

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Does this work with surge brakes? I am looking installing the tow kit myself since I deleted mine from the build so I could get my Bronco sooner and want to tow my small boat, the trailer has surge brakes
This question would be better answered by tech support at Curt as I have no experience with that style of braking system.
 
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Here's a very crude way I would do a 7 pin. This is a Curt tail light converter. Right and left plugins are self explanatory. For whatever reason, Curt found it acceptable to use a heavy black wire as the power (don't give me the excuse home wiring black is hot crap) and white is ground as noted by the preinstalled eyelet. The red and blue wires stuck into the connector represent the power for the converter and 12V+ for the bluetooth brake or whatever else you need 12V+ for. Depending on how the BT controller works, you may need to pick one of the other open spots but you get the idea. Also, don't forget to change the fuses in the box to the specified ratings for your converter and accessory.

Curt's 4 pin plug wiring is much shorter than Ford's so you have a couple choices. One, mount according to their instruction on the outside, run a wire in for power and find a good location on the body to run a ground screw. Second option is mount the converter inside and run the flat 4 wiring through the left tail light grommet. I prefer option 2 since electrical stuff and the elements don't mix and the pigtail for the 7 pin is about 4' long. Don't pay attention to the paper in the pic, it's just to hide the wad of wires so it's not confusing.

Either way, you are going to cut the flat 4 plug off and wire it to 7 pin.

7pinflat4.jpg


fordtrailplugface.jpg
 

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TremmRG1

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Here's a very crude way I would do a 7 pin. This is a Curt tail light converter. Right and left plugins are self explanatory. For whatever reason, Curt found it acceptable to use a heavy black wire as the power (don't give me the excuse home wiring black is hot crap) and white is ground as noted by the preinstalled eyelet. The red and blue wires stuck into the connector represent the power for the converter and 12V+ for the bluetooth brake or whatever else you need 12V+ for. Depending on how the BT controller works, you may need to pick one of the other open spots but you get the idea. Also, don't forget to change the fuses in the box to the specified ratings for your converter and accessory.

Curt's 4 pin plug wiring is much shorter than Ford's so you have a couple choices. One, mount according to their instruction on the outside, run a wire in for power and find a good location on the body to run a ground screw. Second option is mount the converter inside and run the flat 4 wiring through the left tail light grommet. I prefer option 2 since electrical stuff and the elements don't mix and the pigtail for the 7 pin is about 4' long. Don't pay attention to the paper in the pic, it's just to hide the wad of wires so it's not confusing.

Either way, you are going to cut the flat 4 plug off and wire it to 7 pin.

Ford Bronco Tow Package arrived - contents inside fordtrailplugface


Ford Bronco Tow Package arrived - contents inside fordtrailplugface
You can get this 4 pin to 7 pin and no cutting and splicing needed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EP0HPI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_G9RMXYEX9V5SWBJB2J7H
 
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Does this work with surge brakes? I am looking installing the tow kit myself since I deleted mine from the build so I could get my Bronco sooner and want to tow my small boat, the trailer has surge brakes
Surge brakes don’t require any wiring to operate. You have an inertia activated master cylinder on your trailer. When you slow down, brakes engage.

Many folks say they perform better in a true hard stop situation. But not as fine for light touches.

For a light boat, a 4 way connector and surge brakes is all you need. This whole thread is not for your use case.
 

KrazeeEyezKilla

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Hoping I'm not asking something previously answered in this thread, but I read through the pages and don't think I saw anything...

I had my dealer order these parts (so I can use my FordPass points):
- MB3Z19D520A - Trailer Hitch Assembly
- FT1Z15A416A - Trailer Tow Wiring Kit

They are quoting me over 3 hours of labor, so around $460 for them to install. If it's something I can do myself I'd like to save the $ but I can't find any clear instructions on how to install just the hitch and 4-pin wiring kit (and level of difficulty for the wiring.) I'm also not clear on whether the hitch assembly or wiring kit includes the 4 pin plug (or 4/7 plug) that would go on the hitch so the wiring is not just dangling out there.

Any help or direction appreciated.
 

clhman

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Hoping I'm not asking something previously answered in this thread, but I read through the pages and don't think I saw anything...

I had my dealer order these parts (so I can use my FordPass points):
- MB3Z19D520A - Trailer Hitch Assembly
- FT1Z15A416A - Trailer Tow Wiring Kit

They are quoting me over 3 hours of labor, so around $460 for them to install. If it's something I can do myself I'd like to save the $ but I can't find any clear instructions on how to install just the hitch and 4-pin wiring kit (and level of difficulty for the wiring.) I'm also not clear on whether the hitch assembly or wiring kit includes the 4 pin plug (or 4/7 plug) that would go on the hitch so the wiring is not just dangling out there.

Any help or direction appreciated.
It should be fairly straightforward. If you have basic hand tools, I'd recommend tackling it yourself and saving money. Not worth $460 to me, just my opinion.
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