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I've been saying this for weeks, I don't understand why people are freaking out about the trailer tow kits. This lighting technology already has solutions for trailer tow, and Ford sells it. The only circuits that are left for someone wanting trailer brakes is 1: Optional Reverse wire, 2: Breakaway battery charge wire, and 3: Braking wire. The worst case wiring requirements will be tapping the brake pedal switch for braking signal (relay req'd if ground triggering) Run a 12V+, Brake circuit (post controller) to the rear, and a reverse tap if you need one.
A lot has to do with the lack of info from Ford on what is and isn't included with factory TT. If you have TT, the signal leaves the BCM under the dash, goes back to the t railer module on the left rear wheel housing, all the way back up front, out, then under the vehicle all the way to the trailer plug.

Until these start hitting the ground to figure out what is or isn't there on non-TT rigs, it's just a whole lot of unknown. Like you said, at worst, buy the Ford accessory trailer light module and tap into your rear lights to get signals for the module. Flat 4 but better than nothing.





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From what I can see it contains the hitch, 4 long mounting bolts, the 4/7 pin plug with bracket and bolts.
Is it the MB3Z-19D520-A that includes those items or the MB3Z-17D826-A one?
 

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A lot has to do with the lack of info from Ford on what is and isn't included with factory TT. If you have TT, the signal leaves the BCM under the dash, goes back to the t railer module on the left rear wheel housing, all the way back up front, out, then under the vehicle all the way to the trailer plug.

Until these start hitting the ground to figure out what is or isn't there on non-TT rigs, it's just a whole lot of unknown. Like you said, at worst, buy the Ford accessory trailer light module and tap into your rear lights to get signals for the module. Flat 4 but better than nothing.
My 2008 Explorer is wired nearly the same way. The Body Control module provides power and circuit points, and has a loop harness for an aftermarket (or Ford) brake controller that mounts to the dash. The only maybe I see is if it defeats the reverse sensors or cameras (the Explorer does not.) When you say BCM are you talking Brake or Body Control Module? If either were mounted in the rear, the loop to the front would be understandable so the braking circuit will get it's variable adjustment, and the Electric brake system will get it's power source. Ford did say what's in the towing capability setup: 4 pin, 7 pin, pre-wired for a brake controller. Everything else is people re-inventing the wheel.
 
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Is it the MB3Z-19D520-A that includes those items or the MB3Z-17D826-A one?
19D520 is the Ford accessory hitch kit. I think it runs about $350. Hitch alone is $250ish. I’ll check with my accessory lady to see if they’re available yet.
 

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19D520 is the Ford accessory hitch kit. I think it runs about $350. Hitch alone is $250ish. I’ll check with my accessory lady to see if they’re available yet.
Thanks!
 

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The 0.1745 measurement makes me a little more comfortable. The box tubing of my trailer tongue and the surge brake actuator are both the same thickness.
 
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I ordered 10 kits thinking the trailer plug was included, it’s not. Just the hitch, 4 long bolts, plug bracket and 2 bracket bolts. I can order everything individually cheaper than the kit and get the plug. Something not right, need to check with my accessory peeps tomorrow.
 

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I ordered 10 kits thinking the trailer plug was included, it’s not. Just the hitch, 4 long bolts, plug bracket and 2 bracket bolts. I can order everything individually cheaper than the kit and get the plug. Something Brnot right, need to check with my accessory peeps tomorrow.
I ordered 10 kits thinking the trailer plug was included, it’s not. Just the hitch, 4 long bolts, plug bracket and 2 bracket bolts. I can order everything individually cheaper than the kit and get the plug. Something not right, need to check with my accessory peeps tomorrow.
The plug bracket is for which plug??? Thanks for all you do.
 
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The plug bracket is for which plug??? Thanks for all you do.
Ok, so what I'm trying to do is come up with a "kit" to add the hitch, factory trailer plug and trailer light adapter so we can have at least turn and stop. No trailer brake function at this time.

Ford hitch- MB3Z-17D826-A not showing list today but I think it was about $245.00 a few weeks ago
Ford trailer 4/7 pin plug with bracket- M2DZ-14A666-B $65.25 (this is not included with the accessory trailer kit from Ford)
4 long bolts- W721474-S439 $18.00 (pack of 4)
Ford trailer plug pigtail- 3U2Z-14S411-JXB $49.73 OR Pollak 11-998 Amazon $19.18 This is what will connect the trailer light module to the factory 4/7 pin trailer plug.
Trailer light converter- FT1Z-15A416-A $110.00

All of the Ford hardware would run about $500.00 list price. The only thing left is to figure out where to tap into the factory wiring to get the signal for the trailer light module and hook up to the plug. I've got some ideas but need a Bronco in the shop to verify wiring locations, power feed and grounds against the wiring diagram. If I get a good solution figured out I may put my own kit together and sell through our parts department. Will take several weeks until our FCTP arrives and probably the beginning of August before mine is here.

If folks just want the hitch and bolts I might be able to put a deal together for forum members but don't want to piss the admins off by trying to sell stuff without being a sponsor. Will try to get that worked out first.
 

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@flip

Thanks for putting this all together with the intention of helping the B6 community. Is the motivation behind this so that someone could remove the commodity tow package from their build - and have a backup plan? Assuming some would feel comfortable enough to install themselves - it would be a cheaper option.

You're saying the tow package for $595 doesn't include the 4/7 pin plug? I thought it did.
 
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@flip

Thanks for putting this all together with the intention of helping the B6 community. Is the motivation behind this so that someone could remove the commodity tow package from their build - and have a backup plan? Assuming some would feel comfortable enough to install themselves - it would be a cheaper option.

You're saying the tow package for $595 doesn't include the 4/7 pin plug? I thought it did.
That $500 number would be list price for all the hardware needed. The Ford Accessory Trailer Tow kit did not include the module, 4/7 plug or wiring. The plan is to cut the flat 4 off the module and wire it to the pigtail. You would basically need to supply the labor and maybe some butt connectors. Again, there are some things that need to be worked out/verified on an actual vehicle prior to putting out a tutorial and parts list or kit.

The Ford Accessory TT Kit P/N MB3Z-19D520-A list is $350.00 and does not include wiring, 4/7 plug or module. Piecing them together will be cheaper than buying their kit, plus the module, plug and wiring. My cost on all of that stuff is way less then list so if I can make a in house kit I can probably make a better deal. Shipping may suck but at least everything would be there.
 

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Don't lnownif it helps, but assuming the owners manual is correct, there in an inside fuse box that has a fuse for a "brake switch".

Don't know if that is referring to an actual on/off switch somewhere or not.
 
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Don't lnownif it helps, but assuming the owners manual is correct, there in an inside fuse box that has a fuse for a "brake switch".

Don't know if that is referring to an actual on/off switch somewhere or not.
The factory wiring diagrams don't differentiate between with tow or without (at least not right now). Looking in the parts system there are dozens of options for the rear harness with or without tow, 2 or 4 door, audio system, sway bar disconnect, etc. Most F150s, even without factory tow will have the plug taped to the harness. I'm not confident non-tow broncos will have the plug which means we will have to tap into the tail light wiring somewhere.

If you tap into the brake/turn circuits in the back the tow module/converter will do the rest. I would like to find out if there is a circuit running back to provide battery power for break away charging and interior light if needed.
 

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Don't lnownif it helps, but assuming the owners manual is correct, there in an inside fuse box that has a fuse for a "brake switch".

Don't know if that is referring to an actual on/off switch somewhere or not.
I think you're referring to the under hood fuse box. It has a provision for the 1) trailer brake controller power, 2) *Brake on-off(could be parking brake), 3) *Trailer tow park lamp relay (this is likely a power point switched by the body module), 4) *Trailer tow backup lamps, 5) Trailer tow battery charge.
* - These circuits could be power sources only, switched by a relay or module down stream.

There's another Brake on-off switch in the body module, I can only assume one is parking brake, the other is vehicle brake lighting.

Those fuse boxes may or may not have wires traveling through the harness. In cases that they are not traveling, I use those provisions (if applicable) to source power for the items as listed. If the power supplied is constant battery (for the trailer tow) I would use a relay so it disconnects when the vehicle is off. Having the auto (redlight) shutoff feature, those circuits will require testing while that feature is active.
 

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I think you're referring to the under hood fuse box. It has a provision for the 1) trailer brake controller power, 2) *Brake on-off(could be parking brake), 3) *Trailer tow park lamp relay (this is likely a power point switched by the body module), 4) *Trailer tow backup lamps, 5) Trailer tow battery charge.
* - These circuits could be power sources only, switched by a relay or module down stream.

There's another Brake on-off switch in the body module, I can only assume one is parking brake, the other is vehicle brake lighting.

Those fuse boxes may or may not have wires traveling through the harness. In cases that they are not traveling, I use those provisions (if applicable) to source power for the items as listed. If the power supplied is constant battery (for the trailer tow) I would use a relay so it disconnects when the vehicle is off. Having the auto (redlight) shutoff feature, those circuits will require testing while that feature is active.
Yeah and talk about the one inside. There was a debate as to if the LEDs have an actual brake switch due to variable voltage. So when I saw that fuse I thought maybe it led to something that could be used to tap in for brake lights instead of trying to tap into the LEDs in the back. But who knows
 

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