Tow Package arrived - contents inside

[Razorbak86]

Biggest factor right now is getting a Bronco in…

Hey, me too!!!

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[flip]

@flip can the bull bar be ordered from anywhere?

Yes. I'm going to put an accessories deal together for B6G members if my FAD can get me info and web sales guy get's our store loaded. Hopefully this week.

 

[flip]

This is the plan based on what is in the wiring diagrams and what wiring I think is there, factory TT or not.

Possible problems. Wiring is not there or where I think it is. Ford accessory tail light converter doesn't play well with factory modules/sets circuit fault codes. It's designed to work with PWM (LED) lights and halogen bulbs. The converter is prewired with the 4 pin, which I plan on cutting for use with OE trailer plug 7/4.

Known problem. The Bronco specific 7/4 trailer plug comes with it's own special bracket that's not available from Ford individually. I got one of 3 of these that were in the depot and have not seen any since. If you buy the Ford accessory trailer hitch kit it comes with the hitch, 4 bolts and bracket for the flat 4 pin. See the pic below..

If you just want a flat 4 a lot of this isn't going to apply but I'm going to walk through adding the 12V+ supply and reverse.

If you had factory TT this is what the wiring manual shows. There are two higher amp VBATT 12V+ coming in through this connector near where the module would mount. Problem is, this plugs into the module which means the male side is part of the module. Got a fix.
.

I've got a source for the correct connector and terminals. Ford also carries the pigtails but they are much more expensive than where I'm getting them. The downside, you have to make up your own pigtails. The larger connector should have one circuit coming in for park lights. That's assuming the BCM feeds this factory TT or not. Not a huge problem because we can pick that signal up at the next connector.

While this is up I'll explain the connectors. C410 on driver side and C411 (not pictured) are where the turn, stop, park, reverse lights meet up prior to exiting through the orange bulkhead and to the tail light housings. G400 is where we will pick up a ground for the Ford tail light converter. The 3 connectors circled are for factory TT. The plan is to mount the converter in this general area.

The big question, to cut or not cut. I hate Scotch lock connectors having fought electrical problems in the past due to half arsed installations. Ideally, there would be another set of male/female connectors between C410 and C411 with jumpers coming off the wires we need to pick up signal from but we're getting into more cost and more complexity. The connectors are unsealed Molex MX150 20 cavity. Readily available but short of buying pre made pigtails, would require crimping tools.

This brings us back to trying to make this as easy to do as possible without butchering the factory wiring. Two other options are to cut the wires, add the branches, solder and heat shrink or remove the pins from the connectors, cut and wire in a pre soldered "Y" section. Would still require reconnection via solder and heat shrink or insulated butt connector. Again, this may be within some folks abilities, some not so much which is OK.

These branches would supply the needed signals to the converter. Have to figure out how to get the turn signal from the right side to the left. The main harness runs behind the rear seat and doesn't have any connectors after it comes out of the BCM in the front until it hits the C411 connector.

After we have the right signals to the converter it's either time to say good enough with the flat 4 and try to find a body plug or bulkhead to get it back to the hitch. This is why I need a vehicle here since the rear trim panels and floor have to come out for access.

If you want the 12V+, we'll need to obtain a Pollak or equivalent harness. The 12V+ will be connected to the corresponding 7 pin terminal, the flat 4 from the converter will need to be cut and wires added to the Pollak harness (solder and heat shrink or insulated butt connectors and taped up). You can buy a Pollak 7/4 trailer plug with a bracket, it just won't be the right bracket and you'll have to figure out how or where to mount. Could just zip tie the thing to the factory hitch if you don't mind sneers and jeers from Bronco TT purists.

Obviously there's more detail including specific wire colors and circuit number that will be added once I've got a victim, er vehicle, to practice on.

 

[flip]

C410 Face

C410

C411 face

C411

 

[vrewald14]

This is the plan based on what is in the wiring diagrams and what wiring I think is there, factory TT or not.

Possible problems. Wiring is not there or where I think it is. Ford accessory tail light converter doesn't play well with factory modules/sets circuit fault codes. It's designed to work with PWM (LED) lights and halogen bulbs. The converter is prewired with the 4 pin, which I plan on cutting for use with OE trailer plug 7/4.

Known problem. The Bronco specific 7/4 trailer plug comes with it's own special bracket that's not available from Ford individually. I got one of 3 of these that were in the depot and have not seen any since. If you buy the Ford accessory trailer hitch kit it comes with the hitch, 4 bolts and bracket for the flat 4 pin. See the pic below..

If you just want a flat 4 a lot of this isn't going to apply but I'm going to walk through adding the 12V+ supply and reverse.

If you had factory TT this is what the wiring manual shows. There are two higher amp VBATT 12V+ coming in through this connector near where the module would mount. Problem is, this plugs into the module which means the male side is part of the module. Got a fix.
.

I've got a source for the correct connector and terminals. Ford also carries the pigtails but they are much more expensive than where I'm getting them. The downside, you have to make up your own pigtails. The larger connector should have one circuit coming in for park lights. That's assuming the BCM feeds this factory TT or not. Not a huge problem because we can pick that signal up at the next connector.

While this is up I'll explain the connectors. C410 on driver side and C411 (not pictured) are where the turn, stop, park, reverse lights meet up prior to exiting through the orange bulkhead and to the tail light housings. G400 is where we will pick up a ground for the Ford tail light converter. The 3 connectors circled are for factory TT. The plan is to mount the converter in this general area.

The big question, to cut or not cut. I hate Scotch lock connectors having fought electrical problems in the past due to half arsed installations. Ideally, there would be another set of male/female connectors between C410 and C411 with jumpers coming off the wires we need to pick up signal from but we're getting into more cost and more complexity. The connectors are unsealed Molex MX150 20 cavity. Readily available but short of buying pre made pigtails, would require crimping tools.

This brings us back to trying to make this as easy to do as possible without butchering the factory wiring. Two other options are to cut the wires, add the branches, solder and heat shrink or remove the pins from the connectors, cut and wire in a pre soldered "Y" section. Would still require reconnection via solder and heat shrink or insulated butt connector. Again, this may be within some folks abilities, some not so much which is OK.

These branches would supply the needed signals to the converter. Have to figure out how to get the turn signal from the right side to the left. The main harness runs behind the rear seat and doesn't have any connectors after it comes out of the BCM in the front until it hits the C411 connector.

After we have the right signals to the converter it's either time to say good enough with the flat 4 and try to find a body plug or bulkhead to get it back to the hitch. This is why I need a vehicle here since the rear trim panels and floor have to come out for access.

If you want the 12V+, we'll need to obtain a Pollak or equivalent harness. The 12V+ will be connected to the corresponding 7 pin terminal, the flat 4 from the converter will need to be cut and wires added to the Pollak harness (solder and heat shrink or insulated butt connectors and taped up). You can buy a Pollak 7/4 trailer plug with a bracket, it just won't be the right bracket and you'll have to figure out how or where to mount. Could just zip tie the thing to the factory hitch if you don't mind sneers and jeers from Bronco TT purists.

Obviously there's more detail including specific wire colors and circuit number that will be added once I've got a victim, er vehicle, to practice on.

The complexity associated with installing post-production is precisely why there's significant value in just ordering the package from the factory.

As someone perfectly capable of doing this installation, it just doesn't make any sense to spend my time doing it when there's a well-engineered factory option available.

 

[Ksjrb03]

The complexity associated with installing post-production is precisely why there's significant value in just ordering the package from the factory.

As someone perfectly capable of doing this installation, it just doesn't make any sense to spend my time doing it when there's a well-engineered factory option available.

Agree, except some trims were not allowed that well-engineered factory option, therefore the work @flip is doing here is very much appreciated. I will be purchasing my tow package through him when available.

 

[vrewald14]

Agree, except some trims were not allowed that well-engineered factory option, therefore the work @fip is doing here is very much appreciated. I will be purchasing my tow package through him when available.

VERY good point - Base and "Fully Loaded" First Edition owners...

 

[flip]

The complexity associated with installing post-production is precisely why there's significant value in just ordering the package from the factory.

As someone perfectly capable of doing this installation, it just doesn't make any sense to spend my time doing it when there's a well-engineered factory option available.

Absolutely agree. This setup doesn't address trailer braking since it appears that's going to be integrated with factory TT. One could always wire in some other brake controller but ideally, get factory. For those that didn't want TT to be one of the factors holding up a build, this is an option. Some just need the hitch for a bike rack or tray, some need lights to be legal. Different grades of rigging involved. What I described above seems a bit involved but one of my many faults is over complicating things. I like pics so I hope when I get the chance to do one, it will make more sense.

 

[vrewald14]

Absolutely agree. This setup doesn't address trailer braking since it appears that's going to be integrated with factory TT. One could always wire in some other brake controller but ideally, get factory. For those that didn't want TT to be one of the factors holding up a build, this is an option. Some just need the hitch for a bike rack or tray, some need lights to be legal. Different grades of rigging involved. What I described above seems a bit involved but one of my many faults is over complicating things. I like pics so I hope when I get the chance to do one, it will make more sense.

Well said. The market is very diverse in terms of needs so this will absolutely be a valuable asset to the aftermarket.

 

[Erock]

@flip ok, send me whatever info I need to get you to order one for me. I really just want the bolt pattern and profile for that area of the bumper but it seems like buying one is the only real way to know that I’ve got it correct. Thanks in advance.

 

[redone17]

Bravo.

 

[Razorbak86]

The complexity associated with installing post-production is precisely why there's significant value in just ordering the package from the factory.

As someone perfectly capable of doing this installation, it just doesn't make any sense to spend my time doing it when there's a well-engineered factory option available.

 

[Lakelife36]

The complexity associated with installing post-production is precisely why there's significant value in just ordering the package from the factory.

As someone perfectly capable of doing this installation, it just doesn't make any sense to spend my time doing it when there's a well-engineered factory option available.

That's the first time I've heard this Class II reciever being referred to as "well-engineered"

 

[RPF]

Some of us also weren't allowed to order 53Q. I would have if it was allowed on my trim but for some asinine reason it wasn't (GVWR blah blah blah...).

 

[vrewald14]

Availability means nothing to those who aren't going to get one in the next 6 months anyway.

That's the first time I've heard this Class II reciever being referred to as "well-engineered"

So why is it not well engineered?

It's engineered well because it does the job it's intended to do with a high level of nice integration with zero additional work required.

If you want to complain about towing capacity that's irrelevant to it being designed the intended specification.

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