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Trail rash / scratches on solid vs metalic paints?

da_jokker

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Just curious from folks that have experienced this, or seen it in person.

I know lighter colors hide scratches (and dirt) better, but what about Solid vs Metalic?

From what my buddy Google says, Metalic is harder to repair from a body shop point of view, but I'm not concerned about that. more of which hides light scratches.
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Texas Sunshine

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The vehicles I have had in the past the metallic do better long term in the sun than the solid colors. I'm getting Race Red but I garage my vehicle.
 

Offroadrob

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Metallic hides chips better

your Colorado pinstipping? It’s not going to hide
 

broadicustomworks

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Metallic is better at hiding all defects vs. a solid color.
This goes for minor chips, scratches, dust and dirt hiding.
They are easier maintenance ongoing, as they do tend to hide water spotting better.
At least everything that is a bright/light color.
The silver is going to perform the best at hiding.
The Rapid red will perform the worst at hiding.
As far as metallics.
The sheen given off vs. a solid color helps in this regard.
Touch-up pens work well for metallics also vs solid color because of the same premise.
The metallic detracts from the blob of touch-up.

On that same comparison, metallics are (to me) about the same difficulty in spot repairing as solids. Spraying the metallic can be challenging just due to getting the metallic to lay right/not be off.
Getting the tint right is a challenge on solid colors that have a tint, such as (in order of difficulty of match) Race Red, A51, Cactus.
Long story short, for longevity of the finish, ability to hide some defects, and in the event you needed some paint work done, I would go with a metallic all day.
It is why I chose Velocity over Race red.
I love the Race red, and it looks killer with some mud on it.
But dealing with paint, dealing with keeping my solid black Z71 detailed and ceramic coated (I STILL fight water spots by the way), I'm a fan of the non-solids all day.
Over the years I've had dozens of vehicles in metallics, solids, tri-coats.
I fought the metallic burgundy of the early 90's Ford had, but when it was clean, man it looked great. Used to use the old Liquid Glass wax (tells my age and how far tech has come in waxes since then) on it that came in the metal can, waxed it every two months.

Sorry so long. When it comes to paint and painting/detailing, I could go on for days.
Been doing it for 30+ years.
 

Rubicon 2 Badlands

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Metallic is better at hiding all defects vs. a solid color.
This goes for minor chips, scratches, dust and dirt hiding.
They are easier maintenance ongoing, as they do tend to hide water spotting better.
At least everything that is a bright/light color.
The silver is going to perform the best at hiding.
The Rapid red will perform the worst at hiding.
As far as metallics.
The sheen given off vs. a solid color helps in this regard.
Touch-up pens work well for metallics also vs solid color because of the same premise.
The metallic detracts from the blob of touch-up.

On that same comparison, metallics are (to me) about the same difficulty in spot repairing as solids. Spraying the metallic can be challenging just due to getting the metallic to lay right/not be off.
Getting the tint right is a challenge on solid colors that have a tint, such as (in order of difficulty of match) Race Red, A51, Cactus.
Long story short, for longevity of the finish, ability to hide some defects, and in the event you needed some paint work done, I would go with a metallic all day.
It is why I chose Velocity over Race red.
I love the Race red, and it looks killer with some mud on it.
But dealing with paint, dealing with keeping my solid black Z71 detailed and ceramic coated (I STILL fight water spots by the way), I'm a fan of the non-solids all day.
Over the years I've had dozens of vehicles in metallics, solids, tri-coats.
I fought the metallic burgundy of the early 90's Ford had, but when it was clean, man it looked great. Used to use the old Liquid Glass wax (tells my age and how far tech has come in waxes since then) on it that came in the metal can, waxed it every two months.

Sorry so long. When it comes to paint and painting/detailing, I could go on for days.
Been doing it for 30+ years.
Great info. Thanks!
 

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Razorbak86

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Sorry so long. When it comes to paint and painting/detailing, I could go on for days.
Been doing it for 30+ years.
Dave, don't apologize. That was awesome! Thanks for sharing your expertise! 🤩
 
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da_jokker

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Metallic is better at hiding all defects vs. a solid color.
This goes for minor chips, scratches, dust and dirt hiding.
They are easier maintenance ongoing, as they do tend to hide water spotting better.
At least everything that is a bright/light color.
The silver is going to perform the best at hiding.
The Rapid red will perform the worst at hiding.
As far as metallics.
The sheen given off vs. a solid color helps in this regard.
Touch-up pens work well for metallics also vs solid color because of the same premise.
The metallic detracts from the blob of touch-up.

On that same comparison, metallics are (to me) about the same difficulty in spot repairing as solids. Spraying the metallic can be challenging just due to getting the metallic to lay right/not be off.
Getting the tint right is a challenge on solid colors that have a tint, such as (in order of difficulty of match) Race Red, A51, Cactus.
Long story short, for longevity of the finish, ability to hide some defects, and in the event you needed some paint work done, I would go with a metallic all day.
It is why I chose Velocity over Race red.
I love the Race red, and it looks killer with some mud on it.
But dealing with paint, dealing with keeping my solid black Z71 detailed and ceramic coated (I STILL fight water spots by the way), I'm a fan of the non-solids all day.
Over the years I've had dozens of vehicles in metallics, solids, tri-coats.
I fought the metallic burgundy of the early 90's Ford had, but when it was clean, man it looked great. Used to use the old Liquid Glass wax (tells my age and how far tech has come in waxes since then) on it that came in the metal can, waxed it every two months.

Sorry so long. When it comes to paint and painting/detailing, I could go on for days.
Been doing it for 30+ years.
Much appreciated. I want to love Cactus Grey, but everything tells me that reality dictates a Metalic for long term. (In my case IS)

I too love liquid Glass. Still have some in the garage. Can't even buy it in California anymore due to the environmental folks...that tells you how GOOD that stuff is :ROFLMAO:
 

broadicustomworks

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Much appreciated. I want to love Cactus Grey, but everything tells me that reality dictates a Metalic for long term. (In my case IS)

I too love liquid Glass. Still have some in the garage. Can't even buy it in California anymore due to the environmental folks...that tells you how GOOD that stuff is :ROFLMAO:
Thanks!
Yeah i find myself now wondering if it was as good as I remember and if the new stuff is as good.
I use Griot's show wax now and it goes on well, comes off well, shines great.
I just don't think it lasts as long as Liquid glass did, to me. But it may be just that nostalgic thing.
 

Tricky Dick

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Metallic is better at hiding all defects vs. a solid color.
This goes for minor chips, scratches, dust and dirt hiding.
They are easier maintenance ongoing, as they do tend to hide water spotting better.
At least everything that is a bright/light color.
The silver is going to perform the best at hiding.
The Rapid red will perform the worst at hiding.
As far as metallics.
The sheen given off vs. a solid color helps in this regard.
Touch-up pens work well for metallics also vs solid color because of the same premise.
The metallic detracts from the blob of touch-up.

On that same comparison, metallics are (to me) about the same difficulty in spot repairing as solids. Spraying the metallic can be challenging just due to getting the metallic to lay right/not be off.
Getting the tint right is a challenge on solid colors that have a tint, such as (in order of difficulty of match) Race Red, A51, Cactus.
Long story short, for longevity of the finish, ability to hide some defects, and in the event you needed some paint work done, I would go with a metallic all day.
It is why I chose Velocity over Race red.
I love the Race red, and it looks killer with some mud on it.
But dealing with paint, dealing with keeping my solid black Z71 detailed and ceramic coated (I STILL fight water spots by the way), I'm a fan of the non-solids all day.
Over the years I've had dozens of vehicles in metallics, solids, tri-coats.
I fought the metallic burgundy of the early 90's Ford had, but when it was clean, man it looked great. Used to use the old Liquid Glass wax (tells my age and how far tech has come in waxes since then) on it that came in the metal can, waxed it every two months.

Sorry so long. When it comes to paint and painting/detailing, I could go on for days.
Been doing it for 30+ years.
/end thread

I also chose VB for it's relative defect hiding ability while not just being boring silver.
 

Mickey21

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I'm not that concerned, most of the paint exposed panels are easily removed and left for paint repair versus welded body panels. Will it be annoying, sure, but most anything can be fixed a lot more easily comparatively. As far as colors, I would rather have a color I love than a color that is hiding blemishes easily. If I was on the fence of colors, maybe it would be a reason to tip one way or the other, but I've never really been so torn on colors to see this issue firsthand.
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