Transmission crossmember braces - improve or remove?

[Bronc6g22]

I should have gone the skid route when I first hit the cross-members months ago (only lip damage at that point). I banged the passenger side hard over the weekend. I'm going to clean and paint and hide with the RCI cross and trans skids.

Crossing my fingers no significant consequences...

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[swooshdave]

I should have gone the skid route when I first hit the cross-members months ago (only lip damage at that point). I banged the passenger side hard over the weekend. I'm going to clean and paint and hide with the RCI cross and trans skids.

Crossing my fingers no significant consequences...

Pretty much confirms I'm going to add the plastic skids before hitting the rocks.

 

[swooshdave]

Plastic ordered. I went with metric hardware because the rest of the rig is metric. Plus I have some metric rivnuts.

 

[VoltageDrop]

Plastic ordered. I went with metric hardware because the rest of the rig is metric. Plus I have some metric rivnuts.

I did a quick fix at my Moab Airbnb and it seems to have helped. I undersized mine a bit but I would make them as wide as you

can cram in there to prevent any folding.

 

[swooshdave]

Rivnuts can technically be installed with just a nut and bolt, though using the intended tool is way easier. You would thread a nut on the bolt all the way to the hex, then install the rivnut on the bolt until threads are showing on the other side. Turn the nut down until it contacts the rivnut, place the assembly in the hole you want it in, and while holding the bolt stationary with a wrench, tighten the nut in a clockwise direction with another. It helps if you have a washer between the nut and rivnut and some thread oil, but it's not necessary. Keep tightening until you feel it start to bottom out, that's when you know you've fully deformed the rivnut. Loosen the nut, and the bolt should still be hand tight or close to it...your rivnut is ready to use.

I've found that when installing a rivnut, it's good to have a hole that isn't perfectly smooth and round. Take a small chisel and tap some locking "teeth" into the ID of the hole, so that when you go to loosen a tight bolt, the rivnut is less likely to spin. If you notice, the shank of the rivnut that mushrooms out has some splines on it, that's to help grip the hole when you install it...the teeth marks you put on the hole will help those splines grip better. Nothing sucks worse than a rivnut that lost its grip, you gotta drill that puppy out. Hexagonal rivnuts do exist that eliminate spinning entirely, but you have to make a hexagonal hole in your stuff too...not something most people can do at home. However you go about it, rivnuts are super useful and you'll wonder why you didn't start using these things years ago.


Also, transfer screws can help when locating the holes in the UHMW skidplate. Or any material really, you could easily make your own removable skidplates using existing bolt holes and drilling your own sheetmetal. They're pretty handy to have around the shop.

https://www.amazon.com/LittleMachin...b6-beb8-083bcce1f8e2&pd_rd_i=B09BK85WCK&psc=1

I have not heard of the transfer screws before. Seems like they would be more accurate than punches. Although for this case I think there is some leeway.

I have these punches.

https://a.co/d/76yBlMN

 

[Tex]

I have not heard of the transfer screws before. Seems like they would be more accurate than punches. Although for this case I think there is some leeway.

I have these punches.

https://a.co/d/76yBlMN

I have that same exact set too, they're more important in a shop than transfer screws for sure.

Transfer screws are best suited for when you're trying to attach a big sheet or whatever to something and you can't get to the other side to drop a punch through. Used them a lot in aviation to make replacement inspection panels with dozens of holes along the perimeter, you basically just install the transfer screws, tape the panel down to keep it in place, and then tap each location with a small hammer to mark your holes.

For the most part they're not necessary, but if you're trying to get a hole in the center of something narrow, like say a 1" skidplate support, it's kinda hard to drill through a big plate and expect to end up in the center of that support without some seriously precise measurements. With transfer screws, all you have to do in this case is put your threaded hole in the skidplate support exactly where you want it, add the transfer screws, get your skidplate in position (helps to have a few bolts on the edges already done), and then tap it. You can drill the hole through the plate without wondering if it's going to line up enough to get a screw or bolt in, and it doesn't need to be underneath the vehicle while you're drilling it either. Mark as many holes as you have transfer screws, then swap them to the unmarked holes and repeat.

You could make a set yourself, all it really takes is a few bolts and a lathe or grinder/drill to cut a point on the end of them. I've seen a guy make a ton of them out of all-thread. They probably won't be as precise, and will likely need to be sharpened up eventually, but they're cheap and will get the job done without much inaccuracy.

 

[swooshdave]

Worked out great!
Slides right off of rocks.

I see you did not use the existing holes. My M8 nutsert is just a little too loose in those holes to make me comfortable so I’ll drill new ones too.

 

[broadicustomworks]

I see you did not use the existing holes. My M8 nutsert is just a little too loose in those holes to make me comfortable so I’ll drill new ones too.

Yeah same here plus the spacing didn’t satisfy my OCD enough.

 

[swooshdave]

Well, gonna need to creatively more ground clearance.

 

[swooshdave]

Yeah same here plus the spacing didn’t satisfy my OCD enough.

The furthest forward (and outside) is giving be grief. I went between the two bolts expecting a void. Didn’t find one.

 

[Bearcat1]

The furthest forward (and outside) is giving be grief. I went between the two bolts expecting a void. Didn’t find one.

I had the same issue, no void. I ended up just using the preexisting hole. It feels sturdy even without a bolt at the end. I would be surprised to see if rip off

 

[swooshdave]

Nothing will ruin your day like a spun nutsert.

I’m going to give up and just be dainty in the rocks.

 

[Tex]

Nothing will ruin your day like a spun nutsert.

I’m going to give up and just be dainty in the rocks.

Hammer it flat and weld that puppy in.
I've had to do that a time or two because I couldn't get a grinder into a confined space to remove it.

 

[broadicustomworks]

Nothing will ruin your day like a spun nutsert.

I’m going to give up and just be dainty in the rocks.

I slightly undersized my holes by a 32nd vs the correct bit and they drew up nice and tight. Broke the rivet tool bolt off in one but it backed out easily enough, ordered a replacement insert for the next time.
This for sure sucks but yeah, it has been known to happen.
Maybe the remaining ones would be enough?
I used the heck out of mine again Saturday, passed the test with flying colors again.
Easily one of the best things I have done thus far.

 

[MReiny]

4D 2.3 wit under body protection

2D 2.3 w/o under body

Only serviced with the whole frame assembly.

RB goes to MB3Z-5005-BN

Hello!

I'm trying to find the part number for the above part-- but for the 2.7 engine. The parts website has #3 different options, all say it's the frame assembly.

Thank you!

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