Turbocharged Engine Advice - tips or tricks for maintenance?

[West1]

So I have never owned a vehicle with a turbocharged engine, only vehicles with naturally aspirated engines. I would like to know any tips or tricks for maintenance, « do’s or don’t’s », or anything I should look out for or be aware of when the Bronco arrives?

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[VelocityBrew]

Make sure you buy a sweet Greddy turbo timer.

 

[HBTFD]

The owners manual will tell you not to spray sea foam, MAF or throttle body cleaner into the intake side. Unless you plan on racing that’s about it.

 

[Mr. Nice]

So I have never owned a vehicle with a turbocharged engine, only vehicles with naturally aspirated engines. I would like to know any tips or tricks for maintenance, « do’s or don’t’s », or anything I should look out for or be aware of when the Bronco arrives?

Use a top grade synthetic oil and filter. Change it at no more than 5K miles. Like any car don't drive it hard until warmed up.

They also like premium gas...

 

[VelocityBrew]

Use a top grade synthetic oil and filter. Change it at no more than 5K miles. Like any car don't drive it hard until warmed up.

They also like premium gas...

No more than eh

 

[GoTigersGoBronco]

Make sure it gets an Italian tuneup every few weeks. You'll run into more wastegate and turbo issues by driving it like a meemaw.

 

[PowerTools]

I've had several turbo engines including the 2.3L Mustang (judge if you like) and my 2.3L Ranger. I put an oil catch can on the Mustang and the Ford Performance tune which required premium gas as it was tuned for 93 octane or higher. My Ranger only gets 87. I straight up stick with the owner's manual recommendations for fuel choice and oil changes and have not had a problem at all. Using higher octane than what the manual calls for won't yield higher power output. Maybe you want to run non-ethanol, but not me.

I do, however, agree that you want your engine to be at the proper operating temperature before you get your foot into it.

 

[Ricepuddin]

Cold weather is boost weather.

 

[_finack]

I've had several turbo engines including the 2.3L Mustang (judge if you like) and my 2.3L Ranger. I put an oil catch can on the Mustang and the Ford Performance tune which required premium gas as it was tuned for 93 octane or higher. My Ranger only gets 87. I straight up stick with the owner's manual recommendations for fuel choice and oil changes and have not had a problem at all. Using higher octane than what the manual calls for won't yield higher power output. Maybe you want to run non-ethanol, but not me.

I haven't read the Bronco owner's manual, but the manual for my MKZ with 2.0L EcoBoost says that it accepts 87 octane but to use 93 octane for maximum performance.

Edit: It doesn't exactly say that, but I was close.

 

[Headsong]

The important thing I've been told by a mechanic friend who has owned turbos, is that you don't want to spin them up too quickly nor put them away hot. So let your vehicle warm up a bit before you jump on it, and if you've been running hot let it cool down a bit before you shut it down. That'll keep the turbos running for a long long time and be covered under warranty if they do go bad.

 

[KABQ]

So I have never owned a vehicle with a turbocharged engine, only vehicles with naturally aspirated engines. I would like to know any tips or tricks for maintenance, « do’s or don’t’s », or anything I should look out for or be aware of when the Bronco arrives?

Turbos get incredibly hot, and oil can "coke" inside the turbo, essentially stickifying the guts. Use full synthetic oil and change it regularly (more frequently than called for). I would not recommend no more than 4-5k miles. 9k mile synthetic oils exist, but don't approach that with a turbo engine.

Also, use premium fuel. The ECU can adapt to different octane levels, but it does this by detecting knock/pre-ignition. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, alerting the knock sensor, causing the ECU to retard timing to prevent damage. This retardation in timing protects the engine, but decreases power. Pre-ignition causes increased stress on internal components, especially the connecting rods. While the ECU can accommodate for this, the added stress exists if even for just a few cycles. If you plan on keeping your Bronco for 200k miles or beyond, these stressors can significantly decrease the life of the engine.

I've been following this site for months, but this is my first post here. I've been incredibly reluctant to post anything because this community tends to absolutely destroy new posters. I have my flame suit on, and expect the worst. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, but I'm sure shitposters will disagree with whatever I say, like they've done with so many others. My goal is simply to offer advice on something I'm actually qualified to answer.

 

[Bronc-O]

I've had about a half dozen and change the oil when the oil life light comes on, nothing else. Never had any issues.

 

[Bronc-O]

I've been following this site for months, but this is my first post here. I've been incredibly reluctant to post anything because this community tends to absolutely destroy new posters. I have my flame suit on, and expect the worst. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, but I'm sure shitposters will disagree with whatever I say, like they've done with so many others. My goal is simply to offer advice on something I'm actually qualified to answer.

Don't be afraid. Look at my post count and I still get slammed. Some real winner jumped all over me a few days ago because I asked a question as food for thought and he went on about things I didn't even ask. It happens, hang tight.

 

[Headsong]

Turbos get incredibly hot, and oil can "coke" inside the turbo, essentially stickifying the guts. Use full synthetic oil and change it regularly (more frequently than called for). I would not recommend no more than 4-5k miles. 9k mile synthetic oils exist, but don't approach that with a turbo engine.

Also, use premium fuel. The ECU can adapt to different octane levels, but it does this by detecting knock/pre-ignition. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, alerting the knock sensor, causing the ECU to retard timing to prevent damage. This retardation in timing protects the engine, but decreases power. Pre-ignition causes increased stress on internal components, especially the connecting rods. While the ECU can accommodate for this, the added stress exists if even for just a few cycles. If you plan on keeping your Bronco for 200k miles or beyond, these stressors can significantly decrease the life of the engine.

I've been following this site for months, but this is my first post here. I've been incredibly reluctant to post anything because this community tends to absolutely destroy new posters. I have my flame suit on, and expect the worst. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, but I'm sure shitposters will disagree with whatever I say, like they've done with so many others. My goal is simply to offer advice on something I'm actually qualified to answer.

Well, I bookmarked you!

 

[Rick Astley]

@West1: It would have been helpful if you posted which of the engines you're going with as they have different needs for other things.

Turbos get incredibly hot, and oil can "coke" inside the turbo, essentially stickifying the guts. Use full synthetic oil and change it regularly (more frequently than called for). I would not recommend no more than 4-5k miles. 9k mile synthetic oils exist, but don't approach that with a turbo engine.

Also, use premium fuel. The ECU can adapt to different octane levels, but it does this by detecting knock/pre-ignition. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, alerting the knock sensor, causing the ECU to retard timing to prevent damage. This retardation in timing protects the engine, but decreases power. Pre-ignition causes increased stress on internal components, especially the connecting rods. While the ECU can accommodate for this, the added stress exists if even for just a few cycles. If you plan on keeping your Bronco for 200k miles or beyond, these stressors can significantly decrease the life of the engine.

I've been following this site for months, but this is my first post here. I've been incredibly reluctant to post anything because this community tends to absolutely destroy new posters. I have my flame suit on, and expect the worst. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, but I'm sure shitposters will disagree with whatever I say, like they've done with so many others. My goal is simply to offer advice on something I'm actually qualified to answer.

Actually, and i'm usually one of the more obnoxious people on here, your post is great!

The only thing I'd add is to augment your general statement about oil life of turbocharged applications with some further information since we, as a community, don't know the wear characteristics for this specific engine (i'm guessing similiar to Ranger, but there are engine changes on the 2.3)

Points to add:

• You don't know how your oil and engine is wearing unless you have a controlled environment ANDtesting.
  • This will mean planning on your first 3 oil changes using the same oil brand/line/weight plus the same filter (volume discount, stock up!)
  • There's no point in testing the oil that was in the engine upon delivery. Run that for 500 miles and do an oil change.
  • Excluding your factory oil, you're going to need to send each of those thee oil samples to Blackstone labs for independent testing as you "dial in" your oil change interval.
    • https://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests/standard-analysis/
      • Anecdotally speaking, it took 5 oil changes on my DD/short-track Evo9 to determine I could run my specific oil for approximately 8,000 miles (counting each track day as ~500 miles of those 8K) before it would chemically start to break down in wear characteristics.
        
• And on the topic of oil, @KABQ is absolutely right, plan on a full synthetic motor oil. What i'll add is that zinc is a very important part of any oil used in turbocharged applications. High-zinc content oil is certainly harder to find and generally a small price premium. You'll want to be targeting specifically high-zinc oils here.
  • Some people believe that turbocharged cars should follow the wisdom of flat-tappet rollers and push-rods, in that the shaft of the turbo is an "extreme wear" component and needs to be the focal point of your oil decision making.
    • Some examples of oil suitable for that, if you follow that logic:
      • https://www.valvoline.com/our-produ...MI09zhyd228gIVkR-tBh11lABOEAAYASAAEgK_cPD_BwE
      • https://www.amsoil.com/p/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-zrt/
      • Personally I run this in our 2019 Ranger but we're still dialing in the change interval, it won't be 12K miles!
        • https://www.amsoil.com/p/xl-0w-20-synthetic-motor-oil-xlz/?code=XLZQT-EA

That's all I have to add that's different from what most posted.

FYI: I'm going with the 2.3 in Bronco and will have an oil catch can deliverer once I get my VIN, it will be installed before the engine hits 200 miles.

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