'Ultimate Stereo Upgrade' Thread

pjmezz13

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B6G Team,

No offense to all those who have just swapped speakers in their Broncos, but can we please get an 'Ultimate Stereo Upgrade' thread going? Let's say the prerequisite is at least one aftermarket amplifier installed. I would love to see some of the more extensive sound systems all in one place.

Thanks!


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pjmezz13

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To start, I'm considering an AudioControl Amp with built-in DSP, possibly a 5 channel. I like the idea of signal summing and then using the DSP to control crossovers, but am also considering passive crossovers for the front channels. Also, considering some discrete options that can be tucked under seats or trim pannels, possibly even IPv6 marine types.
 

22OBX

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I have Alpine S S-40’s ready to go in. Plan to use some existing Kicker 10 subs I already had laying around. Also have Audio Control LC7i, Kicker Key DSP amp for the front channels and Alpine 445u out back. Still toying with final design and thinking through channel summing since we are hearing so many different reports of frequency challenges.
 

cmcbronco

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I replaced all 4” with kicker KS series with bass blockers up front. Added a sub using the factory enclosure that I added to my base. Kicker 8” shallow mount with kicker key 500.1 amp. Sounds awesome now!

309E2C26-7A4E-4EC1-B938-6150503EA79D.jpeg
 

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zombie

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Well I've posted this in just about every other thread on stereos, so what's one more?

I spent around $1200 CAD (which is less than a grand in "real" money) for the following:

6.5" Kick panel:
Kenwood KFC-1696PS $100 CAD
Metra 72-5602 (factory harness adaptors) $17 CAD
Metra 8256-05 (adaptor to make 6.5 speakers fit into the factory mounting spot) $35 CAD

4" Front and rears:
Sound Ordnance™ P-40B (x2) $80 CAD
Metra 72-5600 (factory harness adaptors, not a 100% match but work perfectly) (x2) $40 CAD

Subwoofer:
Rockford Fosgate R1-1X12 12-Inch 400 Watt Single Loaded Enclosure $276 CAD

Amplifier:
Kenwood KAC-D8105 Class D 5-Channel $516 CAD

Line audio converter (takes speaker level inputs and converts them to RCA)
DS18 AUDIO V5HL 5 Channel $120 CAD

Wiring:
EFX PA10BX Wiring Kit (10 ga amp wiring kit) $33 CAD
14 Gauge AWG 2 Conductor Speaker Wire/Cable - 100ft $19 CAD
(0.9m / 3ft) 2 RCA M/M Stereo Audio Cable (x3) $33 CAD

Total for everything I needed - $1,269 CAD = $998 USD

Clearly none of this stuff is "top shelf" audiophile quality equipment (particularly the 4" speakers, which I was actually quite surprised with) but it's noticeably better than factory. To my ear, at least, it sounds as good as I could have hoped to get from a vehicle with a soft top.


Apologies for the video being 90 degrees rotated, I assure you it doesn't affect the sound quality (lol)
 

annieVonBebop

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I didn't do this myself, but had all this done to mine:



If you're in Colorado I highly recommend that place! Sounds amazing even with the top down. The sub enclosure they built for me is reusable for other installs. So happy with it.

Also switching to Tidal has done wonders for audio quality.
 

DJ1

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To start, I'm considering an AudioControl Amp with built-in DSP, possibly a 5 channel. I like the idea of signal summing and then using the DSP to control crossovers, but am also considering passive crossovers for the front channels. Also, considering some discrete options that can be tucked under seats or trim pannels, possibly even IPv6 marine types.
Planning to do the same thing. (Once the weather warms up enough for me to spend a weekend in the garage). I will likely go with an Audio Control 5-channel DSP amp so I can control the crossovers and sum channels where needed. Like the original post in this thread, no disrespect to those who have simply swapped in better speakers and/or tried to get a full-range signal to the rear speakers. I'd like to use the functionality of a DSP to get a full-range signal that I can distribute and crossover as needed. I will find out once I can see what the factory head unit is putting out on its four channels.

Looking for ideas on how to approach the front dash and kick panel speakers. Trying to decide between running dash and kick in parallel as a single channel or split them? If I spilt them, then I will likely need to go with a 6-channel amp plus a mono amp for the sub. Ugh.
 

Mborkow31

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While I’m not planning to drop 5 figures on a huge system, I’ll be watching this thread for some info beyond the basic speaker swap upgrades. I too am looking at audio control amp with DSP built in. I will however NOT be doing any of the install myself. Despite always having after market systems in my cars, I’ve never had the courage (or expertise) to do my own install work.

I’m disappointed that there’s little to no room under the seats to do a hideaway sub, but I’ve seen some clean installs with them mounted to the side panels in the back. I do also like the earlier post utilizing the factory enclosure - something I’ll definitely discuss with the install shop.

Open question for the group - I’ve been debating whether to go with 2-way or 3-way components in the front. Haven’t seen many people go with a 3-way. Curious what everyone planning a more extensive upgrade is thinking?
 

Mustang_75_99

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Disclaimer: I love music and like it loud, BUT I am not a true audiophile like some of you all. So keep that in mind as I right this, because my “solution” to an audio problem in the Bronco might not be to the high standards of some of you.

Background: We have a Badlands with the upgraded B&O and I have swapped out all the speakers with the exception of the center channel and the sub. I did that within 3/4 weeks of ownership. This last weekend I FINALLY swapped out my 05 Mustang speakers (Shaker 500) and added amplification to my rears. (I did it in a way which I think could be a solution for Bronco owners…which I didn’t think about until I was completed.)

Bronco Problem: I know that a big complaint about the Bronco is the lackluster performance of the rear pods. Even with upgrading the speakers, not a ton of performance is gained.

Solution: (The Mustang rear speakers are weak as well) I bought a Boss 2 channel 100w (pictured) amp, which is one, very small in size and would be perfect for speaker amplification.

I also bought an item that I wasn’t aware that it existed, a Kicker line out converter (pictured). This allows you to tie in to the factory audio at the speakers and convert the output to the RCA style jacks for the amp (nothing needs to be run to the head unit) and it has a remote wire to turn on the amp. So it allows you to amplify speakers easily. All you need to “run” is a power wire and then a ground of course.

After I installed it all-it hit me that it would great for the rear pods. Small amp easy to mount, no wires to the head unit and 50 watts is just enough to do the trick in the rear pods.

I think the Bronco is gonna get the same speaker treatment.
8242FEA4-8EF9-4042-8A37-A5806F57D841.jpeg



97B30BFB-91AA-468D-B5D8-ADFAC596CBB7.jpeg
 

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5.0FordGuy

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Some good info in here, really bugs me that I can't turn my stereo up past 12 ( non B&) without it sounding like you are listening to it through a bucket of pudding. Upgrades are in the works as my budget allows and will include an amp and likely a 10" sub.
 

BroncoBub

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Disclaimer: I love music and like it loud, BUT I am not a true audiophile like some of you all. So keep that in mind as I right this, because my “solution” to an audio problem in the Bronco might not be to the high standards of some of you.

Background: We have a Badlands with the upgraded B&O and I have swapped out all the speakers with the exception of the center channel and the sub. I did that within 3/4 weeks of ownership. This last weekend I FINALLY swapped out my 05 Mustang speakers (Shaker 500) and added amplification to my rears. (I did it in a way which I think could be a solution for Bronco owners…which I didn’t think about until I was completed.)

Bronco Problem: I know that a big complaint about the Bronco is the lackluster performance of the rear pods. Even with upgrading the speakers, not a ton of performance is gained.

Solution: (The Mustang rear speakers are weak as well) I bought a Boss 2 channel 100w (pictured) amp, which is one, very small in size and would be perfect for speaker amplification.

I also bought an item that I wasn’t aware that it existed, a Kicker line out converter (pictured). This allows you to tie in to the factory audio at the speakers and convert the output to the RCA style jacks for the amp (nothing needs to be run to the head unit) and it has a remote wire to turn on the amp. So it allows you to amplify speakers easily. All you need to “run” is a power wire and then a ground of course.

After I installed it all-it hit me that it would great for the rear pods. Small amp easy to mount, no wires to the head unit and 50 watts is just enough to do the trick in the rear pods.

I think the Bronco is gonna get the same speaker treatment.
8242FEA4-8EF9-4042-8A37-A5806F57D841.jpeg



97B30BFB-91AA-468D-B5D8-ADFAC596CBB7.jpeg
Some good info in here, really bugs me that I can't turn my stereo up past 12 ( non B&) without it sounding like you are listening to it through a bucket of pudding. Upgrades are in the works as my budget allows and will include an amp and likely a 10" sub.
I disliked that clock radio stereo very much. Haha
 

Wolfeman

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Check out MTI Acoustics out of Texas - they have made tons of custom under seat boxes for trucks and now have a few things out for Bronco -

https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.html#!/Bronco-Products/c/127527773

That's right, the company that brought you the first made to order truck enclosures and A-Pillars is back with another killer creation! This time for the new Bronco platform.

-----Our MDF enclosure, featuring an industrial-grade, spray-on, textured finish. This extremely rugged high sheen coating allows for easy cleanup after your off-road adventures (or trips to Starbucks).

Features:
-Full MDF construction
1/2" with enough internal bracing to withstand a small hurricane
-3.5" Mounting depth
-0.80cu foot internal volume
-Mounts with OEM hanger points and two nutsert locations (Hardware included)
-Can be purchased standalone, or with a subwoofer (which gets you a 15% discount....ohhhhh yeah)

-----Our HDPE amp rack bolts in to three OEM spots, with our included aluminum hardware for the lower points.

With spacing on the front and back, enjoy a handy spot for your amp(s) and integration pieces or distribution blocks.

ACE5EDB4-7FC4-4B73-A9AA-A16F6AF2DB30.jpeg
1E7779D5-3084-4693-B0DF-8A1A8E217934.jpeg
C82679E5-71D3-46FA-876B-7EA4C680EB23.jpeg
 
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BadK22

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I didn't do this myself, but had all this done to mine:

If you're in Colorado I highly recommend that place! Sounds amazing even with the top down. The sub enclosure they built for me is reusable for other installs. So happy with it.

Also switching to Tidal has done wonders for audio quality.
How does it sounds with only tweeters in the dash? I'm considering this option as well but was wondering if it would be too bright. I'm just concerned the full range from the 6.5s in the kick panel won't make it up to your ears as they are firing into your shins, if that makes any sense.
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