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I am revising this post to clarify Ford is replacing the axle under warranty. The axle tube and plug weld issue is a warranty gray area and can go either way.

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Thanks OP!

*inspects rear axle more intensively/frequently*
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Austin Bronco

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Great news!
 

01tundra

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I’ve always done 60/14 bolts for driver/wheeler

I’m not touching the suspension other than at most a rack upgrade.

the hole is bottomless, and I can actually fab and do the work and have.

Same. I don't think you can use a blanket statement that a D44 can now handle 37-40's without factoring in vehicle weight. My rule has always been 35's max with a D44 for how we use our trucks.

My Tundra was pushing 6,000 lbs unloaded and topped out closer to 6,500 Lbs when loaded for a week long trail run. Even on 37's I managed to destroy a Dynatrac D60 rear axle (internals and the actual center section) and a Solid brand D44 front w/ D60 outers. It wasn't until I installed a D60 front and shaved & trussed 14-bolt rear that I quit destroying axles and this also allowed me to run 40's and beat the piss out of my truck without worry. Meanwhile we wheeled with a guy in a stripped down XJ running a D30 front and D35 rear on 37's and never broke a thing, but his rig was several thousand lbs. lighter than ours.

I believe axle strength is tested by tire diameter/weight and also overall vehicle weight.....and these Broncos are pretty damn heavy......

Now having said all of that, I wouldn't be surprised one bit to see people grenading R&P's while running 37's and wheeling hard, but shearing plug welds and spinning axle tubes is total BS in my opinion. I believe Dana has an issue here......

And anyone taking a look at your plug welds and calling it good, well, you're not looking at the business end of that weld where penetration matters......and yes, that is what she said.
 

vrtical

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Same. I don't think you can use a blanket statement that a D44 can now handle 37-40's without factoring in vehicle weight. My rule has always been 35's max with a D44 for how we use our trucks.

My Tundra was pushing 6,000 lbs unloaded and topped out closer to 6,500 Lbs when loaded for a week long trail run. Even on 37's I managed to destroy a Dynatrac D60 rear axle (internals and the actual center section) and a Solid brand D44 front w/ D60 outers. It wasn't until I installed a D60 front and shaved & trussed 14-bolt rear that I quit destroying axles and this also allowed me to run 40's and beat the piss out of my truck without worry. Meanwhile we wheeled with a guy in a stripped down XJ running a D30 front and D35 rear on 37's and never broke a thing, but his rig was several thousand lbs. lighter than ours.

I believe axle strength is tested by tire diameter/weight and also overall vehicle weight.....and these Broncos are pretty damn heavy......

Now having said all of that, I wouldn't be surprised one bit to see people grenading R&P's while running 37's and wheeling hard, but shearing plug welds and spinning axle tubes is total BS in my opinion. I believe Dana has an issue here......

And anyone taking a look at your plug welds and calling it good, well, you're not looking at the business end of that weld where penetration matters......and yes, that is what she said.
braptors are 6100 without gear and running a D50, its going to be an issue.
 

mjp2

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*snip*

Now having said all of that, I wouldn't be surprised one bit to see people grenading R&P's while running 37's and wheeling hard, but shearing plug welds and spinning axle tubes is total BS in my opinion. I believe Dana has an issue here......

And anyone taking a look at your plug welds and calling it good, well, you're not looking at the business end of that weld where penetration matters......and yes, that is what she said.
Funny you mention Dana being an issue. They were on the hook for the Tacoma frame rust issues and, as far as I know, sold their light frame manufacturing business as a result.

Not covered by the frame warranty were the collapsed engine mounts on the 2005 and early 2006 Tacomas, where the frame rails would just buckle without any rust under the weight of the v6 engine. They quietly redesigned the engine mount area for the later 2006 model year, adding an extra plate to reinforce the frame where the mounts got welded.

That was ages ago but it makes for a long track record of OEM issues in various areas.
 

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01tundra

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Funny you mention Dana being an issue. They were on the hook for the Tacoma frame rust issues and, as far as I know, sold their light frame manufacturing business as a result.

Not covered by the frame warranty were the collapsed engine mounts on the 2005 and early 2006 Tacomas, where the frame rails would just buckle without any rust under the weight of the v6 engine. They quietly redesigned the engine mount area for the later 2006 model year, adding an extra plate to reinforce the frame where the mounts got welded.

That was ages ago but it makes for a long track record of OEM issues in various areas.

Yep, that's why I plated the rear frame section of my current '03 Tacoma.

I've read about the engine mounts but haven't had any issues yet......of course I do only have 230,000 miles on mine currently :) .
 

colbert

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Lol, no it doesn’t
You must

lol, you too….
Magnuson Moss Warranty Act "LOL"
This why they changed there mind on covering "lol"
It's a defect, others unmodified have it, if 37s (widely used, available, and suggested by all, they have to show some calculations and stipulations.)
"lol"
 

0ne

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“LIFT ME, BABY!” is imprinted on the inner fender liners so Ford libeled itself and is culpable for warranty claims modified or not…within reason, case by case of course. 😏
 

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Yep, that's why I plated the rear frame section of my current '03 Tacoma.

I've read about the engine mounts but haven't had any issues yet......of course I do only have 230,000 miles on mine currently :) .
Only 230,000 miles lol.


Why the hell don't i drive a 4runner...
 

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Congrats on getting it covered under warranty! But a U60 might still be a solid investment
 

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lakesinai

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I am revising this post to clarify Ford is replacing the axle under warranty. The axle tube and plug weld issue is a warranty gray area and can go either way.

70639024399__C65F77A5-C595-483C-8CE1-4D6042384465.fullsizerender.jpeg


70639027068__4C6A585C-9B9F-4FDE-BB0C-6D9C2A4E5E62.fullsizerender.jpeg


70655521213__7795D711-D4F2-47AD-90A9-CDB3718BF363.jpeg


70639023286__5353CB02-FE1D-4EBF-BC79-7E7207A2C4CB.jpeg
As I understand, this is the 4.46 non-SAS Badlands Axle. The only model with a 4.46 axle. Is this Axle the same duty rating and housing as ths orher non-SAS Broncos like my OBX 4.27 rear locker Axle, or is the stronger, heavier duty axle housing that is used in all 4.7 SAS axles? I'm thinking that using a lighter duty axle for your build with 37" tires may be exceeding the possible . . . ?
 
OP
OP
kgolive

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As I understand, this is the 4.46 non-SAS Badlands Axle. The only model with a 4.46 axle. Is this Axle the same duty rating and housing as ths orher non-SAS Broncos like my OBX 4.27 rear locker Axle, or is the stronger, heavier duty axle housing that is used in all 4.7 SAS axles? I'm thinking that using a lighter duty axle for your build with 37" tires may be exceeding the possible . . . ?
My understanding is that it’s the same axle across the board with different gearing. I’m happy to re-gear but don’t think that will solve anything
 

lakesinai

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My understanding is that it’s the same axle across the board with different gearing. I’m happy to re-gear but don’t think that will solve anything
Im no expert, but I've been told that the SAS axle is heavier duty that the non-sas axles. I dont know which category the non-SAS Badlands falls into, just thinking out loud.
 

kodiakisland

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I have the Johnny joints on mine, and w/the coilovers unbolted the axle housing can be easily moved up, down, and articulated side to side w/no bind, almost by hand (or by hand, by a stronger fella than myself). There is no bind whatsoever

I feel the best upgrade I've done is rear links. The factory hard rubber bushings just have no give, and mine were already cracked at just a few months old.
 

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My understanding is that it’s the same axle across the board with different gearing. I’m happy to re-gear but don’t think that will solve anything

Correct. The M220 rear axle is the same all models. Squatch, BL, WT, FE, HE, all have stronger front diff, M210.
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