Updated:Fog lights added and connected to factory connector

[TX-Hans]

There are 3 links in that post. Are only 2 parts needed (the last 2 links)? How many of each?

Two male pins and two seals per connector. Thus, total of 4 of each to cover both sides. However, I'd order a few extras just in case one gets messed up when crimping them.

They go on similar to Weather Pack connectors and the Weather Pack crimper works good for these.

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[AbeFroman]

Shoulda told me you were doing that. We offer FREE pigtails to customers whom want to do precisely what you are doing

We would have included a set of pigtails to plug into your factory harness when we shipped your order

is there a link to buy these pigtails from your site?
I have the Baja designs fog lights

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

is there a link to buy these pigtails from your site?
I have the Baja designs fog lights

Baja doesn't make a pigtail, we make them on request prior to shipping out (for vehicles that had the plastic bumper from the factory... HD modular from the factory has a different pigtail we don't have yet)

 

[AbeFroman]

Baja doesn't make a pigtail, we make them on request prior to shipping out

can I pay you to make me a set?

or should I just use the set you sell for diode and add a Deutsch connector to end of my Baja harness?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

can I pay you to make me a set?

or should I just use the set you sell for diode and add a Deutsch connector to end of my Baja harness?

You could do that. I don't have the WP version setup in our system.

 

[AbeFroman]

Thanks. does this part
https://www.4x4truckleds.com/diode-dynamics-deutsch-dt-adapter-wires-h11-h8-h9-800-881-pair/

include all of these ends, or is there a place to note I need two with the H11 end?

appreciate the help!

 

[TX-Hans]

Thanks. does this part
https://www.4x4truckleds.com/diode-dynamics-deutsch-dt-adapter-wires-h11-h8-h9-800-881-pair/

include all of these ends, or is there a place to note I need two with the H11 end?

appreciate the help!

Ferris would tell you it's probably not an H11 connector for the factory fog harness. (Read further back into this thread and check out the Fog Light Switch thread).

 

[AbeFroman]

I thought it was supposed to be from the earlier posts. I’ll have to get a photo of mine and post to be sure

 

[‘21OBX]

Thanks or just put it to upfitter.

I has no upfitters. This was $650 less than adding upfitters.

 

[Cfield90]

Thanks OP, this does help breakdown the steps from OG thread. I know this thread was all about front fogs, but I don’t recall seeing a description of where the rear fog connecters were and/or type of connections…assuming same speaker connections as fronts? Didn’t see any pics either, if anyone is familiar? Also assuming there is some additional forscan enabling for rears?

 

[TX-Hans]

Thanks OP, this does help breakdown the steps from OG thread. I know this thread was all about front fogs, but I don’t recall seeing a description of where the rear fog connecters were and/or type of connections…assuming same speaker connections as fronts? Didn’t see any pics either, if anyone is familiar? Also assuming there is some additional forscan enabling for rears?

This post might provide some insight/info. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/factory-fog-light-switch.22937/post-1304625

 

[Puddle Jumper]

I did the same and you can buy the pins for that blank connector from Ballinger Motor Sports. Makes for such a clean install. Regardless of how you go about it, having that factory harness there is a real nice perk.

For someone with little experience with projects like this, how difficult was it to get the pins into the blank connector?

 

[TX-Hans]

For someone with little experience with projects like this, how difficult was it to get the pins into the blank connector?

Very easy process to do. The pins slide right in from the back side and have little barbs/tabs/wings that engage with the plastic connector housing and keep them locked in from being pulled back out. Once everything is ready and before sliding in, just make sure those little wings are bent slightly outward so they grab once inserted. Slide the pins in until the white rubber seal is just flush (or tad more) with the back end of the connector (will make sense when see it). Give a gentle pull back to make sure wings engaged. If not, check to make sure wings out enough and connector pushed far enough into connector.

There are a number of You Tube videos out there that will give you tid bits on doing the entire process., which is easy. Here are basic steps

• Find the connector blank end and remove from factory wiring on Bronco bumper
• Once removed, you'll find two rubber plugs in the end that Ford put in there to prevent water from getting in. Use a small needle nose pliers or even a pin to grab them and pull out.
• Take your pigtail leads/wires and slide on a rubber seal
• Strip about 1/4" of insulation from pigtail wires
• Use a weather pack crimping tool (like one below or anything similar) to crimp the wire to the pin and secure the rubber seal to the wire.
• Identify which part of the connector housing is for positive lead and which for negative lead and insert proper pigtail into that part of connector housing
• Do same for other wire

Buy extra male pins so you have some to practice on if you want but more importantly in case something gets messed up and need to redo it. Much easier to spend a few extra dollars and have them ready to go than pay much more to ship them in and wait for them.

Buy this little tool from Lisle. It is very helpful if you have to remove the pin from the connector housing. It has a hollow tube that slides into the connector over the pin and disengages those barbs/tabs/wings so you can slide the pin back out of the housing if needed.

Lisle 56500 Terminal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009OR906/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_42Y2RX7T23MSXMDY6903?psc=1

Here's a link to a proper crimping tool for these category of connectors. There are other similar crimping tools that will work just as well. I like this one since it does the crimp and seal all in one step.

IWISS Weather Pack Crimp Tool for AWG 24-14 Crimping Delphi APTIV Weather Pack Terminals or Metri-Pack Connectors- Crimp Terminals and Seal In ONE Cycle with Locator & Removal Extraction Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB698KV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NC33S82JA029S3V00YGE


Couple youtube vids

 

[Puddle Jumper]

Very easy process to do. The pins slide right in from the back side and have little barbs/tabs/wings that engage with the plastic connector housing and keep them locked in from being pulled back out. Once everything is ready and before sliding in, just make sure those little wings are bent slightly outward so they grab once inserted. Slide the pins in until the white rubber seal is just flush (or tad more) with the back end of the connector (will make sense when see it). Give a gentle pull back to make sure wings engaged. If not, check to make sure wings out enough and connector pushed far enough into connector.

There are a number of You Tube videos out there that will give you tid bits on doing the entire process., which is easy. Here are basic steps

• Find the connector blank end and remove from factory wiring on Bronco bumper
• Once removed, you'll find two rubber plugs in the end that Ford put in there to prevent water from getting in. Use a small needle nose pliers or even a pin to grab them and pull out.
• Take your pigtail leads/wires and slide on a rubber seal
• Strip about 1/4" of insulation from pigtail wires
• Use a weather pack crimping tool (like one below or anything similar) to crimp the wire to the pin and secure the rubber seal to the wire.
• Identify which part of the connector housing is for positive lead and which for negative lead and insert proper pigtail into that part of connector housing
• Do same for other wire

Buy extra male pins so you have some to practice on if you want but more importantly in case something gets messed up and need to redo it. Much easier to spend a few extra dollars and have them ready to go than pay much more to ship them in and wait for them.

Buy this little tool from Lisle. It is very helpful if you have to remove the pin from the connector housing. It has a hollow tube that slides into the connector over the pin and disengages those barbs/tabs/wings so you can slide the pin back out of the housing if needed.

Lisle 56500 Terminal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009OR906/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_42Y2RX7T23MSXMDY6903?psc=1

Here's a link to a proper crimping tool for these category of connectors. There are other similar crimping tools that will work just as well. I like this one since it does the crimp and seal all in one step.

IWISS Weather Pack Crimp Tool for AWG 24-14 Crimping Delphi APTIV Weather Pack Terminals or Metri-Pack Connectors- Crimp Terminals and Seal In ONE Cycle with Locator & Removal Extraction Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB698KV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NC33S82JA029S3V00YGE


Couple youtube vids

Thank you so much for all the information!

 

[Puddle Jumper]

Very easy process to do. The pins slide right in from the back side and have little barbs/tabs/wings that engage with the plastic connector housing and keep them locked in from being pulled back out. Once everything is ready and before sliding in, just make sure those little wings are bent slightly outward so they grab once inserted. Slide the pins in until the white rubber seal is just flush (or tad more) with the back end of the connector (will make sense when see it). Give a gentle pull back to make sure wings engaged. If not, check to make sure wings out enough and connector pushed far enough into connector.

There are a number of You Tube videos out there that will give you tid bits on doing the entire process., which is easy. Here are basic steps

• Find the connector blank end and remove from factory wiring on Bronco bumper
• Once removed, you'll find two rubber plugs in the end that Ford put in there to prevent water from getting in. Use a small needle nose pliers or even a pin to grab them and pull out.
• Take your pigtail leads/wires and slide on a rubber seal
• Strip about 1/4" of insulation from pigtail wires
• Use a weather pack crimping tool (like one below or anything similar) to crimp the wire to the pin and secure the rubber seal to the wire.
• Identify which part of the connector housing is for positive lead and which for negative lead and insert proper pigtail into that part of connector housing
• Do same for other wire

Buy extra male pins so you have some to practice on if you want but more importantly in case something gets messed up and need to redo it. Much easier to spend a few extra dollars and have them ready to go than pay much more to ship them in and wait for them.

Buy this little tool from Lisle. It is very helpful if you have to remove the pin from the connector housing. It has a hollow tube that slides into the connector over the pin and disengages those barbs/tabs/wings so you can slide the pin back out of the housing if needed.

Lisle 56500 Terminal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009OR906/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_42Y2RX7T23MSXMDY6903?psc=1

Here's a link to a proper crimping tool for these category of connectors. There are other similar crimping tools that will work just as well. I like this one since it does the crimp and seal all in one step.

IWISS Weather Pack Crimp Tool for AWG 24-14 Crimping Delphi APTIV Weather Pack Terminals or Metri-Pack Connectors- Crimp Terminals and Seal In ONE Cycle with Locator & Removal Extraction Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB698KV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NC33S82JA029S3V00YGE


Couple youtube vids

After tapping into the factory harness with the pins installed etc, what is left to do other than ForScan adjustments? Still need to connect +/- to battery or does this accomplish that too?

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