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redone17

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I’m getting mentally prepared to install mine. I am putting it in with a drain line and valve (similar to the one I put on my F150) so you only need to put your tray or bucket under the valve and drain it without removing anything. As you said, once it’s installed it’s staying there!

I’d recommend practicing the connections on the can side so you get familiar with how they release before you try to remove the OEM connections behind the motor.

Once I saw what it takes to access the motor connections I realized how nice it was to do on the transverse-mounted 2.0 in my Focus ST. At the time I thought that job was a PITA!

FWIW, I’ve never had Ford say anything about the UPR can I installed on my F150. You should be good.

Question: could you do the install without taking the wheel off? I have skinny arms but I don’t think I could contort them enough to reach those connectors.
The connections UPR provides and the connections on the stock hose are different. CatchCanMan posted a video explaining them. It helped a lot going back at this. Very little room in there and the locking clips mostly have to be unlatched by feel.

There is no way in hell you’ll be able to do that job with the wheel on - honestly, you have to take off the liner too. It’s in a miserable position. Their site says 30 minute installation. Perhaps if you’re a contortionist.

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BrentC

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The connections UPR provides and the connections on the stock hose are different. CatchCanMan posted a video explaining them. It helped a lot going back at this. Very little room in there and the locking clips mostly have to be unlatched by feel.

There is no way in hell you’ll be able to do that job with the wheel on - honestly, you have to take off the liner too. It’s in a miserable position. Their site says 30 minute installation. Perhaps if you’re a contortionist.

Thanks for this info. The more you know…
 

redone17

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Thanks for this info. The more you know…
Even more info from @thecatchcanman below. I suggested they mention this in their instructions. I should have realized. But, the PCV is set a bit deeper - so, I assumed that needed the extra length. Measure twice and click once. I gave it a good try removing once I realized the error - but, it’s really hard to get any sort of leverage to press the buttons on the sides of their fittings once they’re seated. I even tried their suggested push in, press buttons and then pull.


-

The hoses are different lengths. Typically, the 'dirty side hose would be longer and go to the top of the catch can, but it really doesn't matter.


Now my return/clean line has to sit up along that other hose instead of along the side of the battery and down.

Ford Bronco UPR Plug N Play Oil Catch Cans! 8B775B41-C323-4FB4-8799-614B1578A50E
 
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BrentC

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Thanks for all the tips given here, they helped a lot! I just finished the install, and thought I’d share my .02 to help the next installer(s).

1. After removing the driver’s side front wheel, take the time to remove most of the wheel well fasteners and remove it at least to the lower front connection point. Being able to see into the work area and have as much “blockage” out of the way is worth the extra time needed to remove the wheel well.

2. Study the UPR video posted above on how to work the OEM clips. The existing hose are the “blue ones” which need to be opened as shown in the video. You have to do the removal (and install of the new hose connectors) completely by feel.

3. I found it was easier to work with loose hoses (not connected to the catch can) to ease alignment for the engine and crankcase connections. Connect them per the instructions (follow UPR’s routing recommendations for the hoses through the heater lines) and then feed them upwards to the catch can.

4. I installed a drain line on my catch can. I routed in down behind the wheel well moulding and out between the front crash bar and the bumper mount. It tucks up inside the bash plate and is easily retrievable when I want to drain it. Do this routing while the wheel is off.

5. Keep your Zen - your hands are not going to like the contortions they’re needed to be in, and the hose connectors need to be aligned right and the right pressure needs to be applied for them to click in. I will say that when you get that 2nd “click” for the last hose connection, it’s almost orgasmic.

Photos attached.

7D1C34F4-2F81-4E00-99B3-0F1D362CC96F.jpeg
ABAB8F56-BF55-49E2-8251-D9EC3B04E6ED.jpeg
375B8CDA-92E4-4CA5-8C5C-EE3BBC78FEE1.jpeg
 
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redone17

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More info on the UPR fittings and hoses! Super helpful knowing that I can cut that longer hose a bit and reuse the fittings so that I can position the can where I like.

 

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redone17

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After about 700 miles (I had to replace a gasket that was missing).

Ford Bronco UPR Plug N Play Oil Catch Cans! 2C9E6951-4BA9-4F3B-911B-6DDEA6B6B3B7


After I poured out the condensation:
Ford Bronco UPR Plug N Play Oil Catch Cans! 8B270010-01BC-4E67-A18C-A027A5973384


Definitely a bit of oil in there and some debris.
 
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LethalPerformance

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After about 700 miles (I had to replace a gasket that was missing).

Ford Bronco UPR Plug N Play Oil Catch Cans! 8B270010-01BC-4E67-A18C-A027A5973384


After I poured out the condensation:
Ford Bronco UPR Plug N Play Oil Catch Cans! 8B270010-01BC-4E67-A18C-A027A5973384


Definitely a bit of oil in there and some debris.
Looks like the catch can is definitely doing it's job. Thanks for sharing!
 

NC_Pinz

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Finally getting around to finishing the install on my 2.3L. Which connection uses the longer hose?
 

redone17

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NC_Pinz

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Finished. I will say the instructions for the 2.3L either have pictures from the 2.7L install or there was a production change on the 2.3L. The original PCV line looks different from what is shown in the instructions, and the intake connection is in a different location. That confused me for about an hour.

I had to shorten the intake hose by about 10". Ultimately it works and everything is buttoned up.
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