Victory: dialed in the Kicker 200.4 and 500.1 amps with upgraded speakers and Gearshade hidden 8" sub

[SkyKing]

I had the 6-speaker setup. We all know that story.

I bought:
- 4" Kicker CS dash speakers
- 6.5" Kicker CS rear pod speakers
- Kicker Key 200.4 DSP amp
- Gearshade hidden enclosure w/8" Kicker sub and Kicker Key 500.1 amp
- Kit 19.1 Harness from Plug N Play

I had no previous experience with stereo upgrades ever. And I had never used Forscan. A lot has changed in 3 weeks.

I know that many people have this setup or something very similar and are struggling to get it all dialed in and balanced. I think I finally got there.

We all have the same problems after the install:
1. The front speakers are too bright and loud
2. The rear speakers do very little
3. Balancing the head unit, speaker amp, sub amp and DSP settings is tricky

But after many attempts, I finally have balanced everything. Soundstage is finally full, with deep base and no issues.

Even after the hardware install and monkeying around for a week I was very pleased but still feeling like the front speakers were too bright and loud, the bigger rear pods still weren't doing much at all (and fading rear made the sub volume go down), and the sub wasn't putting out as much punch as I expected, even at over 50% gain. And at volume 15, it was now crazy loud.

I had "successfully" done all the Kicker Key setup functions on both amps. There were no clipping problems.

Through some deduction and discussion with others on this forum, I suspected that my problem was that I had the gain too high on the 200.4 "Amp 1" dial, which controls the 4 front speakers (even though the Key setup functions led me to these settings). And perhaps my previous attempts I had something not quite right?

So I decided to open it up again and this time do a thorough preparation to give myself the best chances making all these Kicker Key DSP algorithms work correctly.

I got a Forscan tool and did these setting adjustments (only the bottom 3 matter for this exercise, but OMG the others are wonderful):
UPDATE: I found the Forscan details and guidance here. There is a spreadsheet that explains what to do for each of these features, and others): https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...k-sport-mode-chimes-seatbelts-and-more.28489/

1. Added Rock Crawl GOAT mode (to Wildtrak)
2. Disabled Honk/Honk door-close outside of car with engine on
3. Disabled Doo-doo-doo, doo-doo-doo, doo-doo-doo key-in ignition chime
4. Disabled driver & passenger seatbelt-off warning chime
5. Disabled door ajar chime
6. Turn Signal Volume down
7. Rear pod signal switched to: tweeter/speaker/sub
8. Removed factory EQ settings for new amp
9. Moved warning chime sounds (parking sensors etc) to come through the head unit's built-in speaker. This is critical with amplification your will have amplified warning chimes blasting through all your speakers.

Before I reran the 200.4 Key setup and DSP with pink noise, and before I redid the gain setting exercise, I followed these preparation tips:
- subwoofer disconnected
- EQ off on my phone (I hadn't done this previously)
- Speed sensitive volume off on head unit (I hadn't done this previously)
- Volume at 14
- Reset 200.4 (I hadn't done this previously)
- Windows up, inside quite garage
- Head unit fader and EQ to neutral
- gains at zero
- crossover off
- And instead of placing the microphone on the top of headrest, I placed it in the middle of the armrest (move it forward and lower may help pull the sound stage rearward. (I hadn't done this previously)

I got the victory tones from the Key DSP setup.

After that, I did the gain adjustments. The winning solution was to turn "Amp 1" dial down to near zero", and "Amp 2" dial at about 20% (this boosts rear speakers and still no clipping at high volume). It is sooo much better than my previous attempts. I listened to different song types and A/B tested the differences of the DSP settings on vs. off. With it off, it still sounds great but has a muddier midrange. I left the DSP settings on. Also, the volume knob is now at a more reasonable number for how loud it is.

I then went to the back and re-did the Key 500.1 sub amp setup processes. I ran the tests at volume 19 instead of the recommended 23. When playing the gain matching track, I was getting no warning light even at max gain. So I backed if off to 50% gain. The victory lights eventually flashed, and I did the Key 500.1 Algorithm setup. I will admit that when I A/B test this, I can't hear any difference, but I left it on anyway.

It sounds exactly how I want it!

Update to update: Started with Hi-pass crossover on the 200.4 amp off. Then at 60, and then at the recommended 80Hz and it didn't sound like I was losing anything, which I assume means it's better/safer (it still has plenty of bass coming to kick panels - you can feel the air waves hitting your pants - they couldn't do that before the amp). I have the 500.1 subwoofer Low pass at 80Hz.

I also just turned the "radio detect" button off. I still have radio signals so not sure how else this feature helps/hurts? Anyone? Bueller?

But I think I'm done! Hope this helps someone.

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[Bruno]

Love that this is not a massive box on the floor.
Pics with the cover on?

 

[SkyKing]

It will look basically OEM. I removed the storage bin and cut away the extra plastic and got this grill replacement on Etsy. It came with 3M tape on back but I put down a thick bead of shoo goo all the way around.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1469949253/ford-bronco-speaker-cover-upgrade

 

[mdube72]

I just took delivery of Gearshade’s newest 2 Dr subwoofer box designed for keeping the B&O factory amp and the Kicker L7T-8. Waiting on my amp and wiring kit but will report back after install.

 

[SkyKing]

I just took delivery of Gearshade’s newest 2 Dr subwoofer box designed for keeping the B&O factory amp and the Kicker L7T-8. Waiting on my amp and wiring kit but will report back after install.

I got mine used on ebay from someone who decided to sell their bronco and removed it. I am very impressed with the quality of the enclosure.

 

[SkyKing]

Love that this is not a massive box on the floor.
Pics with the cover on?

 

[mdube72]

I got mine used on ebay from someone who decided to sell their bronco and removed it. I am very impressed with the quality of the enclosure.

does the 8 inch round Kicker pound in the box ? Did you have the factory subwoofer before or just the base system ? I’m really looking forward to having quality bass in the Bronco. The B&O factory sub is just very boomy and bottoms out a lot over volumes of 15

 

[SkyKing]

does the 8 inch round Kicker pound in the box ? Did you have the factory subwoofer before or just the base system ? I’m really looking forward to having quality bass in the Bronco. The B&O factory sub is just very boomy and bottoms out a lot over volumes of 15

Not sure if you mean "pound in the box" as a good thing or bad. I had the 6 speaker system and bough the Plug and Play harness. My understanding is that if you have the factory sub or B&O, it can make things more complicated if you are trying to use that wiring. But I think there are harness kits for that also.

But anyway, at the way I have it set I can crank it to mid 20s or more and it all still sounds healthy (but way too loud for anyone to enjoy). Unlike the B&O setup (which has one amp for the speakers and sub), you will have dedicated amp to your sub with direct control compared to your other speakers. On some types of songs with crazy low bass, I start to worry about overloading the sub when I crank it into the mid 20s (but it's crazy loud). But I have sat in a B&O Bronco with the volume cranked and although B&O (which has amp and sub) is night and day better than the base-6-speaker system (which has no amp or sub), this new sub totally throws down as much bass as "I" would want on any song at volumes higher than I would ever listen to for fun. And just doing the 200.4 apparently makes a world of difference (after upgrading the front two dash speakers, that's the cheapest easiest way to make huge improvement).

But I think the biggest missing link I had and fixed was to make the gain higher on the rear (6.5") pods than the gain for the front speakers which should be kept near zero). Now it sounds full full full soundstage and the bass is thumping (I have yet to install the volume knob for the sub but I think I have it set where I'd want it). I feel no need to mess with the head unit tone or fade settings - it sounds fantastic and plenty of room to dial anything up or down.

 

[SkyKing]

I have the hi pass on the 200.4 off and the low pass on the sub at 80. I might try shifting the high pass on the 200.4 to 60. That way there is overlap signal to both amps between 60-80Hz. Any experts willing to weigh in on that strategy?

With the 200.4, the front speakers seem to happily handle a lot more bass than before. I am still using the stock kick panel speakers and they seem happy (I've read that they are not worth replacing and are the same speakers from the B&O system (fact check?)).

I'm a quick learner but learned everything I know about this in the past 3 weeks so... yeah.

 

[vicorjh]

And instead of placing the microphone on the top of headrest, I placed it in the middle of the armrest

This is what I ended-up going with as well.

Tuning my setup using the driver's headrest, while sounding great in that seat, left the passenger side way too bright and harsh. And, I didn't want to try a bunch of averaging. Ended up sounding great using the armrest position.

 

[BRONBO]

Thanks for the write up. I have pretty much the same set up - and I need to get mine dialed in better.

Have you had any heat issues for the 500.1 yet? Seems on really hot days, it's not happy back there. Im thinking of moving mine elsewhere.

 

[AttackGuy64]

It will look basically OEM. I removed the storage bin and cut away the extra plastic and got this grill replacement on Etsy. It came with 3M tape on back but I put down a thick bead of shoo goo all the way around.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1469949253/ford-bronco-speaker-cover-upgrade

ShooGoo for the win. Kudos to you sir, well done.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

Thanks for this post.

I have the six channel with the factory sub and a 200.4 and have been dealing with the brightness up front. In discussions with Crutchfield to do a six channel amp so I can have more control between the JL Audio C2650 6.5” woofer in the kick panel and the Audiofrog GS42 4.5” speakers in the dash. (Also more power to each since I am dividing the AMP output in half currently.)

Of course that means removing the DSP programming capabilities of the 200.4, but I think that is part of the problem. Maybe I’ll try re-running the setup with the gain at zero in front and 20% in back as you suggest first.

Forscan is tempting just to remove the stupid double honk, and give the rear channel the low end, but I don’t want to mess with that.

Some day I’ll get around to the sub.

(edit) I thought about setting the key setup mic on a tripod at ear level between the driver a passenger seat so maybe I’ll do that too.

 

[SkyKing]

Thanks for the write up. I have pretty much the same set up - and I need to get mine dialed in better.

Have you had any heat issues for the 500.1 yet? Seems on really hot days, it's not happy back there. Im thinking of moving mine elsewhere.

I am not "aware" of any heat problems but I have not been checking for this either.

 

[SkyKing]

Thanks for this post.

I have the six channel with the factory sub and a 200.4 and have been dealing with the brightness up front. In discussions with Crutchfield to do a six channel amp so I can have more control between the JL Audio C2650 6.5” woofer in the kick panel and the Audiofrog GS42 4.5” speakers in the dash. (Also more power to each since I am dividing the AMP output in half currently.)

Of course that means removing the DSP programming capabilities of the 200.4, but I think that is part of the problem. Maybe I’ll try re-running the setup with the gain at zero in front and 20% in back as you suggest first.

Forscan is tempting just to remove the stupid double honk, and give the rear channel the low end, but I don’t want to mess with that.

Some day I’ll get around to the sub.

(edit) I thought about setting the key setup mic on a tripod at ear level between the driver a passenger seat so maybe I’ll do that too.

I would definitely try adjusting the gain a but toward the rears just to the point to where you feel the soundstage move back and see how you feel. I did upgrade the rear pods to 6.5.

If you don't want to mess with Forscan, your dealer can probably do it. 2 years ago, my dealer did mine to pass the signal to the rears (it is arguable how much difference it made). He charged me $20.

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